Starting Issues

[barefootwestie]

Timing mark. White is TDC mark, Silver mark to right is 7.5 degrees according to specs for distributor, but havent been using that mark.

And Scale

_________________
My Bus Restoration Blog
https://myvolkswagenbus.com/

1973 Westfalia
"Getting better....one repair at a time."

Other VW's owned through the years, in no particular order:
'67 Beetle,
'67 Ghia Hardtop,
'72 Ghia Convertible,
'72 Westfalia

[barefootwestie]

[barefootwestie]

I believe I have it. I took your advice at shot for setting it at 3500 RPMs instead of what I had seen at 2800-3000. And it seems to be working good. I really didn't have to adjust it much from my static timing. I'll let her cool down and hopefully she'll start when she's cold. Not out of the woods yet, but thanks for your advice.
_________________
My Bus Restoration Blog
https://myvolkswagenbus.com/

1973 Westfalia
"Getting better....one repair at a time."

Other VW's owned through the years, in no particular order:
'67 Beetle,
'67 Ghia Hardtop,
'72 Ghia Convertible,
'72 Westfalia

[barefootwestie]

Everything seems to be working like a champ. Just tweaked my carb a little and rechecked the timing and took her out for a drive. She drove great and the slight hesitation I had suffered previously during shift change and sitting still has disappeared. Setting the timing at 3500 rpm's instead of the 2800-3000 is what did it.

Thanks to Stucco, BusDaddy, SGKent and WildThings. Sure do appreciate your help!
_________________
My Bus Restoration Blog
https://myvolkswagenbus.com/

1973 Westfalia
"Getting better....one repair at a time."

Other VW's owned through the years, in no particular order:
'67 Beetle,
'67 Ghia Hardtop,
'72 Ghia Convertible,
'72 Westfalia

[Wildthings]

You really don't want to be using a tach when setting your timing at full mechanical advance. Just rev the engine up with the light aimed at the timing marks and when it quits advancing any more with higher revs then you are there. Some distributor actually call more as high as 3800 rpms, but the exact rpm doesn't matter, you just need to rev it high enough so the mark quits moving.

You can go back and check the engine statically once you are through and see where it sits, and then recheck it statically every 2000 miles or so to see if it is changing. If the static timing does change then you know something may be amiss and further investigation is warranted. With a properly lubed distributor, properly set points and plugs, and a good coil, condenser, and wires the timing should easily go 10,000 miles with little or no variance.