trials and tribs of buying used engines

[airkooledchris]

a month back I picked up a used engine from a 79 bus, as a few months back I picked up a 79 bus with no engine. (well, no case, but it came with the heads and P&C from a few year old rebuild by a quality shop with quality parts)

Here is the used motor:

Ive been slowly cleaning it up to throw in this bus, and I decided to do the pushrod tube seals as a few of them were leaking.

I hadn't carefully inspected the underside of the motor yet, when I found my first snag:

First, the stud on the left is bent, so ill have to try and remove that one to replace it (or beat it back into shape, in place)

But that other stud, on the right in this shot, is broken off just before that staggered bit of threads would appear. There was about 2 turns of thread barely showing on there, so I stuck a nut on there and smeared some JB Weld onto it. Im assuming that i'll just end up spinning the nut free of the JB Weld when I try it, so how the H do I extract that stud from the head with no threads showing? have someone come over and weld the nut to the stud and then try wrenching it off?



I figured I may as well start the pushrod tube seals while I figure out what to do with this exhaust stud, and that's when I noticed this hiding under the rocker assembly:

my heart sank when I saw this. it's probably a whole GEX motor, or at the very least one of their heads. it's too bad since the motor is actually pretty clean otherwise. now im half tempted to just pull these stupid heads and swap on the known good ones I have in a box on the shelf. Maybe even swap out the P@C while im at it with the other set from the good build. Both motors were from 79 busses, so they both have hydraulic lifters and matching cam.

[fastfil]

Can you get a small pipe wrench onto it? There are also stud removal sockets that work great for jobs like that. Probably a wise investment for working on 30+ yo motors.

Don't forget to give it some hearty taps with hammer on the top of the stud to help break the thread's bite (if you don't have heat).
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"...swingaxle...transaxle...same diff."

[Mal evolent]

if you have the nut welded to the head the stud will get vwery hot and expand. when it gets cool it will contract more than the aluminum and come out very easy.
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73 Beetle Baja, Ghia front brakes, Type 3 rear brakes, 2220 ( 94 X 80 ), Weber Progressive, Bosch SVDA, '97 Mustang seats

Baja Bugs for Volkswagen Virgins: Index

[airkooledchris]

Pipe wrench didn't fit well, and the smoothness of the stud without threads was impossible to get a tight enough grasp onto.
Ive been hitting it with penetrating fluid for a few days now.

I finally went out and hacksawed a slit in it and then used my impact screwdriver and the BFH to back it out 1/8th of a turn at a time. Once I was about halfway out I could just muscle it the rest of the way with my big screwdriver.

It was such a release to finally get that sucker out of there - it was like I finally had a BM after a week of being plugged.
AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

[Cusser]

[scotth17]

Be sure to wipe well....

[vw57drvr]

Those type IV engines are tough. I wouldnt discount it yet just because GEX had a hand on it. They probably just put fresh bearings and rings in it and sent it on its way.
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60 Rock Grey Vert