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MonT3
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012
Posts: 1988
Location: South Dakota
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 Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 7:28 pm Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| montehm wrote: |
As for the harness, I wasn't sure if it's a one piece or would actually split at the regulator. I thought about taking it from there to the back as it seems to be much better splicing point than by the starter. But I'm going to see about getting the entire thing. I'll have teh same color code and gauge which I was a bit concerned about. The temp is dropping so my next outing may be in the snow. |
You should be able to get it in 1 piece. You'll have to start at the fuse box, and work your way back to the VR. Most of this will be inside the car, since the harness runs on the top inside of the rocker (under the threshold plate, and a black harness cover under the carpet). Then you'll need to pull the left rear fender (as the harness rides on the inner fender, and has some bent metal tabs to hold it in place), and work the harness from the right tail light back to the VR, then slip the front half out the hole. Getting the harness thru the 2 holes in the engine compartment (left side) IS the hardest part of the job, as the harnes will have taken a "set". It's a PIA way to do it, but then you shouldn't have to cut any wires. It's the way I'd do it, IF I'd ever have to do another one.  Then, while it's out, test the entire thing with a VOM, and make any repairs while it's out.  Good luck, and keep up the updates.  |
Thank you for the guidance on the best way to remove the harness. I've never remove one and didn't know if I had to take both fenders off or not. I've seen pics of the harness running on the outer left side but didn't know if it ran on the right as well. That saves me some time I can use pulling something else. I removed the fuse box after pulling the steering column so the wires are loose. I saw the harness cover or sheathing for the wires under the dash running along the wall to the floor. I'll start there and work my way back. Theres quite a bit of trash and debris I'll have to remove to able to work in the backseat area but that's ok. As long as I can get a complete harness I'll clean it out. I guess I can pull relays as well as I have no spares (hope they're still good) Do you know how to test those? Same way using a VOM?
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MonT3
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22410
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 4:38 pm Post subject: |
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| montehm wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| montehm wrote: |
As for the harness, I wasn't sure if it's a one piece or would actually split at the regulator. I thought about taking it from there to the back as it seems to be much better splicing point than by the starter. But I'm going to see about getting the entire thing. I'll have teh same color code and gauge which I was a bit concerned about. The temp is dropping so my next outing may be in the snow. |
You should be able to get it in 1 piece. You'll have to start at the fuse box, and work your way back to the VR. Most of this will be inside the car, since the harness runs on the top inside of the rocker (under the threshold plate, and a black harness cover under the carpet). Then you'll need to pull the left rear fender (as the harness rides on the inner fender, and has some bent metal tabs to hold it in place), and work the harness from the right tail light back to the VR, then slip the front half out the hole. Getting the harness thru the 2 holes in the engine compartment (left side) IS the hardest part of the job, as the harnes will have taken a "set". It's a PIA way to do it, but then you shouldn't have to cut any wires. It's the way I'd do it, IF I'd ever have to do another one. Then, while it's out, test the entire thing with a VOM, and make any repairs while it's out. Good luck, and keep up the updates. |
Thank you for the guidance on the best way to remove the harness. I've never remove one and didn't know if I had to take both fenders off or not. I've seen pics of the harness running on the outer left side but didn't know if it ran on the right as well. That saves me some time I can use pulling something else. I removed the fuse box after pulling the steering column so the wires are loose. I saw the harness cover or sheathing for the wires under the dash running along the wall to the floor. I'll start there and work my way back. Theres quite a bit of trash and debris I'll have to remove to able to work in the backseat area but that's ok. As long as I can get a complete harness I'll clean it out. I guess I can pull relays as well as I have no spares (hope they're still good) Do you know how to test those? Same way using a VOM? |
You'll have to pull back the carpet on the left front side, and remove 2 or 3 fender bolts (depends on how many still have the clips on them), to get the front half of the carpet loose.
As for testing the relays, I normally use a battery charger, and something for a load (being switched), light a light. It'll let you know IF it's good or not real quick. Follow the schematic on the relay (most have them printed or etched into them) for wiring them up.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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MonT3
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012
Posts: 1988
Location: South Dakota
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| Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 7:29 pm Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| montehm wrote: |
| Bobnotch wrote: |
| montehm wrote: |
As for the harness, I wasn't sure if it's a one piece or would actually split at the regulator. I thought about taking it from there to the back as it seems to be much better splicing point than by the starter. But I'm going to see about getting the entire thing. I'll have teh same color code and gauge which I was a bit concerned about. The temp is dropping so my next outing may be in the snow. |
You should be able to get it in 1 piece. You'll have to start at the fuse box, and work your way back to the VR. Most of this will be inside the car, since the harness runs on the top inside of the rocker (under the threshold plate, and a black harness cover under the carpet). Then you'll need to pull the left rear fender (as the harness rides on the inner fender, and has some bent metal tabs to hold it in place), and work the harness from the right tail light back to the VR, then slip the front half out the hole. Getting the harness thru the 2 holes in the engine compartment (left side) IS the hardest part of the job, as the harnes will have taken a "set". It's a PIA way to do it, but then you shouldn't have to cut any wires. It's the way I'd do it, IF I'd ever have to do another one. Then, while it's out, test the entire thing with a VOM, and make any repairs while it's out. Good luck, and keep up the updates. |
Thank you for the guidance on the best way to remove the harness. I've never remove one and didn't know if I had to take both fenders off or not. I've seen pics of the harness running on the outer left side but didn't know if it ran on the right as well. That saves me some time I can use pulling something else. I removed the fuse box after pulling the steering column so the wires are loose. I saw the harness cover or sheathing for the wires under the dash running along the wall to the floor. I'll start there and work my way back. Theres quite a bit of trash and debris I'll have to remove to able to work in the backseat area but that's ok. As long as I can get a complete harness I'll clean it out. I guess I can pull relays as well as I have no spares (hope they're still good) Do you know how to test those? Same way using a VOM? |
You'll have to pull back the carpet on the left front side, and remove 2 or 3 fender bolts (depends on how many still have the clips on them), to get the front half of the carpet loose.
As for testing the relays, I normally use a battery charger, and something for a load (being switched), light a light. It'll let you know IF it's good or not real quick. Follow the schematic on the relay (most have them printed or etched into them) for wiring them up. |
Thanks for the info Bobnotch. I'll pull them and test them out.
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MonT3
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Joined: January 07, 2012
Posts: 1988
Location: South Dakota
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| Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 7:47 pm Post subject: |
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Started to tackle the cleaning of the engine bay. there are areas that have undercoating on it that burned and left behind a crisp, bubbled mess behind I want to get rid of. My intent is clean as much of this as possible, prime it and shoot it with some VHT as a short term solution until I'm next fall when I'm planning on replacing the pan and can get the shell blasted. There are areas needing attention under there where some patching may have to take place. But for now, my concern is to clean, prime and paint it. Next wire it place the engine back in.
I managed to remove quite a bit and need to get into the corners then spend some time on the rusty areas. At least now I''m aware of the condition of the area and what I need to address come next fall. Would be nice to get this area blasted but then I'd want to get the remaining are done and I'd rather have the body off for that.
I'll be back at this again tomorrow and a few more days.
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Dfasty
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Joined: November 22, 2005
Posts: 528
Location: north bay,ca.
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| Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 8:09 pm Post subject: |
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that's cleaning up nicely
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Bobnotch
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Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22410
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 9:44 pm Post subject: |
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Very nice Monte. I would of used some laquer thinner to remove the undercoating first though. It is cleaning up nicely, and definitely letting you see some traces of rust.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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MonT3
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012
Posts: 1988
Location: South Dakota
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MonT3
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012
Posts: 1988
Location: South Dakota
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| Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 10:03 pm Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Very nice Monte. I would of used some laquer thinner to remove the undercoating first though. It is cleaning up nicely, and definitely letting you see some traces of rust. |
Thanks Bobnotch. I'll take that laquer thinner to the corners to get that stuff up. There's rust in there and I'm already thinking on cutting some metal on my next trip out to the donor fasty patch some of the areas that'll need it. Glad it's not alot. I did find a hole in a rear corner that is going to be interesting to repair. But that will get taken care of next fall.
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MonT3
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| Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 8:46 pm Post subject: |
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Spent the majority of the day cleaning the compartment with laquer thinner and a rag. It helped tremendously. Thanks Bobnotch. Finsihed up with the wire wheel and some light sanding. Wiped the area down and applied some epoxy primer. Very happy with the turnout. Tomorrow, a little light sanding then spray it.
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Bobnotch
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MonT3
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Joined: January 07, 2012
Posts: 1988
Location: South Dakota
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| Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 8:23 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the compliment Bobnotch. I think my Engine bay is ready. I'm going to clean up the engine lid groove where the seal sits, paint it and then work the firewall matting and wire harness in next. I couldn't find a good sample of the matting to copy as a template so I'll be making my own from some matting I bought that was for a Type1. Each sample I ran across was in bad so I'll take some measurements and make one. I'll get some pics posted of that in the next day or so. In the meantime, here's where I left off.
I've also managed to clean up part of the wire harness I intend on splicing in. The sheathing was hard and cracked in some places. I've cut that hard sheathing off and have been removing the sheathing from a different harness Ataraxia hooked me up with. Between these two, I'll get what I need. Picked up the but connectors and have heat shrink tubing to get this enseavor underway. By the looks of the existing harness I may be splicing close to where it re-enters the rear of the body. Thought about doing it inside the cab But all the harness is in very good condition and well protected and looks too good to cut into up there. Maybe I need to give that some more thought.
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ataraxia
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Joined: March 19, 2010
Posts: 4504
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 9:40 pm Post subject: |
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That's looking real nice...good to hear the wire I'd been hoarding for years got put to use!  |
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goosler
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Joined: September 17, 2011
Posts: 10
Location: Hunterdon county, NJ
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| Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 10:08 pm Post subject: |
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that was looking amazing, until you hit it with black......
why not the stock color again? |
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MonT3
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Joined: January 07, 2012
Posts: 1988
Location: South Dakota
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| Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 10:25 pm Post subject: |
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| goosler wrote: |
that was looking amazing, until you hit it with black......
why not the stock color again? |
Appreciate the comment. Car's not stock, paint's not stock. stock color in the bay was covered over with undercoating long ago so I changed it to suit my need. Besides this is temp until next fall when the body comes off for pan replacement and parts of the body metal given some attention.
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MonT3
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Posts: 1988
Location: South Dakota
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| Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 10:28 pm Post subject: |
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| ataraxia wrote: |
| That's looking real nice...good to hear the wire I'd been hoarding for years got put to use! |
I'm almost there. This during my next days off from work I should be making some serious headway. I think maybe Tues I can put the engine back in barring the weather of course. Just want to test the electricals before I go any further.
That harness is getting put to use. Thanks again.
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MonT3
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Posts: 1988
Location: South Dakota
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| Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2012 9:41 pm Post subject: |
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| montehm wrote: |
| ataraxia wrote: |
| That's looking real nice...good to hear the wire I'd been hoarding for years got put to use! |
I'm almost there. This during my next days off from work I should be making some serious headway. I think maybe Tues I can put the engine back in barring the weather of course. Just want to test the electricals before I go any further.
That harness is getting put to use. Thanks again. |
I got the harness piece stripped, cut and re-sheathed. I ran out of some heat shrink so I decided to wait for tomorrows trip back to Fastenal for some more. Thought I had enough. I took the remaining afternoon on the couch and used some rubbing compound on the gravel guards I came across during my trip to parents place.
Before...
Now...
Not bad for a daily driver accessory. I tapped on it a bit to get that crease out of it. Hopefully I'll finish the harness and matting and get them in tomorrow as well. Have a few engine related things to address and I should be able to get it back in during this break as planned but not rushing it.
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MonT3
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Location: South Dakota
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| Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 7:35 pm Post subject: |
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These past two days have been pretty productive. As mentioned before, I planned on getting the wiring in which I did. I have the splice part exposed in case I have to work on it after the motor is in and after I wire up the starter, generator, coil, etc. I'm sure I'm forget something but will have to deal with it when I find it.
In prepping for this evening, I wanted to finish the balance tube (the previous one I made I wasnt happy with). So with 5/16" tubing from, I created a balance tube from manifold to manifold. I had to get creative and used a rubber plug normally used in engine blocks to buffer between the tube bracket. If not mistaken, the OG ones have something similar. It worked out pretty good so that was knocked out. As I was closing the loops on the fuel lines, I tried to run the line that would be from the filter thru the firewall tin down to the pans fuel line. I found the hole not being large enough to support a 1/4" fuel line which I've used. So the engine will sit another few days until I can get that taken care of then get the engine off the stand and on the lift to remount into the square.
I'd appreciate some feedback on how I ran the fuel lines. There's a gap between the line ends and the base, essentially where the in-line fuel posts meet the carb top. Also with how I zipped them together. It looks tight but there's some play in there. Lastly, I think I ran the fuel line to the pump correctly BUT if not, please let me know as I think I got it right.
Look forward to hearing your thoughts.
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Bobnotch
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Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22410
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 9:20 am Post subject: |
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You'll have to ask a bug guy on the pump, as I'm not to familiar with that style. The lines look good though, and should be fine. Are you using the stock T-3 air cleaner? If so, you'll need the bracket that mounts to the balance tube holder (fills part of the gap in your pic). Instead of going thru the engine tin, you might want to think about going thru the body tin on the left side of the engine bay (front wall). That's where I've been routing mine lately, as the hose fits thru the hole there easily. Plus, IF I want to pull the engine, I can pull the hose off the pump and plug it (then lay the hose up along that wall in the insulating clips), without having to pull the hose thru the engine tin. Looks like it's ready to go in though.
P.S. Did you find out what the extra wire was for yet? It might be a rear hatch light.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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MonT3
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012
Posts: 1988
Location: South Dakota
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| Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 11:34 am Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
You'll have to ask a bug guy on the pump, as I'm not to familiar with that style. The lines look good though, and should be fine. Are you using the stock T-3 air cleaner? If so, you'll need the bracket that mounts to the balance tube holder (fills part of the gap in your pic). Instead of going thru the engine tin, you might want to think about going thru the body tin on the left side of the engine bay (front wall). That's where I've been routing mine lately, as the hose fits thru the hole there easily. Plus, IF I want to pull the engine, I can pull the hose off the pump and plug it (then lay the hose up along that wall in the insulating clips), without having to pull the hose thru the engine tin. Looks like it's ready to go in though.
P.S. Did you find out what the extra wire was for yet? It might be a rear hatch light. |
I had labeled the hatch wire. I think the one I'm curious about may be the reverse wires. when I re-ran the rearward part of the harness, that piece wasn't on there so it got my curiosity going or is that a totally separate piece. I have alot of wire from that fasty (may be there) and from what I got from Ataraxia.
As foro the hole, I read your post after I had made my modification on the tin and clamped off the newly ran line. I had to go back and check the body tin though as I didn't recall a hole there but move the harness...there it was. See where you're routing makes alot of sense. I'll pull the line from where it is, bore out the body tin hole (5/8") for a rubber grommet to support a 1/4" fuel line. My filter resides near the tranny outside of the engine bay so I need to get that area ready and that'll be tomorrows project as I'll get the hole done, put int a new filter and run the hose. Then I'll be ready.
I'm going to be running the same kind of air cleaners I had on there before. They were Empis low-profile, round-type. Nothing extravagant. I saw the bracket on my other motor as I was looking to use it if it separated from the balance tube piece.
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ataraxia
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Joined: March 19, 2010
Posts: 4504
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 1:18 pm Post subject: |
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| montehm wrote: |
I had labeled the hatch wire. I think the one I'm curious about may be the reverse wires. when I re-ran the rearward part of the harness, that piece wasn't on there so it got my curiosity going or is that a totally separate piece. I have alot of wire from that fasty (may be there) and from what I got from Ataraxia.
As foro the hole, I read your post after I had made my modification on the tin and clamped off the newly ran line. I had to go back and check the body tin though as I didn't recall a hole there but move the harness...there it was. See where you're routing makes alot of sense. I'll pull the line from where it is, bore out the body tin hole (5/8") for a rubber grommet to support a 1/4" fuel line. My filter resides near the tranny outside of the engine bay so I need to get that area ready and that'll be tomorrows project as I'll get the hole done, put int a new filter and run the hose. Then I'll be ready.
I'm going to be running the same kind of air cleaners I had on there before. They were Empis low-profile, round-type. Nothing extravagant. I saw the bracket on my other motor as I was looking to use it if it separated from the balance tube piece. |
The wire you got from me was a random assortment of wire from two early T3 and one late T3...so who knows what's actually there. |
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