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Engine out...what next
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RichardinNZ
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

...investigations continue!

Taken two barrels off,marked the inside of the head where they should meet with Sharpie (marker pen) and turned each barrel back and forth to see where they meet. One barrel takes less of the mark away and it looks like it would be good to clean the edge of the barrel. How have people done this or do people lap barrels to heads (I note John Muir doesn't say do this for a 36hp engine).

Thanks
Richard
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Rwoodshvac
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Richard
Measure the length of the spigot end of your cylinders and compare that to the depth of your fly cut. make sure the top cooling fin on the cylinders are not touching your heads

Just thinking if everything fit before you fly cut ? + no copper rings = less clearance between head and first cooling fin
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RichardinNZ
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the help. Clearance is now OK...it looks like my remaiing issue is to clean up the 'face' of the cylinder. Will then refit the cylinders and mock things up again.

regards
Richard
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RichardinNZ
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For various reasons this project has been parked until this week. Tops of barrels now flat and polished and seal nicely on heads. Barrels have been honed and broken rings replaced and all assembled (again) into long block.

Despite having shortened pushrods by 2mm there is still very little clearance between rockers and top of valve. On 7 it appears ok but on the last one the rocker almost touches valve without adjuster screw in place. I assume I am ok to grind a little off the rocker?

Hope to be up and running this week if all goes well and I get some help to reinstall!

Thanks
Richard
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RichardinNZ
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 11:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK glad I didn't take the grinder to the rocker! Took the dog for a nice long walk instead and thought long and hard. I realised what was wrong. I was 180degrees out as the drive on the '019' (actually a BR8) had been taken off and put back on 180degrees out...

Engine now back in and running. Goes really well and noticeably quicker than a stock 36hp. Pulls really well...but need to properly balance the carbs and sort a high idle speed. Adjusted the linkage and it is still high. Any hints to adjusting the RHS volume control screw; there is very little space for my hand?

Thanks for the help and advice people have given on this project and to Matthew at Aircooled Research for some great parts!


Richard
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pig-pen
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 1:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whenever I find a grinder in my hand I put it down and have another good think about things. Glad you did too sir.
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txoval
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 6:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a note, you would have been ok to grind the rocker tip down a bit. I do that to all my rockers to get the thickness consistent among all (thickness of the rocker head)

Mr. Motorhead is great to work with by the way...half of my parts have come from him and service is top notch
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Mr. Motorhead
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

txoval wrote:
Just a note, you would have been ok to grind the rocker tip down a bit. I do that to all my rockers to get the thickness consistent among all (thickness of the rocker head)

Mr. Motorhead is great to work with by the way...half of my parts have come from him and service is top notch


And.........if you want to take that rocker modification a little further, you can make them all the same weight like was done in this thread about rockers....

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5494829&highlight=#5494829

We can thank Tom for that one. It just takes a little time to core out and weigh a pile of rocker assemblies!
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36 horsepower parts for sale at http://www.aircooledresearch.com/
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RichardinNZ
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had to pull the carbs and manifolds as I realised I had air leaks....in part due to the linkage which attaches to the manifolds. The helm joints that had been used by the previous owner of the manifolds just didn't fit properly (they'd used imperial joints in metric threads with lots of plastic metal to fil the gap). Now have new joints which won't fall off and will also seal in the manifold properly.

Anyway...now need new gaskets for the manifold to head. Does anyone know who stocks them (N138211) and who will charge only reasonable shipping (ie cost of small packet or envelope and stamps) as the big retailers want $45 shipping for a $2 part!!

Many thanks
Richard
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Mr. Motorhead
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RichardinNZ wrote:
Had to pull the carbs and manifolds as I realised I had air leaks....in part due to the linkage which attaches to the manifolds. The helm joints that had been used by the previous owner of the manifolds just didn't fit properly (they'd used imperial joints in metric threads with lots of plastic metal to fil the gap). Now have new joints which won't fall off and will also seal in the manifold properly.

Anyway...now need new gaskets for the manifold to head. Does anyone know who stocks them (N138211) and who will charge only reasonable shipping (ie cost of small packet or envelope and stamps) as the big retailers want $45 shipping for a $2 part!!

Many thanks
Richard


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30 years experience in the sales of new and used auto parts!
36 horsepower parts for sale at http://www.aircooledresearch.com/
Or the new site at http://www.bugparts.com
Check out the Bonneville project:
http://aircooledresearch.com/docs/thebonnevilleproject.html#

"All limitations are self imposed."
Some Chinese guy
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RichardinNZ
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Many thanks....I did look but couldn't spot them on your website! Not that good at surfing on an iPhone..... I'll send a PM.
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RichardinNZ
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All back together with new helm joints and new manifold to head gaskets; thanks Mr Motorhead.

The linkage isn't perfect and so idling a little fast but even if I disconnect everything still idling too fast. Any ideas? Carbs are looking a little damp (not bad but just a little damp on the sides near their bases). Any ideas why it is running fast? Otherwise it is going well. Still have stock jets in the carbs at present.

Thanks.

Richard
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RichardinNZ
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 08, 2013 11:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK...thinking further about this. If both carbs shut down OK and it is still running fast can I use the volume control screw on each carb to slow the idle?

Thanks
Richard
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RichardinNZ
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2015 12:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine out...what next Reply with quote

Update...
I ran the car OK for about a year, having adjusted the idle by adjusting the volume control screws (advice regarding this would still be good!). Car ran really strong and would pull nicely up all of my local hills! I had to use the car for work for about 6 months, driving 50 miles a day on the motorway.

In Oct'14 the clutch release bearing self destructed and on pulling the engine I realised that this was in part due to the arm/fork its sits on being so worn. I therefore pulled the transaxle and fitted a newly built tunnel trans (1500 gears). At the same time I fitted rebuilt type 3 rear brakes, Goodridge Classic flexible brake hoses and Koni Shocks all round. Finding parts and available time slowed this but the car has now been driving again for 2 weeks. About to head off on a 500mile/800km road trip including New Zealand's 'Forgotten Highway'.

Recent photo below...
Richard

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MacLeod Willy
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 13, 2015 12:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine out...what next Reply with quote

Very nice, long time coming!
Enjoy the ride
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RichardinNZ
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2015 12:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine out...what next Reply with quote

Road Trip..
Forgotten World Highway...it is a 150km road with a 36km metalled (gravel) section. I've realised just how good the Koni shocks are. A great upgrade. We have driven about 640km (400 miles) of our trip (over 1.5 days with some visits along the way) and have 160km (100miles) left to go today via some work meetings!

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RichardinNZ
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 5:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine out...what next Reply with quote

Still making minor improvements...including 1.4:1 ratio rockers, Vintage Speed TW Sebring exhaust and rebuilt carbs.

My latest issue (which I have never fully resolved) is the linkage for my dual carbs. It is sticking. I was using the stock 36hp return spring over the accelerator cable, but this wasn't great as it wasn't allowing the cable to go at the correct angle at full throttle.

I want to instead add return springs to the carbs (as per later carbs) or to the crossbar linkage. What have others done? Any ideas?

Thanks
Richard
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txoval
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 6:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine out...what next Reply with quote

Richard, it's time for some dual port Okrasa heads! I'm still shocked at how well my engine runs now (tuning my carbs was a major pain, but it was worth it)

Have you run the 1.4's yet? Sometimes I kick myself for selling those
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RichardinNZ
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 7:41 pm    Post subject: Re: Engine out...what next Reply with quote

I agree about the heads...but I think I'll get to those via a 2276!!

I'm using the 1.4 rockers now; the car seems to go really well....although not as well as yours must run with the dual ports and dual 36 carbs....

I have just fitted a VJR4 BR25 distributor (010 curve) and it suits the car far better than the VJ4 BR8 (019 curve).

I need to drop the engine to sort the main seal though...so I'll then add the oil baffle then, plus sort this linkage.

Richard
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txoval
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2017 4:41 am    Post subject: Re: Engine out...what next Reply with quote

I have been putting together a parts list for a 74mm x 94mm engine

While my 36 is fun to drive and more powerful than stock, it is still not "fast" by any means.

When I had the 1.4's, I was going to have to add pushrod extensions to get the geometry right. I believe it was due to my grinded cam

A 2276 would be sweet

Good luck with the linkage, I would try additional springs before changing to a crossbar type
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