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Kirk
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Joined: December 05, 2003
Posts: 5487
Location: North Texas
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 Posted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 8:56 am Post subject: Dual Carb Rebuild Question |
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Was cleaning shop this weekend, a task Ive needed to do a long time. Sorting and box parts, etc. Found these. Didnt know I even had them. How do I know if they are rebuildable? Everything moves and feels good, not loose, etc. What parts other than the linkage is missing? What all else would I need to use them?
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SGKent 
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Joined: October 30, 2007
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Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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| Posted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 8:58 am Post subject: |
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sre you asking what is involved in rebuilding a carb? Have you ever done one before? Do you have any manuals like Bentley to study?
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Kirk
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Joined: December 05, 2003
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Location: North Texas
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| Posted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 9:02 am Post subject: |
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No no, I understand that part. I more meant, what distinguishes a carb you can rebuild vs one thats junk. And what parts are missing from this pic?
Edit: I had a progressive on my Bug in HS, I rebuilt it, and one on my Grand Wagoneer. Those are the only ones.
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SGKent
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Joined: October 30, 2007
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Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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| Posted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 9:08 am Post subject: |
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| Kirk wrote: |
No no, I understand that part. I more meant, what distinguishes a carb you can rebuild vs one thats junk. And what parts are missing from this pic?
Edit: I had a progressive on my Bug in HS, I rebuilt it, and one on my Grand Wagoneer. Those are the only ones. |
the opinion of the person rebuilding it when they inspect it for wear.
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Wasted youth
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Joined: July 06, 2012
Posts: 5134
Location: California's Hot and Smoggy Central Valley
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| Posted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 9:13 am Post subject: |
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You are certainly missing the bar that connects them, plus I think there is an air or vaccum tube (hard pipe, not rubber) that also connects them.
O'Reilly's auto parts had a rebuild kit available when I checked three months ago for mine. Note that there is a Left and Right carburetor in this application.
Shaft seals become loose, and might need reseating/machining. I once tamped lead into the pocket around a brass/stainless steel shaft seal. It worked for years, but that's not the right way to do it. Other than that, you'll need to open them up and look. |
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Amskeptic
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Joined: October 18, 2002
Posts: 8568
Location: All Across The Country
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| Posted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 9:50 am Post subject: |
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| Kirk wrote: |
No no, I understand that part. I more meant, what distinguishes a carb you can rebuild vs one thats junk. And what parts are missing from this pic?
Edit: I had a progressive on my Bug in HS, I rebuilt it, and one on my Grand Wagoneer. Those are the only ones. |
Clean them up and stick them on any Type 4 engine test mule. They are great carbs when running correctly.
The places you look for trouble are mostly mis-matched jets, intermittent cut-off solenoids due to bent terminal spades, some knucklehead may have CUT OFF the plunger in the central idling circuit's cut-off solenoid, the threads for the cut-offs get wallowed and stripped, the choke assemblies sometimes get sloppy, the fast idle links get worn, and the unloaders get loose. Accelerator pump levers occasionally wallow out the levers that actuate them. Throttle bushings are not the big-bugaboo some claim, that central idling circuit can do an excellent compensation for throttle bushing wear.
Got a Type 4 engine guinea pig available August 16th?
Colin
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Kirk
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Joined: December 05, 2003
Posts: 5487
Location: North Texas
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| Posted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 10:21 am Post subject: |
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| Amskeptic wrote: |
| Kirk wrote: |
No no, I understand that part. I more meant, what distinguishes a carb you can rebuild vs one thats junk. And what parts are missing from this pic?
Edit: I had a progressive on my Bug in HS, I rebuilt it, and one on my Grand Wagoneer. Those are the only ones. |
Clean them up and stick them on any Type 4 engine test mule. They are great carbs when running correctly.
The places you look for trouble are mostly mis-matched jets, intermittent cut-off solenoids due to bent terminal spades, some knucklehead may have CUT OFF the plunger in the central idling circuit's cut-off solenoid, the threads for the cut-offs get wallowed and stripped, the choke assemblies sometimes get sloppy, the fast idle links get worn, and the unloaders get loose. Accelerator pump levers occasionally wallow out the levers that actuate them. Throttle bushings are not the big-bugaboo some claim, that central idling circuit can do an excellent compensation for throttle bushing wear.
Got a Type 4 engine guinea pig available August 16th?
Colin |
This is what I was looking for. Yes I do matter of fact. You coming back to my neck of the woods? I could use a full day on two buses. 
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