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Sound deadening on the floor
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RIOMX
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 10:23 am    Post subject: Sound deadening on the floor Reply with quote

I've looked at many old threads on sound deadening and it doesn't appear there is a consensus on applying sound deadener to floors. Some people have posted photos having done it, and others have cautioned against trapping moisture.

What is the definitive answer? Is it a bad idea to apply Fatmat or Dynamat to floors?

I'm aiming to apply sound deadener this weekend, so I'm trying to decide whether to get 50 and just do the area above the engine, behind the firewall and the sides; or get 100 square feet and do the floor in the cabin as well the front.

Thanks in advance.
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess it depends if you use your bus or not and whether it ever rains where you live.
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I am not telling you what to, or what not to do. When a suggestion is offered, it is wishing you the best, & is based on my experiences as a mechanic, automotive machinist, & from racing in the era your bus came to life.
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mojogoat
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Common sense will apply, if precautions are taken use can use most anything, a good paint over over the areas covered, and do not create a situation where moisture can collect. Not removing existing rust will guarantee a problem in the future. I have been use roofing products as undercoats and sound deadening for years and they work quite well for the cost. I always spray undercoating inside doors and areas that get wet. Be skeptical with any reply that includes "never and always" because you may "put your eye out".
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RIOMX
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
I guess it depends if you use your bus or not and whether it ever rains where you live.


Daily driver from 2009-2010. Summer camper every year since 2011.

And yes, it does rain here in Colorado. Thankfully not too bad, though.
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curtis4085
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't put it On floors. Special anything visible.

Floors get removable rubber mat and or carpet. You can buy under mat insulation threw justkampers for extra sound deadening in these areas
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RIOMX
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mojogoat wrote:
Common sense will apply, if precautions are taken use can use most anything, a good paint over over the areas covered, and do not create a situation where moisture can collect. Not removing existing rust will guarantee a problem in the future. I have been use roofing products as undercoats and sound deadening for years and they work quite well for the cost. I always spray undercoating inside doors and areas that get wet. Be skeptical with any reply that includes "never and always" because you may "put your eye out".


Thanks. I take an objective approach and look at all arguments before making a decision.

However, I've already paid for quite a bit of metal repair to undo what an AC unit installed by a dealer did over 30 years, so I'm very cautious about trapping moisture on the floor.

Also, the floor has been sprayed by a previous owner, so at least that's taken care of.
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mojogoat
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't strike me as a person who would let water leak into or sit anywhere in any of your vehicles. Neglect is the #1 cause of rust. So unless you are planning on using a sponge as underlayment, you shouldn't have a problem with most any product. Also, undercoating the vehicle will add greatly to your sound abatement. I am currently repairing rust areas and soundproofing/undercoating. The rubber roof coat products are great for that. I've started with the engine compartment and fuel tank area. I'm in the process of cleaning and undercoating the under carriage.
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mnskmobi
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 7:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Sound deadening on the floor Reply with quote

RIOMX wrote:
I've looked at many old threads on sound deadening and it doesn't appear there is a consensus on applying sound deadener to floors. Some people have posted photos having done it, and others have cautioned against trapping moisture.

What is the definitive answer? Is it a bad idea to apply Fatmat or Dynamat to floors?

I'm aiming to apply sound deadener this weekend, so I'm trying to decide whether to get 50 and just do the area above the engine, behind the firewall and the sides; or get 100 square feet and do the floor in the cabin as well the front.

Thanks in advance.


When you say "sides" do you mean just the sides around the engine area? If so, you should consider doing the doors, including the sliding door, and any other section of metal such as the nose, the other side from the sliding door and the areas above the wheels. I am slowly going through the same process with Dynamat and my observation is that below highway speeds the biggest source of noise is (was) the engine. Above, it is road and wind noise.
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RIOMX
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 8:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Sound deadening on the floor Reply with quote

mnskmobi wrote:


When you say "sides" do you mean just the sides around the engine area? If so, you should consider doing the doors, including the sliding door, and any other section of metal such as the nose, the other side from the sliding door and the areas above the wheels. I am slowly going through the same process with Dynamat and my observation is that below highway speeds the biggest source of noise is (was) the engine. Above, it is road and wind noise.


By sides I meant the area behind the sink and the cooler, and on the sliding door. I definitely want to do the area above the engine and the fuel tank. It's extremely loud, even with carpet and cushion already covering it.

By the way, this may help you out as well. Earlier today a friend of mine who restores buses professionally gave this advice:

"Like most aftermarket products you generally get what you pay for. I have always used Dynamat Xtreme which always scores very high in the NVH deadening department. FatMat is a good alternative. I go through amazon.com for the lowest price for the xtreme bulk pack, which is the best value.

I like this write-up. http://www.caraudio.com/forums/audio-technix/516676-huge-deadener-comparison.html

The key areas in a bus in order:
Front and rear wheelwells
front floor
above the motor
doors (all)
in front of the fuel tank

If you have a Westy interior with the proper insulation it isn't necessary to line the walls but it does help."

I trust him - his 78 Westy is so quiet that it's relaxing to drive. Mine, on the other hand, is physically and mentally straining. It feels like I'm being shaken around in a tin can the entire drive to camping sites.
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Hoody
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a lot of misinformation out there about sound deadening. Mostly planted by the companies that sell the products. For instance when sound deadening a panel such as behind the sink or a door all that is needed is a large square in the middle of the panel. Something like 25% coverage of the panel is all that is needed to properly deaden the sound. I am about to do my entire Bus and after lots of research and a lot of real time feedback from those who have done it I have come to the conclusion that the one place to avoid sound deadening is above the engine compartment. The reason being if you can't hear your engine you will miss any obvious noises that will be big red flags. As far as the floor goes as I am doing the indented areas with long strips not covering the paint drain holes. Doing the entire floor is overkill and you will run into issues when you refit the floor sub floor and carpet. I am using my sound deadening as a place to adhere my Low-e insulation so I do not need to spray unwanted adhesive everywhere. For the front floor I am going to adhere 1/8 inch reinforced rubber to my original carpet. Hope this helps.
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RIOMX
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hoody wrote:
There is a lot of misinformation out there about sound deadening. Mostly planted by the companies that sell the products. For instance when sound deadening a panel such as behind the sink or a door all that is needed is a large square in the middle of the panel. Something like 25% coverage of the panel is all that is needed to properly deaden the sound. I am about to do my entire Bus and after lots of research and a lot of real time feedback from those who have done it I have come to the conclusion that the one place to avoid sound deadening is above the engine compartment. The reason being if you can't hear your engine you will miss any obvious noises that will be big red flags. As far as the floor goes as I am doing the indented areas with long strips not covering the paint drain holes. Doing the entire floor is overkill and you will run into issues when you refit the floor sub floor and carpet. I am using my sound deadening as a place to adhere my Low-e insulation so I do not need to spray unwanted adhesive everywhere. For the front floor I am going to adhere 1/8 inch reinforced rubber to my original carpet. Hope this helps.


Thanks for taking time to post - I appreciate it. I've read what you said about only adhering parts of deadening to panel and I've seen photos of people doing that as well.

I think what we'll do for this round is do the high priority areas first and see how it goes. If it still sounds loud afterward, I don't mind taking the interior out and redoing it until I get it right.
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Hoody
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 9:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When it comes to sound deadening "Less is more" good luck, let us know how it goes.
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