Oil light blinking, engine seems to be overheating?

[ColoradoWesty82]

I just bought an 82 air cooled westy the other day. It was about two hours from my house and on the way home the engine light started blinking at the end of the trip. I was about 10 minutes from home and made it:) While this was happening it seemed as if the engine was bucking, but their was no sound like a back fire. My wife was behind me and said she saw some black smoke coming out the muffler(small puffs)?

So first thing I did was an oil change as the previous owner said it was due. I used 10w-30 fully synthetic oil and replaced the filter with an STP s16 filter.

Yesterday our first camping trip was planned. Off to the grocery store and then to the camp site. About 1/2 hour into the trip the engine light started blinking and I felt the bucking, so I pulled over to let the engine cool down because it was hot, even the back bumper was hot. After 15 minutes I tried to start it but it would not turn over.

Waited another 15 minutes and she started up another 10-15 minutes to the camp site and she was over heated oil light blinking and stalled as we limped into our site.

This morning when I stared her up a big cloud of white smoke came out of the muffler, but then none after that. We made it home but upon arrival I smelled burnt oil though I never saw the light, but I am sure it was not far behind.

I am going to see an awesome vw mechanic on Sat, just want to know if there is anything I can do in the meantime and if it is safe to drive it to him, about 20 minutes away. Also would love to know if anyone else has had similar problems.

Thank you in advance!
And so begins my 82 air cooled adventure:)

[MarkWard]

Could you post a picture of the instrument cluster? The 82 had an oil pressure warning light that would be on or off. It was not designed to flash a warning. Air Cooled Vanagons do throw some heat. I think you really need to verify what the oil pressure is. A mechanical oil pressure gauge connected directly to the engine will tell you. It is possible you have an electrical problem and the bucking and the oil light flashing is an indication of an electrical gremlin. The not turning over when you stopped is also not an uncommon problem. Are you sure it is the oil light and not the alternator light? Sounds like you have a lot to do. 10-30 for the summer seems a little low even in synthetic if the engine is worn. Post a picture of the engine compartment too. Might be able to see something else. For an air cooled engine to cool properly, the thermostat needs to be functioning and all the tin work needs to be there and sealed to the sides of the engine compartment. All cooling air needs to enter from the rear pillars.
_________________
☮️

[danfromsyr]

welcome to the fold
sorry to say these 1st lessons in vintage auto mechanics are pricey.

is your engine a California model or a Federal model? Cali will have a catalytic and Oxygen sensor. a faulty O2 sensor can cause bucking and rich operation. unplug it if you do and see if symptoms persist of stop.
also a rich engine will make the Catalytic run very hot. this is dependant of if you have a Cali or federal of course.

did you check the oil level?
10/30 is too thin for an older/aged aircooled engine (IMO)
oil should be no less than 20/50 weight for summer (all season) use.

how is the Ignition timing?

are the heater boxes hooked up? they MUST have airflow thru them all the time.. there's a plastic tube from the Alt fan supplies air into the heat exchangers.

how much of a "deal" did you get if the seller couldn't even
#1 change the oil fresh
#2 van can't make a 2hr drive from sellers place...

saving money sometimes costs alot in the end..
you came to the right place, we may have alot of bad news but we'll try to offer useful advice..

you will want to have ALL of your fuel lines changed as a preventaive maintenence (fires burn up vans) use 5/16" SAE 30R9 hose and even change the short hoses on the injectors.
_________________

[ColoradoWesty82]

I posted the pictures in my gallery so you all could take a look. Sure am glad I am going to see a good mechanic on Sat to get me started. I paid 5000 for the car knowing I was going to have to put a lot of work into it, but I think the seller might have over stated the reliability of the current engine.

Thanks.

[MarkWard]

Ok, which of the 3 lights on the right is blinking? Top, middle or bottom? The picture of the engine compartment is too close a shot. I can't see the compartment seal, but it sure is dusty. That might indicate dirt is coming up from the road. There should also be a metal heat shield above the muffler and cat if equiped.

_________________
☮️

[ColoradoWesty82]

Middle light is blinking. The rubber seal around the engine is not tight! I have a feeling I have a lot of work in my future. Luckily it is not my daily driver and I bought it this summer in the hopes of having it all dialed in by next summer.

[xoo00oox]

If you drive these air cooled vans wrong you can quickly ruin them. They need to be revved rather than lugged. The faster the engine turns, the more cool air there is blown over the heads, cylinders, oil cooler, and exhaust.
As a VW shop owner, I have seen it way too many times. A customer has an aircooled VW that they have had for years with never having an over-heat issue and they either loan it to a friend or sell it and they next day the engine is baked and ruined.
Perhaps the seller did not over-state the reliability. I have only once seen one damaged by over-revving. A couple stoned hippies leaving one of the Woodstock concerts had their bus revved up third, and in trying to get the sloppy shifter into fourth it instead went to second. They let the clutch out, the engine screamed, the valve springs could not keep up, and the rocker arms broke.

Andrew-

[MarkWard]

[dr. no]

Assuming it is the oil pressure light... there is no "engine" light.
Although not desireable, this does come on at idle, when hot, in a lot (most...) VWs. It is sensitive to temperature, oil level and oil quality/quantity.
Solutions:
1. seal all oil leaks in the engine compartment
2. change oil as above
3. change all fuel lines (do this with any new-to-you old vehicle)
4. have ignition timing checked by someone who really knows how on an air-cooled VW. One test is to ask if they recommend a 009 distributor. If they do, run away. It takes very little to be off in the timing and fatally overheat your engine.

As for the bucking and non-starting, this could be the "temp II" sensor, a notoriously obnoxious part of the otherwise reliable fuel injection system.
_________________
Scott
http://lungehphoto.com

'83.5 Westy s/p 1.6td JX and 4sp DK transplant--wonderful!
'86 MB 300GD
'06 MB Sprinter
'17 BMW X1
'89 Isuzu Trooper


PAST VWs:
'82 NA diesel Vanagon
'86 7-passenger Vanagon
'77 Bay
'71 Bay
'74 Things (2)
'69 Karmann Ghia (the only one I miss--in nice weather, anyway...)
'91 Fox

[ColoradoWesty82]

It was the distributor and really old spark plugs. Problem solved.

[Ukekuke]

Yay lucky you..................always check engine oil level.
Have someone with knowledge.....(Sat) check it out thourghly
I wanted this and my wife was hesitant.

My engine is out on the ground now.

I never said "i told you i wanted too" but she now knows.

I WAS RIGHT.

have fun and camp the hell out of the camper.

[reluctantartist]

Go over the engine compartment and make sure all the seals are intact. That includes the license plate door seal too. Good to read about another aircooled on the road.
_________________
1982 Westy, 1974 412 Variant... Yes, Aircooled's are great! Oh and I do have modern computer controlled vehicles too, but I just don't care about them.

[E1]

[ColoradoWesty82]

Ordered a new fuel pump and hard start relay kit which I will install next week. Also changed out all the fuel lines. Man I love my Air Cooled. Also thanks for the advice on running at higher RPM, that seems to be helping as well.

It also helps that I found the Yoda of Air cooled engines living in my town!

[Wildthings]