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BusBerd Samba Member
Joined: November 19, 2005 Posts: 834 Location: Minneapolis, MN
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Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:02 pm Post subject: Compression tester stuck - HELP! |
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The bus has been losing power under a load lately, so I took out the spark plugs to look at them. #2 cylinder plug was all oily. not good. So I decided to do a compression test. got zero compression. But before I can go on to try to fix that issue, the little end adaptor thing on the end of my compression tester will not unscrew from the spark plug hole. I didn't even know there was an adaptor on it and that it could be unscrewed from the end. So when I try to unscrew the compression tester out of the spark plug hole, it leaves the adaptor in the hole and I only get half the compression tester out.
Is there someway to daub some glue (crazy glue?) on the end of the compression tester before i screw it into that adaptor. I don't care if I ruin the compression tester at this point. I just want to get that adaptor out of there and put the spark plug back in.
What will fuse the metals of the threads together strong enough for me to unscrew this adaptor?
The engine was hot when I screwed it in. Will it loosen when it cools down??
Ugh... _________________ "The large print giveth and the small print taketh away."
1977 Westfalia Camper Bus 2.0L Fuel Injected Engine, Manual Transmission |
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Green70 Samba Member
Joined: January 23, 2012 Posts: 186 Location: Out in the Garage
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Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:16 pm Post subject: |
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You sure it doesn't have a hex head on the adapter? Mine has an adapter but the adapter allows you to get a deep socket or a wrench on it in this very case.
Short of that, JBweld? |
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BusBerd Samba Member
Joined: November 19, 2005 Posts: 834 Location: Minneapolis, MN
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Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:21 pm Post subject: |
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Green70 wrote: |
You sure it doesn't have a hex head on the adapter? Mine has an adapter but the adapter allows you to get a deep socket or a wrench on it in this very case.
Short of that, JBweld? |
It doesn't look like it has a hex head on it. Of course, I can't remember now exactly what the adaptor looked like. But that would rock if I could just use a socket wrench.
JBweld! of course! I forgot about that stuff. that will be my back up. that should work. At least I am assuming it will work on the type of metal tools are made of.
thanks! _________________ "The large print giveth and the small print taketh away."
1977 Westfalia Camper Bus 2.0L Fuel Injected Engine, Manual Transmission |
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poptop tom Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2004 Posts: 1607 Location: The Hoosier State
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Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 4:47 am Post subject: |
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Can you reach in with some needle nose pliers and twist it out? _________________ '76 Deluxe Campmobile |
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my59 Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2003 Posts: 3793 Location: connecting the dots
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Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 6:19 am Post subject: |
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If you want to keep the adapter I'd look for a left hand threaded bolt _________________ my59: Well son, my grandfather died before I got to drive it, so does that answer your question?
our79: sunroof bus w/camper interior and 2.0 FI
Other:'12 Jetta, '77 Benz 300D, and a 74 MG Midget. |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51153 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 7:00 am Post subject: |
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Have a look at the valve adjustment for that cylinder, unless you find something really obvious you'll be able to access that adaptor easily fairly soon because 0 compression means the head has to come off. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50352
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Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 7:17 am Post subject: |
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busdaddy wrote: |
Have a look at the valve adjustment for that cylinder, unless you find something really obvious you'll be able to access that adaptor easily fairly soon because 0 compression means the head has to come off. |
2x, but if there is no hex to grab with a wrench he may still need to use something like JB Weld or high strength loctite to lock the pieces of the adapter together. |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51153 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 7:38 am Post subject: |
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Wildthings wrote: |
busdaddy wrote: |
Have a look at the valve adjustment for that cylinder, unless you find something really obvious you'll be able to access that adaptor easily fairly soon because 0 compression means the head has to come off. |
2x, but if there is no hex to grab with a wrench he may still need to use something like JB Weld or high strength loctite to lock the pieces of the adapter together. |
But if it's one of those testers with the rubber hose he may end up with even more things stuck in his engine since he screwed it in hot and it has since cooled.
A cheap basin wrench from Home depot may be worth a try but there may not be enough room around the part:
Or maybe an internal pipe wrench?
_________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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mrp2007 Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2007 Posts: 47 Location: Newport, VT
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Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 7:51 am Post subject: |
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Mine too has a 6 point style head for the adaptor. What about using some Loctite on the threads then putting it back in to let it set? |
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SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 8:10 am Post subject: |
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_________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
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BusBerd Samba Member
Joined: November 19, 2005 Posts: 834 Location: Minneapolis, MN
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Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 12:03 pm Post subject: |
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UPDATE: I got it out. I actually used some crazy glue that I had lying around the house. (didn't have any JBWeld on hand). put some glue on the threads and screwed it in. waited a few hours and then coaxed it out - adaptor and all.
Once it was out I could see that it did indeed have a hex head on it. I tried using a socket to get it out before the glue but I guess I was not using the right size socket. it is 18mm.
I want to double check the compression in that cylinder but I am a bit tentative about screwing that back in. I am worried that it went in at an angle or something and ruined the threads.
I think the engine is going to have to come out.
I am thinking it is either worn piston rings or some valve issue. THe last rebuild was not a great one. _________________ "The large print giveth and the small print taketh away."
1977 Westfalia Camper Bus 2.0L Fuel Injected Engine, Manual Transmission |
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Green70 Samba Member
Joined: January 23, 2012 Posts: 186 Location: Out in the Garage
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Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 12:40 pm Post subject: |
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BusBerd wrote: |
UPDATE: I got it out. I actually used some crazy glue that I had lying around the house. (didn't have any JBWeld on hand). put some glue on the threads and screwed it in. waited a few hours and then coaxed it out - adaptor and all.
Once it was out I could see that it did indeed have a hex head on it. I tried using a socket to get it out before the glue but I guess I was not using the right size socket. it is 18mm.
I want to double check the compression in that cylinder but I am a bit tentative about screwing that back in. I am worried that it went in at an angle or something and ruined the threads.
I think the engine is going to have to come out.
I am thinking it is either worn piston rings or some valve issue. THe last rebuild was not a great one. |
Very carefully screw the spark plug back in BY HAND or use a piece a fuel hose slipped over the tip to help turn it as you reinstall. Do not use a wrench or a socket to put it back in until you completely verify that its in straight.
You can get spark plug thread chasers to clean up buggered up threads. Coat them in sticky grease before using to catch any debris cut loose.
If all is well, screw the tester back in (make sure you 18mm socket fits it first!!!) and check compression again. Could be valves or rings or... |
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Desertbusman Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2005 Posts: 14655 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:11 pm Post subject: |
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busdaddy wrote: |
Have a look at the valve adjustment for that cylinder, unless you find something really obvious you'll be able to access that adaptor easily fairly soon because 0 compression means the head has to come off. |
Did you pay attention to what BD was getting at? Check the valve adjustment and the rocker condition carefully. There are things in the valve train that can hinder the proper valve operation that might be correctable without removing the head. Rotate the engine thru a couple cycles and observe the valve action of the dead cylinder. Check for anything obvious such as loose rocker shaft studs, bad valve spring or retainer keeper and even cam lift. With the rocker off, lay a straight edge across the the valve ends (retainers) and see if all valves protrude the same distance out of the head.
It's best to know all you can about it now before you tear it down. Bad situation would be to pull a head and not find the real problem or anything obviously wrong. _________________ 71 Superbug
71 Westy |
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ccpalmer Samba Member
Joined: September 17, 2006 Posts: 3850 Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
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Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 12:52 am Post subject: |
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Desertbusman wrote: |
busdaddy wrote: |
Have a look at the valve adjustment for that cylinder, unless you find something really obvious you'll be able to access that adaptor easily fairly soon because 0 compression means the head has to come off. |
Did you pay attention to what BD was getting at? Check the valve adjustment and the rocker condition carefully. There are things in the valve train that can hinder the proper valve operation that might be correctable without removing the head. Rotate the engine thru a couple cycles and observe the valve action of the dead cylinder. Check for anything obvious such as loose rocker shaft studs, bad valve spring or retainer keeper and even cam lift. With the rocker off, lay a straight edge across the the valve ends (retainers) and see if all valves protrude the same distance out of the head.
It's best to know all you can about it now before you tear it down. Bad situation would be to pull a head and not find the real problem or anything obviously wrong. |
That's what I was thinking... why take the compression tester out? Head's coming off anyway... _________________ '71 Westy |
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