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any raised frame head pics?
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58Dub
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 4:33 pm    Post subject: any raised frame head pics? Reply with quote

Ive been thinking about trying to do a raised frame head instead of lowered spindles and adjusters. I have a couple ideas on how, but does anyone have pics of doing one?
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attack chicken
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Frame head raise isn't needed with a link pin beam, it would be a ton of extra work for nothing. If you are running a ball joint beam than I can understand it but even if you are a pie cut is probably a better choice. Regardless of what beam you have you really should at least cut-turn-weld the beam for most of your drop. I'll see if I can find the pics from my frame head raise.. What year pan are you working on?
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vaughn bros.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your tie rods go up with the raised beam. Would the tie rods hit the tank?
Or are you planning on a different tank? The frame head metal is sometimes single or doubled layer depending on where you cut it. Its kinda hard to mate with something else. A pie cut in multiple layers would/might work. It would be nice if there were frame rails.

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58Dub
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

attack chicken wrote:
Frame head raise isn't needed with a link pin beam, it would be a ton of extra work for nothing. If you are running a ball joint beam than I can understand it but even if you are a pie cut is probably a better choice. Regardless of what beam you have you really should at least cut-turn-weld the beam for most of your drop. I'll see if I can find the pics from my frame head raise.. What year pan are you working on?


I'm working with a 70 pan.
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58Dub
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vaughn bros. wrote:
Your tie rods go up with the raised beam. Would the tie rods hit the tank?
Or are you planning on a different tank? The frame head metal is sometimes single or doubled layer depending on where you cut it. Its kinda hard to mate with something else. A pie cut in multiple layers would/might work. It would be nice if there were frame rails.


yes, I figured I;d need to do something with the tank as well as where the beam bolts to the body by the brake resevoir
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attack chicken
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When doing a frame head raise EVERYTHING moves up the amount of the raise. Moving the tank, steering column(adding u joints) cutting inner fenders for tie rod clearance is just a few things I can remember off the top of my head. Pie cut would require the same stuff but be a little easier and would add needed caster by the nature of the mod. You can just cut the body mounts off at the beam and build some new ones or leave them off.

Last edited by attack chicken on Mon Mar 04, 2013 7:14 pm; edited 1 time in total
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attack chicken
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Here is some pics of my fattie. 1970 frame head raise..
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Lucatero
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks like allot of work and fabrication to lower your bug. Is there a benefit to raising the head frame, instead of putting drop spindles?
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attack chicken
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lucatero wrote:
That looks like allot of work and fabrication to lower your bug. Is there a benefit to raising the head frame, instead of putting drop spindles?


The final pic is with a raised frame head AND dropped spindles AND narrowed,cut-turned-welded beam not to mention a ton of metal cut out for steering and suspension movement. Ball joint beams are low and ball joints have a limited range of motion. If your goal is to drag beam all over the place than you can do that pretty easy without a pie cut or frame head raise but the pan will not be as low as a link pin frame head that's dragging beam not to mention riding on binding ball joints is rough as hell...raise the frame head, get some range of motion back in the front suspension and smooth out the ride. It is a lot of work, you can skip it, half ass the drop... Dump the front end on the headlight buckets, bash them shitz in with a hammer, let it settle and do it again ride on bound up ball joints dragging beam with 15 degrees turning radius and still have 4x4 clearance at the front apron.... Wink . Just what you want in the long run. Cool forum with tons of info and no haters http://cultwagen.com/
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58Dub
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 2:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

attack chicken wrote:

Here is some pics of my fattie. 1970 frame head raise..


Thanks Chicken......
I was thinking after having it raised like that you wold need some type of bracing to the top of the beam mount....say back to the pan.
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attack chicken
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

58Dub wrote:
attack chicken wrote:

Here is some pics of my fattie. 1970 frame head raise..


Thanks Chicken......
I was thinking after having it raised like that you wold need some type of bracing to the top of the beam mount....say back to the pan.



No problem. I guess it would depend on how high you went with the frame head raise as to how much off center of the tunnel it got. There was one thread that had pic's of a guy that did add brackets from the frame head extention to the tunnel. Looked nice and strong. Basic triagle steel braces. Having said all that, the pie cut is probably the way I would go in the future, makes a natural ramp under the vehicle,gets caster, and brings the frame head up. Here is a pic that I robbed from a thread on Cultwagen...cage66's car...
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and from the side after welding..
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