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Rookie flywheel removal question
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therealfrogman
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 6:59 pm    Post subject: Rookie flywheel removal question Reply with quote

Any ideas for a guy working solo to stabalize the case while I take the flywheel nut off?



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chrisflstf
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its easier to loosen the nut before you remove the heads/cylinders.
Now you need an impact or get a long piece of angle iron that you can bolt to 2 holes in the flywheel. Get a helper also to stabilize it
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chrisflstf wrote:
Its easier to loosen the nut before you remove the heads/cylinders.
Now you need an impact or get a long piece of angle iron that you can bolt to 2 holes in the flywheel. Get a helper also to stabilize it


This is what I use.....

And there is proper tool for locking flywheel.... Be real careful with home made tool, if it fails you can be on a impact course with objects in shop....

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http://www.mamotorworkstv.com/vw/product/engine-flywheel-lock-tool_111476/

IF you can not budge flywheel (its torques to 276 ft-lbs) take it to commercial tire shop (services truck tires) and have them hit it with 3/4 or 1 inch air impact... Takes about 3 seconds....

Then there are these tools....

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http://www.mamotorworkstv.com/vw/product/air-coole...ol_376122/

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http://www.mamotorworkstv.com/vw/product/torque-multiplier-kit-for-gland-and-axle-nuts/


Dale
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Last edited by Dale M. on Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:40 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Joel
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chrisflstf wrote:
Now you need an impact or get a long piece of angle iron that you can bolt to 2 holes in the flywheel. Get a helper also to stabilize it


That;s all I;ve ever done but I wouldnt use a rattle gun, a breaker bar is much more controlled.

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skills@eurocarsplus
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ahem....

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if you are going to get all john muir on that, please be careful
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runchman
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

big ass bar bolted thru a couple holes, and mine came off *really* easy. I think my bar is about 4 feet long:

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runchman
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

big ass bar bolted thru a couple holes, and mine came off *really* easy. I think my bar is about 4 feet long:

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therealfrogman
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you!
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therealfrogman
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BTW, you guys are great! I made the clamps based on some of the pics I saw of what I guess is the actual tool, I think they will work but I will be careful not to destroy any thing. Going to be doing a 12volt conversion with my rebuild.
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modok
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 10:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have seen those clamps too, not sure what they are supposed to do.......

Another vote for "bolt a long thingy to it"
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SBD
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Be careful when using that tool in the middle in Dale M's post. A friend gave his to me when he was through with it. He bought it new and used it while rebuilding one engine. The first time I used it the welds gave up and the handle came off. ABSOLUTELY NO WELD PENETRATION. It might as well been glued on with JB Weld. And this was well over 20 years ago, before the amount of offshore stuff was as bad as it is now. Just sayin'.....

Not sure where he bought it. Rolling Eyes
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tattooed_pariah
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The "torque-meister" or torque multiplier, is worth every penny.. I bought one for about $50 last year and I love it, you get EXACT torque instead of what I used to do.. (hmmm.. I weight about 150 pounds, so if I have a 3 foot jack handle on my breaker bar, and I hold it about this far away and put my body weight on it.... Rolling Eyes )

plus, if you have stock rear brakes, it works for those nuts too.
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 11:04 am    Post subject: Re: Rookie flywheel removal question Reply with quote

therealfrogman wrote:
Any ideas for a guy working solo to stabalize the case while I take the flywheel nut off?

Use a impact gun, you barely need to hold it.
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SBD
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tattooed_pariah wrote:
The "torque-meister" or torque multiplier, is worth every penny.. I bought one for about $50 last year and I love it, you get EXACT torque instead of what I used to do.. (hmmm.. I weight about 150 pounds, so if I have a 3 foot jack handle on my breaker bar, and I hold it about this far away and put my body weight on it.... Rolling Eyes )

plus, if you have stock rear brakes, it works for those nuts too.


Yeah, I finally broke down & bought one of those too. Only way to go.
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Home made one.... 9:1 factor.

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therealfrogman
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The inpact did it! I did have to heat it up a bit but it came right off. I did not think my 1/2 driver would do it (26 gallon tank) 150 psi.... Yipee!
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75smith
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2013 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

First time I removed a gland nut, tried a 1/2" impact(100 gal tank), tried for a couple minutes, nothing, my marks hadn't moved, so tried a 5 ft angle iron bolted up with a 6 ft 3/4" breaker, nothing had my whole weight on it(I weigh 220), tried the impact again, nothing, came back the next morning, shop had cooled down quite a bit, tried the impact again-came right off, didn't even take 2 seconds....still can't explain it, but sometimes it just takes time

by the way Glenn, nice one, you use the starter gear off a starter?
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