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DC wouldn't move, now it does!
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peecee69
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 4:29 pm    Post subject: DC wouldn't move, now it does! Reply with quote

t I need to get my 66 doublecab onto a trailer for some work (well, more than some!) and it will not budge more than an inch or two. I think the transmission is stuck in gear, and I really am at my wits end trying to get the engine (and transmission) out. Everything is so rusted I have been seriously considering just cutting out the whole back side.

I have disconnected everything I can, and thought it was out of gear, but I guess not. How can I either engage the clutch or get it out of gear?

Here's a picture of the carnage through the top of the driver's side of the bed.

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Last edited by peecee69 on Mon Oct 01, 2012 6:22 am; edited 1 time in total
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't see an engine so it won't matter if it's in gear or not, I assume you've removed the drums and freed up the brakes?
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peecee69
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
I don't see an engine so it won't matter if it's in gear or not, I assume you've removed the drums and freed up the brakes?


The engine is still in - just to the right of the picture. Bolts are frozen even though I've been coating them in PB Blaster for the last two weeks.

Yes, I removed the rear brakes and backing plates. The stub axles spin freely independent, but will not move once on the ground. The only thing on the stubs now are the drums themselves without any brake "guts."
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use hammer and chisel to split the nuts that are holding the engine in place. Do lower nuts first!! Wear safety goggles and get a tetnus shot.
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peecee69
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tetnus shot up to date! Will try the hammer and chisel method tomorrow.
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cru62
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You may be able to disengage the clutch by putting a pipe on the arm after either cutting the cable or taking off the nut (I know, Ha-Ha, good luck!). While PB Blaster has worked wonders on some of my stuff, the best rust buster in my experience is ATF mixed 50/50 with acetone. You have to shake it up all the time while using it as it will seperate (like oil and water), but it works a treat.
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cru62 wrote:
You may be able to disengage the clutch by putting a pipe on the arm after either cutting the cable or taking off the nut (I know, Ha-Ha, good luck!).


Hopefully that will work, but more than likely it will require removing the starter and undoing the pressure plate bolts one by one. That is if the engine can be turned over....

Or:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Might try the 50/50% mixture in the engine to get it moving. Pour it into the intake and let it percolate down to the sump.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Releasing the clutch may prove futile if it's that krispy, the friction plate may be stuck to the flywheel. I'd concentrate on engine removal or grabbing the shift shaft with vice grips and moving it in and out all 3 clicks until you find the middle of the travel (neutral).


The big power tools look like alot of fun but you risk leaving the ass of the bus behind on the ground if it doesn't break loose Razz
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vice-grips on the shift rod and a hammer to neutral?
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 9:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BarryL wrote:
Vice-grips on the shift rod and a hammer to neutral?
That's what I would do.
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peecee69
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 5:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BarryL wrote:
Vice-grips on the shift rod and a hammer to neutral?


Hammer towards the front of the bus? I'm guessing there should be roughly three positions from forward most position to rear most position (2nd & 4th - forward, neutral - middle, 1st & 3rd - rear), correct?
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dasbusking
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 5:54 am    Post subject: Re.. Stuck Reply with quote

It looks like He spun the back wheels on that giant tractor to get that engine separated... wow

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

peecee69 wrote:
BarryL wrote:
Vice-grips on the shift rod and a hammer to neutral?


Hammer towards the front of the bus? I'm guessing there should be roughly three positions from forward most position to rear most position (2nd & 4th - forward, neutral - middle, 1st & 3rd - rear), correct?


Correct except it depends on what it's stuck in. If you can access the shifter rod where it comes out near the rear coupler it might be better. Don't bung up the part that actually slides inside the trans.
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peecee69
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No luck with any method. Headed to harbor freight. I'm going to buy some moving dollies and put the rear tires on those things. If I can't get the rear tires to move, I'll just work with that.
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peecee69
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Persistence pays off! I have been coating the shift rod with PB Blaster liberally for the last week or so, and this evening I was finally able to get the transmission into neutral! I am able to move the bus back and forth without issue. Now I need to move it out from under my deck (got wheel dollies on order) and onto a trailer.
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CBRUNO
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try KROIL , it beats PB Blaster.
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quartermilecamel
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2012 11:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Best place to get kroil is? Not sure they can ship aerosol.
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 10:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

They do ship aerosol UPS. Get it directly from the manufacturer. They sent me a can of regular Kroil plus an unexpected, free, large can of Aerokroil.
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Dave24
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kroil is King!. Smile
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jtauxe Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We used AeroKroil when I worked in a machine shop. Wonderful stuff.
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