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Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal
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IdahoDoug
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew - over the heads of what? And what size socket? Thanks.

Also, when you order your seals be sure you are not getting just the little caps that go on the flange, but in fact the real oil seal that goes behind it. Some think it's the cap leaking when in fact it's the seal.

DougM
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IdahoDoug
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 12:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dylan (or anyone who's done this), I smeared fresh gear oil on my flange seal lips and the flange surface they run against on the first one. But wondered if a thicker grease would have been better. IF they get splashed from inside I would not worry. What did you guys do?

DouM
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry Doug, bad post on my part. I had clicked on page 1 by mistake and thought the end of that page was the most recent post. I was replying regarding taking out the screws that hold on the plastic caps of the adjusters. To get them out without any drama, tap a 12pt socket over the head. The size of the socket should be the first size too small to fit over the head without pounding it on.

Andrew
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presslab
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IdahoDoug wrote:
IF they get splashed from inside I would not worry. What did you guys do?

DouM


Yes, the gear oil is free to lube the seals. When I did mine, the van was slightly tilted to one side and a bit of oil poured out once the seal was removed.
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IdahoDoug
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew - thanks! Got to use my snazzy new right angle impact screw extractor. I got it for a tough job I'm doing next month on the LandCruiser in tight quarters, but early bonus. Amazing tool for stuck screws of any kind and location.

Presslab - thanks for that input. I'll just oil it as normal for a seal that will get splashed then. If either of you have any assistance on the "Syncro diff lock help" thread, I'm stuck at the moment with some parts I did not expect wanting to come out the side of the diff gear case and don't know if I can pull them out and service the shaft, or not to pull it because something inside will fall off. Thanks!!
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Racerrojo
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew A. Libby wrote:
Be sure to check that the atmospheric bleed in the top front of the trans is not blocked before starting on this job. If it is plugged (quite common) then it will make brand new seals leak. And if it is plugged and your seals are leaking, unplugging it will often cure the leaking without needing to change the seals.


what does that look like? is it just a small hole?
Ill be doing some RnR under the van this long weekend, the list keeps growing, from a simple rear wheel cylinder replacement to, new clutch (i think my pressure plate is caca). this seals are leaking but I doubt I can fin them locally and thus no time to ship them in.
and since I'll have the trany out...
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Last edited by Racerrojo on Wed Nov 21, 2012 6:34 pm; edited 1 time in total
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70coupyel
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Racerrojo wrote:
Andrew A. Libby wrote:
Be sure to check that the atmospheric bleed in the top front of the trans is not blocked before starting on this job. If it is plugged (quite common) then it will make brand new seals leak. And if it is plugged and your seals are leaking, unplugging it will often cure the leaking without needing to change the seals.


what does that look like? is it just a small hole?
Ill be doing some RnR under the van this long weekend, the list keeps growing, from a simple rear wheel cylinder replacement to, new clutch (i think my pressure plate is caca). this seals are leaking but I doubt I can fin them locally and thus no time to ship them in.
and since I'll have the trany out...


Search my brother.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=515450
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TheAndante wrote:
Saying that specs are different than dimensions doesn't make sense. Porsche specs/VW specs/engineering specs are nothing but a series of dimensions,sizes,percentages,measurements, etc.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=338946&highlight=
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Racerrojo
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yep, I searched on my trany in the garage and found the little hole
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AdrianC
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 1:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Has anybody had fun'n'games with the grease cap on the inside of the flange? When we replaced the CVs last year, the RH was missing the cap. We replaced it with a new one, but somehow the driveshaft's already eaten it completely - only shreds of the edge remained.

As for those M7 bolts - are they definitely 1.25 thread pitch? If they're 1.00, then I'm happy to act as a middleman for a big bag of whatever length's needed from Citroen parts suppliers over here - they're common on 2cvs, with an 11mm hex head usually.

For eg...
http://www.ecas2cvparts.co.uk/screw-plated-11mm-head-14mm-long-p-1199.html
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 5:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

AdrianC wrote:
Has anybody had fun'n'games with the grease cap on the inside of the flange? When we replaced the CVs last year, the RH was missing the cap. We replaced it with a new one, but somehow the driveshaft's already eaten it completely - only shreds of the edge remained.


Are your CV's assembled correctly? Have you checked your axle length? Maybe it has been swapped out for one a bit too long. Has your van been lowered by any chance?
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presslab
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

AdrianC wrote:
We replaced it with a new one, but somehow the driveshaft's already eaten it completely - only shreds of the edge remained.


Axle too long (unlikely) or axle not centered in the CV joints (likely). Check the "ribs" on the axle to make sure the same amount is showing on both sides, at the small end of the boots.
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AdrianC
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 5:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
AdrianC wrote:
Has anybody had fun'n'games with the grease cap on the inside of the flange? When we replaced the CVs last year, the RH was missing the cap. We replaced it with a new one, but somehow the driveshaft's already eaten it completely - only shreds of the edge remained.


Are your CV's assembled correctly?


They should be. They were fitted by very Vanagon-familiar people, with the shafts out and on the bench. Circlips are all in place.

Quote:
Have you checked your axle length?


Not yet.

Quote:
Maybe it has been swapped out for one a bit too long. Has your van been lowered by any chance?


No. The one that's having this issue is the RH (non-furniture) side. It was the other side that had a broken pigtail on the coil, too.
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minsk
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2012 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

has anyone sourced any of the machine screws m7 x 1.0 x 13?
iv looked everywhere on the interwebs...no luck..im redoing a transmission now also and need them
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2012 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

minsk wrote:
has anyone sourced any of the machine screws m7 x 1.0 x 13?
iv looked everywhere on the interwebs...no luck..im redoing a transmission now also and need them

You can get a hex head M7x1.0x12 here. Haven't tried it.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91280A410

I remember ETKA showed a 1.25 pitch but I never actually measured one.
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minsk
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2012 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it is 1.25
i was at fastenal yesterday
we measured it..its a little longer than 13 also
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Racerrojo
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just did this, but with the tranny on and engine stand ( replacing CV shaft and new Clutch), one of the flanges required a puller, the other one just came off by hand, I swear the hardest thing (besides dropping the trans.) was the stupid cir-clip major PITA and I had the pliers, installing it, was harder.
But any way while I was on that, I noticed a leak on the shift lever seal, and I'll like to replace it while I have every out.
Is this an easy one?
I thought I found a post that detailed the procedure but cant seem to find it.
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minsk
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so because of the scarcity of m7 x 1.25 13mm.
i retapped the screw holes to m8 x 1.25
and used these screws m8 panhead screws from Mcmaster Carr

18-8 Stainless Steel Metric Pan Head Phillips Machine Screw, M8 Size, 16MM Length, 1.25MM Pitch, packs of 10
Product Number. 92000A526

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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1988 Vanagon GL
2009 audi a3

www.sunroofsyncro.com
vanagonmechanic.com

http://facebook.com/pittsburghvanagonclub
https://www.youtube.com/minskmade


my super slow 1987 sunroof syncro rebuild
https://goo.gl/photos/7e9MZhHJxGvvv1Tm7

VANAGON STICKERS
https://www.etsy.com/shop/pigeonink
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

good morning folks,

first off, thanks for all the pictures & information, its making this process less painless.

Im replacing the seals on my trans & the plastic piece, that goes over the seal but under the flange that is held on with these two screws, is all messed up. anyone know of a good source to find them? Ive called a few places yesterday, but nobody had any leads for me.

This is the piece Im looking for
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


thanks
Bob
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minsk
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i was not able to find those either...if anyone know that would be super awesome
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www.sunroofsyncro.com
vanagonmechanic.com

http://facebook.com/pittsburghvanagonclub
https://www.youtube.com/minskmade


my super slow 1987 sunroof syncro rebuild
https://goo.gl/photos/7e9MZhHJxGvvv1Tm7

VANAGON STICKERS
https://www.etsy.com/shop/pigeonink
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Bobalos
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found them @ Rancho Performance Trans. (714) 680 0126. the person I talked with was Mike & he was very knowledgeable & quite helpful.

they have the OEM plastic ones & metal replacement ones.

Also, Chirco (800 955 9795), can get them, they just dont stock them. sounds like the only ones that they deal with is the metal replacement ones.

& FWIW, I went to my local "I have everything" hardware store (that has never let me down) yesterday & they did not have anything in 7mm but of course had a bunch of 8mm, with the same thread pitch, in just about any head I wanted. running a tap through it was easy peasy. should work fine.

thanks again folks.
Bob
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