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Compression tester stuck - HELP!
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BusBerd
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:02 pm    Post subject: Compression tester stuck - HELP! Reply with quote

The bus has been losing power under a load lately, so I took out the spark plugs to look at them. #2 cylinder plug was all oily. not good. So I decided to do a compression test. got zero compression. But before I can go on to try to fix that issue, the little end adaptor thing on the end of my compression tester will not unscrew from the spark plug hole. I didn't even know there was an adaptor on it and that it could be unscrewed from the end. So when I try to unscrew the compression tester out of the spark plug hole, it leaves the adaptor in the hole and I only get half the compression tester out.
Is there someway to daub some glue (crazy glue?) on the end of the compression tester before i screw it into that adaptor. I don't care if I ruin the compression tester at this point. I just want to get that adaptor out of there and put the spark plug back in.
What will fuse the metals of the threads together strong enough for me to unscrew this adaptor?
The engine was hot when I screwed it in. Will it loosen when it cools down??
Ugh...
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Green70
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You sure it doesn't have a hex head on the adapter? Mine has an adapter but the adapter allows you to get a deep socket or a wrench on it in this very case.

Short of that, JBweld?
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BusBerd
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Green70 wrote:
You sure it doesn't have a hex head on the adapter? Mine has an adapter but the adapter allows you to get a deep socket or a wrench on it in this very case.

Short of that, JBweld?


It doesn't look like it has a hex head on it. Of course, I can't remember now exactly what the adaptor looked like. But that would rock if I could just use a socket wrench.
JBweld! of course! I forgot about that stuff. that will be my back up. that should work. At least I am assuming it will work on the type of metal tools are made of.
thanks!
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poptop tom
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 4:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you reach in with some needle nose pliers and twist it out?
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my59
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 6:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you want to keep the adapter I'd look for a left hand threaded bolt
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 7:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have a look at the valve adjustment for that cylinder, unless you find something really obvious you'll be able to access that adaptor easily fairly soon because 0 compression means the head has to come off.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 7:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Have a look at the valve adjustment for that cylinder, unless you find something really obvious you'll be able to access that adaptor easily fairly soon because 0 compression means the head has to come off.


2x, but if there is no hex to grab with a wrench he may still need to use something like JB Weld or high strength loctite to lock the pieces of the adapter together.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 7:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
Have a look at the valve adjustment for that cylinder, unless you find something really obvious you'll be able to access that adaptor easily fairly soon because 0 compression means the head has to come off.


2x, but if there is no hex to grab with a wrench he may still need to use something like JB Weld or high strength loctite to lock the pieces of the adapter together.

But if it's one of those testers with the rubber hose he may end up with even more things stuck in his engine since he screwed it in hot and it has since cooled.

A cheap basin wrench from Home depot may be worth a try but there may not be enough room around the part:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Or maybe an internal pipe wrench?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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mrp2007
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 7:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine too has a 6 point style head for the adaptor. What about using some Loctite on the threads then putting it back in to let it set?
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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BusBerd
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

UPDATE: I got it out. I actually used some crazy glue that I had lying around the house. (didn't have any JBWeld on hand). put some glue on the threads and screwed it in. waited a few hours and then coaxed it out - adaptor and all.

Once it was out I could see that it did indeed have a hex head on it. I tried using a socket to get it out before the glue but I guess I was not using the right size socket. it is 18mm.

I want to double check the compression in that cylinder but I am a bit tentative about screwing that back in. I am worried that it went in at an angle or something and ruined the threads.

I think the engine is going to have to come out.

I am thinking it is either worn piston rings or some valve issue. THe last rebuild was not a great one.
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Green70
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BusBerd wrote:
UPDATE: I got it out. I actually used some crazy glue that I had lying around the house. (didn't have any JBWeld on hand). put some glue on the threads and screwed it in. waited a few hours and then coaxed it out - adaptor and all.

Once it was out I could see that it did indeed have a hex head on it. I tried using a socket to get it out before the glue but I guess I was not using the right size socket. it is 18mm.

I want to double check the compression in that cylinder but I am a bit tentative about screwing that back in. I am worried that it went in at an angle or something and ruined the threads.

I think the engine is going to have to come out.

I am thinking it is either worn piston rings or some valve issue. THe last rebuild was not a great one.


Very carefully screw the spark plug back in BY HAND or use a piece a fuel hose slipped over the tip to help turn it as you reinstall. Do not use a wrench or a socket to put it back in until you completely verify that its in straight.

You can get spark plug thread chasers to clean up buggered up threads. Coat them in sticky grease before using to catch any debris cut loose.

If all is well, screw the tester back in (make sure you 18mm socket fits it first!!!) and check compression again. Could be valves or rings or...
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Have a look at the valve adjustment for that cylinder, unless you find something really obvious you'll be able to access that adaptor easily fairly soon because 0 compression means the head has to come off.

Did you pay attention to what BD was getting at? Check the valve adjustment and the rocker condition carefully. There are things in the valve train that can hinder the proper valve operation that might be correctable without removing the head. Rotate the engine thru a couple cycles and observe the valve action of the dead cylinder. Check for anything obvious such as loose rocker shaft studs, bad valve spring or retainer keeper and even cam lift. With the rocker off, lay a straight edge across the the valve ends (retainers) and see if all valves protrude the same distance out of the head.
It's best to know all you can about it now before you tear it down. Bad situation would be to pull a head and not find the real problem or anything obviously wrong.
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ccpalmer
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 12:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Desertbusman wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
Have a look at the valve adjustment for that cylinder, unless you find something really obvious you'll be able to access that adaptor easily fairly soon because 0 compression means the head has to come off.

Did you pay attention to what BD was getting at? Check the valve adjustment and the rocker condition carefully. There are things in the valve train that can hinder the proper valve operation that might be correctable without removing the head. Rotate the engine thru a couple cycles and observe the valve action of the dead cylinder. Check for anything obvious such as loose rocker shaft studs, bad valve spring or retainer keeper and even cam lift. With the rocker off, lay a straight edge across the the valve ends (retainers) and see if all valves protrude the same distance out of the head.
It's best to know all you can about it now before you tear it down. Bad situation would be to pull a head and not find the real problem or anything obviously wrong.


That's what I was thinking... why take the compression tester out? Head's coming off anyway...
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