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Zero compression on #2!
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Slow 1200
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 3:00 pm    Post subject: Zero compression on #2! Reply with quote

title says it all, tested compression and cyl. 2 came at 0! I recently adjusted the valves so if they are tight I guess I have a stretching valve or a dropped seat.
In any case the plug on that cylinder was oily so it sounds more like rings (or worse Confused )

engine only has 50.000km on it but it sat for a long time, so maybe that cylinder rusted and got scored when it was started...

strangely enough the car didn't run that bad Shocked
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vlad01
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

number of things.


burned exhaust valve.
dropped seat.
warped head/loose studs and not sealing.
melted piston.
collapsed ring land on piston.
Bent valve/stuck valve.
Glazed bores.
Broken rings.
Stuck rings.

and probably more things but are unlikely so I wont list them.

in bold is what it likely to be given the history of your engine from the other thread.
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Slow 1200
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 11:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yup those are basically all the alternatives, today I'll pop the rocker cover to see what's in there, I adjusted the valves not that long ago so if there's a tight valve it's probably stretching (or the seat is going away) Confused
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Slow 1200
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok so there's nothing out of the ordinary in the rocker area, valve clearances are fine, nothing broken, no valve sinking or sticking out...so I think I have a burnt valve (and it's been burnt all along) and/or broken ring(s)

I guess it's time to pull the engine and take it apart Evil or Very Mad
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supaninja
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 11:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damn dude, have you pulled the head yet? Wink
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Slow 1200
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 2:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

since I don't have a proper space to work (car is in a shared parking space) pulling the engine there is out of the question, so I'm actually considering just pulling the right head on the spot, not the greatest idea I know Confused
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vdubin
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 4:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if all you need to do is a top end rebuild, that takes just a few hours. with a jack and stands you can pull it and rebuild right there. I had to do it in my apt parking lot one time. I was almost done when a cop came and hassled me, but with no leaks or mess and I was in my parking spot only he left me. I would get a p/c set just to be safe or pull the motor and pop the head, asses the damage, bag the motor, reinstal and get your parts. next weekend rebuild. a tip... check your gland nut while you are at it. the needle bearing wears and is often ignored.
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Slow 1200
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

images are worth a thousand words Confused
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supaninja
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The smoking gun...sweet! Now put a new head on it drive that thing.
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Tram
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

supaninja wrote:
The smoking gun...sweet! Now put a new head on it drive that thing.


Why? If the head's not cracked and the seat looks OK, lap another valve in, do the brake fluid test*, and slap it back on, Slappy.

*Fill your exhaust or intake port with brake fluid. Let it sit for half an hour. No brake fluid through the valve is perfect, a little bit weeping through is acceptable, but if it disappears through the valve, it's not seating.
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vlad01
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tram wrote:
supaninja wrote:
The smoking gun...sweet! Now put a new head on it drive that thing.


Why? If the head's not cracked and the seat looks OK, lap another valve in, do the brake fluid test*, and slap it back on, Slappy.

*Fill your exhaust or intake port with brake fluid. Let it sit for half an hour. No brake fluid through the valve is perfect, a little bit weeping through is acceptable, but if it disappears through the valve, it's not seating.


with temps that thing reached, it is well and truly toast.

the metallurgy of the head is now useless.

replace the head.


you can see in the pics that head it warped like a banana (evidence of not sealing evenly)
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Tram
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vlad01 wrote:
Tram wrote:
supaninja wrote:
The smoking gun...sweet! Now put a new head on it drive that thing.


Why? If the head's not cracked and the seat looks OK, lap another valve in, do the brake fluid test*, and slap it back on, Slappy.

*Fill your exhaust or intake port with brake fluid. Let it sit for half an hour. No brake fluid through the valve is perfect, a little bit weeping through is acceptable, but if it disappears through the valve, it's not seating.


with temps that thing reached, it is well and truly toast.

the metallurgy of the head is now useless.

replace the head.


you can see in the pics that head it warped like a banana (evidence of not sealing evenly)


Rolling Eyes
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Bryan67 wrote:
Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools.


To best contact me, please use the EMAIL function in my profile
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vlad01
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tram wrote:
vlad01 wrote:
Tram wrote:
supaninja wrote:
The smoking gun...sweet! Now put a new head on it drive that thing.


Why? If the head's not cracked and the seat looks OK, lap another valve in, do the brake fluid test*, and slap it back on, Slappy.

*Fill your exhaust or intake port with brake fluid. Let it sit for half an hour. No brake fluid through the valve is perfect, a little bit weeping through is acceptable, but if it disappears through the valve, it's not seating.


with temps that thing reached, it is well and truly toast.

the metallurgy of the head is now useless.

replace the head.


you can see in the pics that head it warped like a banana (evidence of not sealing evenly)


Rolling Eyes


Rolling Eyes
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Tram
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vlad01 wrote:
Tram wrote:
vlad01 wrote:
Tram wrote:
supaninja wrote:
The smoking gun...sweet! Now put a new head on it drive that thing.


Why? If the head's not cracked and the seat looks OK, lap another valve in, do the brake fluid test*, and slap it back on, Slappy.

*Fill your exhaust or intake port with brake fluid. Let it sit for half an hour. No brake fluid through the valve is perfect, a little bit weeping through is acceptable, but if it disappears through the valve, it's not seating.


with temps that thing reached, it is well and truly toast.

the metallurgy of the head is now useless.

replace the head.


you can see in the pics that head it warped like a banana (evidence of not sealing evenly)


Rolling Eyes


Rolling Eyes


Vlad, you can't see shit in that photo as far as "warping", and I'm really beginning to doubt that you have any actual hands- on experience in serious VW wrenching.
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Bryan67 wrote:
Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools.


To best contact me, please use the EMAIL function in my profile
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vlad01
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tram wrote:
vlad01 wrote:
Tram wrote:
vlad01 wrote:
Tram wrote:
supaninja wrote:
The smoking gun...sweet! Now put a new head on it drive that thing.


Why? If the head's not cracked and the seat looks OK, lap another valve in, do the brake fluid test*, and slap it back on, Slappy.

*Fill your exhaust or intake port with brake fluid. Let it sit for half an hour. No brake fluid through the valve is perfect, a little bit weeping through is acceptable, but if it disappears through the valve, it's not seating.


with temps that thing reached, it is well and truly toast.

the metallurgy of the head is now useless.

replace the head.


you can see in the pics that head it warped like a banana (evidence of not sealing evenly)


Rolling Eyes


Rolling Eyes


Vlad, you can't see shit in that photo as far as "warping", and I'm really beginning to doubt that you have any actual hands- on experience in serious VW wrenching.


I can guarantee that will be warped to some extent and much weakened. Yes the photo its great but you can still see how bad that head is.

why when new heads are available would you attempt to repair a burned out 40+ year old crusty of head? that makes no sense when the costing of repairs run with what head/s would cost brand new.

only time I would fix an old head it when they NLA and even then I would go source few 2nd ones to choose the best for reconditioning.


I seriously doubt you consider all accepts of what you are looking at when you look at it.

yes? the photo you can't tell much? so how is it look repairable to you when you can't even tell what fabric texture you are looking at on your monitor Laughing
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supaninja
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Friggin type 1 heads are cheaper then the tool to compress the valve.

Unlike vlad, I can't afford the brand new type 4 heads plus the required machine work to make them worth a damn so I run second hand heads. The old German aluminum is better then the recycled trash heads that are made overseas.

BTW- I have about 5 good used sets of spare heads, just incase.
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Tram
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vlad01 wrote:
Tram wrote:
vlad01 wrote:
Tram wrote:
vlad01 wrote:
Tram wrote:
supaninja wrote:
The smoking gun...sweet! Now put a new head on it drive that thing.


Why? If the head's not cracked and the seat looks OK, lap another valve in, do the brake fluid test*, and slap it back on, Slappy.

*Fill your exhaust or intake port with brake fluid. Let it sit for half an hour. No brake fluid through the valve is perfect, a little bit weeping through is acceptable, but if it disappears through the valve, it's not seating.


with temps that thing reached, it is well and truly toast.

the metallurgy of the head is now useless.

replace the head.


you can see in the pics that head it warped like a banana (evidence of not sealing evenly)


Rolling Eyes


Rolling Eyes


Vlad, you can't see shit in that photo as far as "warping", and I'm really beginning to doubt that you have any actual hands- on experience in serious VW wrenching.


I can guarantee that will be warped to some extent and much weakened. Yes the photo its great but you can still see how bad that head is.

why when new heads are available would you attempt to repair a burned out 40+ year old crusty of head? that makes no sense when the costing of repairs run with what head/s would cost brand new.

only time I would fix an old head it when they NLA and even then I would go source few 2nd ones to choose the best for reconditioning.


I seriously doubt you consider all accepts of what you are looking at when you look at it.

yes? the photo you can't tell much? so how is it look repairable to you when you can't even tell what fabric texture you are looking at on your monitor Laughing


35+ years of experience in dealing with this stuff.
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Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.

Bryan67 wrote:
Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools.


To best contact me, please use the EMAIL function in my profile
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vlad01
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tram wrote:
vlad01 wrote:
Tram wrote:
vlad01 wrote:
Tram wrote:
vlad01 wrote:
Tram wrote:
supaninja wrote:
The smoking gun...sweet! Now put a new head on it drive that thing.


Why? If the head's not cracked and the seat looks OK, lap another valve in, do the brake fluid test*, and slap it back on, Slappy.

*Fill your exhaust or intake port with brake fluid. Let it sit for half an hour. No brake fluid through the valve is perfect, a little bit weeping through is acceptable, but if it disappears through the valve, it's not seating.


with temps that thing reached, it is well and truly toast.

the metallurgy of the head is now useless.

replace the head.


you can see in the pics that head it warped like a banana (evidence of not sealing evenly)


Rolling Eyes


Rolling Eyes


Vlad, you can't see shit in that photo as far as "warping", and I'm really beginning to doubt that you have any actual hands- on experience in serious VW wrenching.


I can guarantee that will be warped to some extent and much weakened. Yes the photo its great but you can still see how bad that head is.

why when new heads are available would you attempt to repair a burned out 40+ year old crusty of head? that makes no sense when the costing of repairs run with what head/s would cost brand new.

only time I would fix an old head it when they NLA and even then I would go source few 2nd ones to choose the best for reconditioning.


I seriously doubt you consider all accepts of what you are looking at when you look at it.

yes? the photo you can't tell much? so how is it look repairable to you when you can't even tell what fabric texture you are looking at on your monitor Laughing


35+ years of experience in dealing with this stuff.


35+ of stubbornness. times change, nothing ever stays the same.

no point arguing will you anymore. I am finish waiting my time.
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Tram
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vlad01 wrote:
Tram wrote:
vlad01 wrote:
Tram wrote:
vlad01 wrote:
Tram wrote:
vlad01 wrote:
Tram wrote:
supaninja wrote:
The smoking gun...sweet! Now put a new head on it drive that thing.


Why? If the head's not cracked and the seat looks OK, lap another valve in, do the brake fluid test*, and slap it back on, Slappy.

*Fill your exhaust or intake port with brake fluid. Let it sit for half an hour. No brake fluid through the valve is perfect, a little bit weeping through is acceptable, but if it disappears through the valve, it's not seating.


with temps that thing reached, it is well and truly toast.

the metallurgy of the head is now useless.

replace the head.


you can see in the pics that head it warped like a banana (evidence of not sealing evenly)


Rolling Eyes


Rolling Eyes


Vlad, you can't see shit in that photo as far as "warping", and I'm really beginning to doubt that you have any actual hands- on experience in serious VW wrenching.


I can guarantee that will be warped to some extent and much weakened. Yes the photo its great but you can still see how bad that head is.

why when new heads are available would you attempt to repair a burned out 40+ year old crusty of head? that makes no sense when the costing of repairs run with what head/s would cost brand new.

only time I would fix an old head it when they NLA and even then I would go source few 2nd ones to choose the best for reconditioning.


I seriously doubt you consider all accepts of what you are looking at when you look at it.

yes? the photo you can't tell much? so how is it look repairable to you when you can't even tell what fabric texture you are looking at on your monitor Laughing


35+ years of experience in dealing with this stuff.


35+ of stubbornness. times change, nothing ever stays the same.

no point arguing will you anymore. I am finish waiting my time.


How does changing times affect the laws of physics, pray tell?

I think all of your time is a waste sometimes.
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Bryan67 wrote:
Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools.


To best contact me, please use the EMAIL function in my profile
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Slow 1200
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 11:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the seat doesn't look good (that's my x-ray vision at work of course), but anyway I'll take it to the machine shop and we'll see what they say
I'd rather keep the 311 heads Very Happy

and anyway if I replace one head I'd have to buy two so they're matching...not that cheap if you ask me
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