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Picked up a truck load of buggy parts for a new project(pics
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highdesert
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2011 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the buggy driveable finally. it needs some adjusting here and there. But I have a question for you mid-engine guys. I have the jamar super shifter(which is a piece of crap, the vertical shift rod with the knob keeps pulling up out of the socket) and the jamar mid-engine linkage. i can find gears pretty easy but I am confused because reverse is back where 4rth gear usually is found. Is this normal with a mid-engine setup or should the shift patterns be the exact same as a stock bug in all the gears?
any ideas or comments are much welcome
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quadrazer
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 11, 2011 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice looking rail you have going! Cool I really like the looks of the cage design. The engine sounds great!

I'm very curious about your front suspension setup. I've never seen an A-Arm setup like that with unequal length arms with no trailing arm (locator arm) support. I see the shorter rear section of the arm is welded in behind the longer front arm, which gives additional support. But given the fact that your chassis front end gets more narrow as you go from the windshield frame towards the front end, wouldn't that make the front tires travel inward as it also travels up during compression of the front suspension? It seems like that would create quite a bit of bump steer. Not knocking the design at all, like I said, I'm just curious (and envious!) Very Happy
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highdesert
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

quadrazer wrote:
Very nice looking rail you have going! Cool I really like the looks of the cage design. The engine sounds great!

I'm very curious about your front suspension setup. I've never seen an A-Arm setup like that with unequal length arms with no trailing arm (locator arm) support. I see the shorter rear section of the arm is welded in behind the longer front arm, which gives additional support. But given the fact that your chassis front end gets more narrow as you go from the windshield frame towards the front end, wouldn't that make the front tires travel inward as it also travels up during compression of the front suspension? It seems like that would create quite a bit of bump steer. Not knocking the design at all, like I said, I'm just curious (and envious!) Very Happy

That was a valid concern with the the front getting narrow as it went to the front, I think any more narrow and we would of had bumpstop issues, but as of now it doesn't seem to have any. But i need to rally it a little more before i will know for sure.

Anybody have a mid-engine with jamar linkage out there?????
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check these out HD, maybe they will help.

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highdesert
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 14, 2011 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

good eye Joe and thanks for posting the pix. Here is how I had mine set up to give me the gears backwords. Now it is right and i can get 1st, 2nd and reverse pretty good but the shifter won't go over far enough to get 3 and 4. I am sure it will be an easy adjustment though
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highdesert
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I snugged up the axle nuts and went for a quick drive down the street. When I got back I tightened the piss out of them. Now my wheels are way hard to spin. Anybody ever hear if you can over tighten the nuts, making the disk brakes not work right?
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traviswx1
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2011 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

highdesert wrote:
The front end was always horrible on this buggy when it was operational.
I am either going to chop the front off and re-do the a-arms or chop it off and put a beam front on. Any ideas?

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Maybe use those same pivots and make some bigger better A arms. With big adjustable heims. Those arms dont look too tough to mimic.
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highdesert
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

traviswx1 wrote:
highdesert wrote:
The front end was always horrible on this buggy when it was operational.
I am either going to chop the front off and re-do the a-arms or chop it off and put a beam front on. Any ideas?

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Maybe use those same pivots and make some bigger better A arms. With big adjustable heims. Those arms dont look too tough to mimic.


check out the new a-arms on pages 3 and 4
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highdesert
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PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2011 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

this post has been buried for a while but I thought I'd add a pic of the buggy loaded on the trailer all ready for the maiden voyage to the dunes. I have the neighbors thoroughly pissed so I figure its time. I am planning to cruise around a bit with the dirt tires before i put the paddles on.

Now lets see what I forgot to tighten!
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highdesert
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had to bring this old thread back to life with a question.
I have been happy with the buggy for a couple seasons now but on a recent trip to Nevada I broke the R&P in my tranny way back in the middle of no where in the dunes.
The buggy that was with me could not pull me out of the hole I was in and my wheels didn't turn great even in neutral. We had to put it on a little trailer and pull it out with two atvs and another rail. it sucked!
But now that I have everything tore apart I think I am going to convert to I.R.S. in order to get more travel in the rear. I'm mid engine so I will need to do a 5-link setup. Anybody know if there is a good or average front to back link length to use? Any other good 5 link info?
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highdesert
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am getting ready to put together a 5 link rear end, i have all the parts collected. Can anyone who has messed with these tell me how important it is to line up the two heims on the botom links with the where the axle meets the inboard CV? i attached a couple pics so you can tell what im talking about.
I have a rhino case tranny mounted now for mock up, does anyone know how far a 930 drive flange will stick out past the side cover when fully assembled? Any help would be great
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highdesert
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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this is a pic of my bearing carrier on the other end.
Anybody know about 930 axle plunge?
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cncfan
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't help with any of your question, but thank for posting your progress and pictures, I find it a great learning experience.
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highdesert
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks, its good to know people like these kind of threads. i was about to delete it because nobody ever responds anymore.
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 8:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It would be best if the link joints are centered in the middle of the CV joint. Set up like that, the arc of the hub will be very close to the arc of the axle and have very little plunge on the CV's through out the movement.

Now, if it were me, I would set the link joints close in that area where it is best for maintenance. Move the hub up and down though its' movement so you can measue between the flanges. Take the shortest measurement and subtract 1/2 inch and order that length axle.

Even if the link joints are not exactly spot on to match the axle movement, the way this suspension works, the axle will have very little plunge. Much unlike a typical VW rear trailing arm setup that does not follow the axle pivot points.
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Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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highdesert
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes, that is exactly how I was planning on measuring for my axles.

Here is my progress, i am waiting for my tranny to be built now.
Anybody know about the forward link length. Mine are 26'', i have seen other cars with 30''. any idea why shorter wouldn't work? maybe a little rougher ride but hopefully they will be as strong.

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kbwakesk8
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

longer arms just change arc at witch the wheel fallows along its limits of travel .
How much wheel travel are you going for?
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highdesert
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am trying to level the car out mostly. With the shocks that I have, i'd like to get 12-14'' of travel is all.
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kbwakesk8
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

with a car that light as long as your cv angles are good and the axle plunge is minimal then you should be good.

14" of travel in a car that light should be a blast.
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highdesert
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was bored today and remembered I never posted an update to the rear end that I was working on when I last posted forever ago. Here is pic of the set up, I ended up with 15'' of travel in the rear and have been super happy with it after using it for 2 summers. I am currently tearing it all down to paint and powder coat everything.


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this is at Devils Dune at St. Anthonys
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