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Clutch Issue on a 62
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type47fan1
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 5:52 pm    Post subject: Clutch Issue on a 62 Reply with quote

I just picked up a 62 Bug that has a 1600 in it. It has a strange issue with the clutch though and I wanted to ask the group what you think it is. I am probably going to pull the motor this week and install a new clutch,PP,etc.

Clutch cable appears to be too long as it has a few washers on it to allow it to engange. It does look new though. The clutch is engaging at the top of the pedal and probably has 1 inch of play WITH all those washers.
When driving, it very much acts like a switch, enganged,disengaged no in between. At times it grinds going into random gears leading me to believe the clutch is not fully enganging even though I have the pedal at the floor.
Also it seemed to want lunge one time when cranked in gear with the clutch pressed.

Does that sound like a pressure plate issue? Since a new clutch is cheap and I need to get it mechanically solid so the wife can drive it, I plan on replacing.


Thanks in Advance.

Phillip
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pwmcguire
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the return spring broken on the arm where the clutch cable attaches to the transmission
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type47fan1
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No sir it is solid.
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doc1976
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would be looking into

bent/broken clutch hook on pedal shaft
bent/broken release bearing shaft hooks
clutch tube spotwelds broken loose in tunnel
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 6:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, you need to investigate. You could have anything in there from a 180mm flywheel set-up, or a 200mm flywheel set-up, with either correct or incorrect match of pressure plate center ring. So at least you'd learn that.

If there are spacer washers on the clutch cable to attempt to make it work, then something is obviously wrong, and needs to be put right to eliminate future issues.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep in mind those of trying to answer are just taking a guess. But I think the first thing you need to do is pull the pedals and replace the cable with one the correct length.

If you buy a new cable and it is the same length and your pedal hook is in good shape, then I would suspect the cable tube has broken a weld.

The cable tube is a solid metal tube in the tunnel that the cable runs inside of. It (along with the bowden tube) keep the distance that the cable runs constant.

If the tube has come loose from its welds, then that tube is allowed to move and flex which shortens the length of the tube so to speak. That puts slack in the cable, but the main thing is it makes the length and therefore the amount of slack very inconsistant.

Hopefully most of your problem is just the wrong cable. And I would start there before pulling the engine. Washers under the cable don't allow good consistant pull at the clutch arm. It needs that ball shape between the nut and the arm.

It may be that since there are washers in there you are just not getting consistant pull at the arm. Without the ball of the nut in contact with the arm the cable could be moving aroind in the arm hole which effectively changes the amount of pull it has.

The arm doesn't move much, so any sudden shift in the cable at the arm can give exactly the response you are seeing.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a similar isue on my '62 and it was actully a bad front transmission mount. When I would release the clutch then the tourqe of the engine would allow the nose of the transmission to shift a tad causing erratic clutch engagement...and even sometimes it would cause the throttle pedal to act funny...compounding the issue.


I would do the easy stuff first:

Check cable length
Check front transmission mount
Check that my bowden tube had the proper drop in it
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it has the wrong cable. It is a 65 pan under it.
I pulled the pedal cluster at lunch and the hook looks fine and the tube inside the tunnel felt sturdy.
pics of pedal cluster below.
Thanks for the ideas so far. Will keep looking. It runs pretty good so it would be nice if I could get it to shift right.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I also got under while someone pushed the clutch. The arm on the tranny appears to have full motion.If I back off the tension I get the same abrupt engangment of the clutch, just lower to the floor. The clutch cable looks pretty new so I am thinking it clutch/pressure plate is next on the check list along with swapping to a smaller cable.
Thanks
Phillip
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2012 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Super big thanks to my bud Josh. We pulled the motor and evaluated the condition.We found several issues but I think the culprit was the oil soaked clutch and pressure plate.
The main shaft seal for the tranny was leaking and leaked all over the clutch.
So I got a new Clutch, Pressure Plate, Flywheel, Gland nut, Correct cable,T.O bearing and proceeded to replace them all.
The cable in the car was about 3 inches too long.
Once we swapped the clutch and put the motor back in and it would not fire so now I have a power issue, the coil is now not powering up, but we did get it to run to test and it did not jerk or drop out of gear. Tranny could stand to be replaced but it will not allow me to shift smoothly versus herky jerky.
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drscope
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

WOW! Progress!
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

type47fan1 wrote:
Tranny could stand to be replaced but it will not allow me to shift smoothly versus herky jerky.


Check your coil wiring. All too often a newbie mistake to put wires on wrong connections, which can fry the wiring harness if not fixed quickly enough....

Check transaxle gear oil level and if over 30,000 miles or unknown, change it now!

Does the boden tube have proper bend in it??

How are the front and rear transaxle mounts? Loose, broken???
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type47fan1
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric,
Poor spelling
Tranny could stand to be replaced but it will NOW allow me to shift smoothly versus herky jerky.


Power issue It was a shot out Voltage regulator.

Bowden tube and mounts are new and good to go. Gear oil was changed. It did not shift good into 2nd from the get go. It is better but I want a rebuilt one any way.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No problem!

How is it not shifting into second? Grinding? Upshifting, downshifting?

If grinding either way could be you need to adjust the stick shift base and or the shift rod coupler bolts are loosening up, so you are hitting reverse instead of second.

BTW when you push on the clutch pedal you are disengaging the engine from the transaxle.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

type47fan1 wrote:
Super big thanks to my bud Josh. We pulled the motor and evaluated the condition.We found several issues but I think the culprit was the oil soaked clutch and pressure plate.
The main shaft seal for the tranny was leaking and leaked all over the clutch.
So I got a new Clutch, Pressure Plate, Flywheel, Gland nut, Correct cable,T.O bearing and proceeded to replace them all.


Not reading that you replaced the bad seal in the transmission...Until that's fixed, it's just going to leak trans gear oil all over your brand new clutch...
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type47fan1
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bassdude404 wrote:
type47fan1 wrote:
Super big thanks to my bud Josh. We pulled the motor and evaluated the condition.We found several issues but I think the culprit was the oil soaked clutch and pressure plate.
The main shaft seal for the tranny was leaking and leaked all over the clutch.
So I got a new Clutch, Pressure Plate, Flywheel, Gland nut, Correct cable,T.O bearing and proceeded to replace them all.


Not reading that you replaced the bad seal in the transmission...Until that's fixed, it's just going to leak trans gear oil all over your brand new clutch...


Yeah we replaced that seal right away. When we took it apart the goal was to find all that was wrong so everything was swapped that was bad. Flywheel really could have been re used but I figured why not swap it.
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