help me cure death wobbles.....

[Desertbusman]

Pics don't look that bad. Maybe a couple little issues here and there. Nothing to be concerned about. Maybe you just need to check the air pressure. Your wheels won't fit a '71 but if you drilled some new holes the '71 wheels might work out ok on your '70. But your hubcaps wouldn't fit.
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71 Superbug
71 Westy

[Ubergoober]

[Lucas Grams]

I am thinking better to take a whole beam from your '71 or '79. Set your '70 up with drum brakes. I am so done with drums.

[erikgundy98]

Even with an empty westy, on a steep downward hill, when applying the brakes, one or both front wheels shake horrifically. Sometimes the passenger, sometimes the drivers side, sometimes both. I let the foot off the brake, shaking goes right away. On the freeway, no shakes. Around town, no shakes. But on a hill, with the weight of the bus on the front wheels- man it scares the crap out of even me when I am driving.

I lifted the passenger side first, and gave the tire a good shake. It moves. Lug nuts are tight. I took off the tire/rim, and I was able to move the disc. Hmmm. The bearings appear to be greased up- but I wanted to see if removing the nut and taking out the bearings is the only option, or if tightening them uo is a reasonable "adjustment" - or if that would not work. My nut has an allen nut on it which I believe if I loosen it up, I would be able to tighten the axle nut.

I wasnt sure last week, and I couldnt find my allen wrenches, so I put the wheel back on, and we went to Mt. St Helens again. It didnt act any differently. But again, on the way down the steep, going really slow, 25 mph, it shook again.
Suggestions?
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'90 Multivan Westfalia

[Davala]

Tighten up that bearing! Sounds like its increadibly dangerous to drive. The bearing is obviously worn down. Just tighten enough to remove the play.

Plan on new wheel bearings soon. Especially with a lot of summer driving ahead.

-
Md.

[erikgundy98]

When I read the bently, it too says to tighten it up, but doesnt mention the torque for the nut. Is that because it has the allen locking nut on the nut? Or was i just not reading it right.
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'90 Multivan Westfalia

[bigbore]

Oh boy you need to read you book better don't just skim through it read it. you have to SET the wheel bearing with that nut then lock it with the allen. I just look it up in the Bentley and you most likely don't have a dial indicator so all you have to do to set the bearing is (some guys do it differently but heres my way) you lightly tighten the nut as you do grab the tire at 12 and 6 and wiggle it as you turn the nut the play go's away when the play is all gone lock it down some guys turn the nut just a little more 1/8 turn at most. I also do this way there is a washer behind the nut as you tighten the nut you should be able to move that washer behind the nut with a screwdriver without much drag. you can feel as the nut just grabs the washer as you tighten the nut you are trying to set the bearing at 0 lash (no end play) the first way is easier.
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where its cold and snowy

[erikgundy98]

Ok, so I set the bearing. But now the brake pads rub the disc enough that it is hard to turn. Hmm.

I know how to adjust a drum brake... but I have never had a problem with pads grabbing pads and not letting go. I can only think the caliper would be bad, but it worked fine before the tightening of the axle nut. When i loosen it up (even an 1/8th turn), I can shake the tire back and forth (hence the need for tightening up the bearing nut).

I will look at the caliper to see- but I wondered if this alearts any of you to give experiencial advice

Thanks!
Erik
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'90 Multivan Westfalia

[Randy in Maine]

Do you know how to check for excessive runout on the rotor using a dial indicator? I am thinking that you are only allowed a few 0.001".

That will tell you if the rotors are warped.

[babysnakes]

So the hub turns with the bearings loose, but not so with them tight? Did you or the PO do the brakes or bearings last? When I did the brakes on my '72 I had a similar issue. I had to shim the caliper with a thin washer to offset them so the dics would spin. Early calipers can be hard to find and most parts houses don't differentiate between the two. I have over 20K with no issues.

[busdaddy]

[SGKent]

I am thinking that anyone who has brake problems from a wheel bearing being too loose needs to go thru the front brakes and the wheel bearings. I don't think one can take a well I will adjust my way out of this one attitude. If I was working on that car and you asked me to do a job like that (1) the answer is no. We fix it right or nothing (2) you sign a waiver that I told you not to drive it until it is fixed. But I can't afford it or don't know how may get you killed, especially on mountain roads.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[erikgundy98]

I tightened the bearing as per the bently and your recommendations.

Took bus around the bock and the rubbing of the disc on the inside pad stopped. I should have waited to post my concern (the last post).

I checked things over before reading the above Post. Prior to Tightening the bearing i could wiggle the tire and it was obvious it needed tightening. The brakes are good but not new. Lots of life on front pads and discs.

I pumped almost a whole tube of grease into the 5 lubricant fittings on the front axle- so i assume it needed a good one over.

I visually looked at all of the ball joints, and none of the rubber is cracked or old looking. However- there is a small piston (looks like a small shock- but sideways and part of the steering) and it's old and looks original. Should I replace this?

Thanks for scaring the crap out of me.
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'90 Multivan Westfalia

[SGKent]

what you need to do is get in the habit for a while when you pull into the garage at night and no other cars are around to hit you, put your hand down near but not on the front wheels. See if the heat coming off them is equal. If the one that was loose is hotter you may have a bearing going bad. They are not designed to run loose like yours did.

Glad you caught it when you did.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[erikgundy98]

I havent gone to the local vw shop yet- but Im sure willing to spend the money if it wasnt supposed to loosen up like that.

When I was looking over posts (prior to posting here), I saw recommendations to "do a complete rebuild" of the wheel - and that sounded like a much larger project that I was comfortable with. Now that i have taken the bearing out and back in again, Im tempted to put in a new bearing. Any drawback to doing so (other than cost)?

thanks for your advice.
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'90 Multivan Westfalia

[Wildthings]

Front bearings are pretty cheap. If you have any doubt about yours then just replace them and the seal. It is possible to inspect them for wear and damage, but you really need experience to do this well.

It is normal for disc brakes to drag after then have been applied but not driven. There are no return springs or anything else to cause the pistons to retract, just the force of the rotor beating them back in normal driving.

Sounds like some old school mechanic had adjusted your front wheel bearings as was specified on many old rigs. Tighten the nut till the play is gone and then back the nut off 1/4 turn. Doing so will leave you with excessive play on a VW.

[Randy in Maine]