How to clean crankcase, transmission case and brake drums?

[William Crowell]

I've got my engine and transmission out of my car, and have already cleaned all the grease of of them with solvent, but am left with a brown film that I haven't been able to remove. The brown film is even thicker on the brake drums. Do you guys recognize what I'm talking about? Is it dirt, or what? And how can I remove it?

I tried oven cleaner on the brake drums, but it didn't seem to do very much.

I don't want to disassemble the engine or transmission, so I wouldn't want to media blast them. I might sandblast the drums, though. Whatsay?

Thanks.

[Unobtanium-inc]

Wire brush and mineral spirits, wear thick gloves and glasses.

[fcampbell356]

Use lot's of elbow grease, rub hard.

[Unobtanium-inc]

Frank knows, he has probably cleaned a few more than me.

[Pat KG]

Carb cleaner works.
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Pat Daily

74 Ghia Cabriolet (bought it in 74 new)
63 356 B Coupe
2005 BMW 325i
2008 BMW 328 convertible
2007 Dodge Ram Hemi
2005 Honda Odyssey

[William Crowell]

Thanks again, guys. I think I'll try carb cleaner and a brass wire brush.

[dawerks]

I use 'concrete etch cleaner' mixed with water. The stuff is AWESOME! It obliterates grease (and rust to a degree). Plus it's cheap.

But you have to be careful with it, it's pretty powerful stuff.
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"There is only one sin; disconnection from self."

[gordon maltby]

William, I think you'd be amazed at how effective soda blasting is on that type of job. It will remove almost any stain and have little or no effect on the surface. Residue is washed off with water. You can buy a soda blast attachment for your bead blaster from Scat (TP Tools) or have it done by a shop. I would not mess with nasty chemicals before I try it.

Gordon

[bbspdstr]

Be very careful with the chemistry, as aluminum or cast light metals can turn a dark gray if the wrong 2 come together.

The safest is the soda blasting, as Gordon recommends. If rinsed well, it doesn't clog any openings, including carb bodies. It's environmentally friendly, too.

Other than that, I have used paint stripper, especially on brake drums. Let it do the work and occasionally keep it wet and agitated gently, then rinse. An old trick is then steel wool and WD40, easiest with no studs, massaged into the metal for a nice sheen, not shine. Wipe off and they are preserved and looking natural.

One thing to remember is to not open pores of a casting with too aggressive an approach. You want to keep the 'look' of a new cast or forged part, not rough or stained or corroded, as an 'opened' surface will allow.

Another idea is to use an automotive machine shop that has a parts 'dishwasher' that uses hot high-pressure water and detergent to clean major parts. A nominal charge and let THAT do the work. Basically, "all of the above" can work, but what is best for the least (work or money) is determined by the owner. Be careful.
_________________
Bruce Baker
www.356restoration.com

[bbspdstr]

[overrestored]

After soda blasting them... for a nice factory looking finish on the outer faces of the brake drums... use oooo steel wool soaked in a lot of WD40 spray. This creates an almost perfect surface character.
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[TK6A5]