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Kick Azz 1975 LaGrande Super Rebuild
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RottenApple
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2013 7:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What an engine, what a build and what an epic dad you are. Loving all the work keep it up Smile and it sounds sweet.
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Gonzo1970
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2013 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now THATS an Engine!

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-Gonz
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Nate M.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2013 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I want to thank Brent and Ethan for allowing me the privilege to assist them in the planning and build of this motor. I had a great time with you all as this motor came together. An epic week for sure. Ethan did a fantastic job building this engine!! Even with 3-piece push rod tubes, a deep sump and bolt-on valve covers, it didn't leak a single drop of oil!! Not too shabby for a first engine build Wink

Thanks also to Mario (www.thedubshop.net) for coming out to ProVolks and working his MS magic and making the roar of this beast a reality. Man, am I glad you're local!!
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For heaven's sake, put a type4 and a Porsche 5-speed in there. . . It's the right thing to do!!
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 9:08 am    Post subject: Just for fun: Royze No. 64112 engine rebuild kit Reply with quote

I found this in an old box. I used to keep it in the glove box of my bug for emergencies. Maybe I'll pass it down from father to son like the family heirloom it is.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image of Royze No. 64112 engine rebuild kit
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1975 LaGrande Super Beetle Build Log / Farm boy hinge pin puller / Farm Boy Chassis Rotisserie
"I'm not getting older, I'm getting bitter."
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Hyperspace
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That on is for the 1500sp...
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 10:04 am    Post subject: Test fit body to chassis, AC condenser & oil cooler Reply with quote

We finished the test assembly of the chassis:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Rolled it into the other bay of the barn and placed the body onto it:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


There seems to be an infinite number of pan bolts involved. All lovingly wire wheeled and anti-seized by my son. Body washers bead blasted, DP-90 2k Epoxy Primer and Industrial enamel:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



We have a lot of plans for the largely empty area above and to the sides of the transmission. To check out the fit of things, we installed the transmission and did some test fitting.

Test fitting the ICE AC condenser:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


We will use two 400 CFM Derale Tornado 7" fans on the condenser to push/pull air through it:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



The CB Atomic Cool oil cooler also has a Derale fan. I loves my matching. We think it will fit OK on the other side:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


We may be able to get some ground effect with all those fans running Smile
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 10:17 am    Post subject: Thanks! Reply with quote

Thanks to all of you (RottenApple, Gonzo1970, Nate M., chicagovw, Mavelotta, JayO, Geoffffreak, Roark_8, mfergel, Hyperspace to name just a few) that have passed on encouraging words. And to anyone else who has taken the time to look at this thread Smile
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 10:33 pm    Post subject: Installing Metra 44-UA40 Antenna Reply with quote

My son installed the Metra 44-UA40 Antenna today.

This is an amplified antenna, so to use it with a regular old stereo, you also need a antenna adapter that supplies power to the antenna's amplifier.

You need a 14.5mm square hole. He cut it with the Dremel. He did a great job, nice and straight, with a very close fit that keeps the antenna square and sturdy:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This antenna has a nice 90 degree cable exit:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Looking good:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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1975 LaGrande Super Beetle Build Log / Farm boy hinge pin puller / Farm Boy Chassis Rotisserie
"I'm not getting older, I'm getting bitter."


Last edited by baxsie on Sun Aug 11, 2013 11:19 pm; edited 1 time in total
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 10:54 pm    Post subject: Super Beetle Trim Blasphemy Reply with quote

If you are a purist, you probably have not made it very far in this thread. But just in case you made it here anyway there is VW blasphemy ahead. Fair warning . . . .

I always felt ripped off that neither of my bugs had a Wolfsburg crest. Then this 1975 super comes along and it does not even have a VW logo on the hood.

Well, it is our car, we can do what we want . . . and we did:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The trim is the "wide" style, in stainless. Part of that is because we like the look, the other part is that this body has been "dechromed" and te wider trim can take a little pressure off the body folks there. We put the VW logo back in its rightful place:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


And planted a wolfsburg crest right where it should be:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


We got two Wolfsburg crests (from Wolfsburg West of course), one was low cost, the other is supposedly a "real" one. Here is a compare from the front:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is a compare from the side. The real one fits the hood brilliantly, snugging down over the body ridge:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
1975 LaGrande Super Beetle Build Log / Farm boy hinge pin puller / Farm Boy Chassis Rotisserie
"I'm not getting older, I'm getting bitter."


Last edited by baxsie on Mon Aug 12, 2013 7:29 am; edited 1 time in total
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 11:17 pm    Post subject: Do these tires make my bug look fat? Reply with quote

We put the front fenders and tires on. Here is a pic from the side. We ballasted the trunk with 200 lbs of sand in an attempt to make up for so much stuff not installed on the car:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


A shot from the front shows that the tire is outside of the fenders:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Confirmed from the rear:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Lining up carefully from the top shows that the drivers side sticks out ~3/4 inch, the passenger side ~3/8 inch. We know that the passenger side metal is tweaked, which probably accounts for that difference.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


We messed with the camber on the drivers side, finally got it to be "not crazy out of spec". We are just using a level and a digital degree meter, so I would not claim to be close, but we are probably within 2 degrees.

We can tweak the camber in slightly more if we use the TopLine race bolts (they are slightly smaller, and allow the spindle to be shifted on the strut) we can get the camber right on, and the wheel does not look so bad, but by then the tire is rubbing on the spring.

Turning the wheels stop-to-stop, things are DAMN close, but do not quite rub.

So we are not too far in, but we cannot go any farther in, that is for sure.

So I am not sure what to do:

1) let the gravel spray

2) skinnier tires (these are 215)

3) skinnier tires, combined with a deeper offset wheel.

4) wider fenders (is there such a thing?)

Suggestions?
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RottenApple
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 8:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would personally in ths build go with wider fenders the kafer cup ones would look ideal on your build Wink e.g this rather tasty number
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Or u can widen them yourself, i'm sure a few on here have done before or can post u a link to guy doing it near me.
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cortexgunner92
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Picked a Hurst shifter out of one of the Super Beetles at the local pull and save for six bucks Very Happy, all the parts appear to be here, the plastic is cracked a bit but I don't think it's much a problem.

-just a little update for those keeping score-

Also, test fitted the seats, man they're comfy..pics to come m8s.
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Maddel
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a quick link - there are other resources for sure:
Widened front fenders: http://www.creativecarcraft.com/super.htm
The pre '67 headlight version allows you to fit Porsche 911 headlights too.
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 10:40 pm    Post subject: CB 1771 Breather box vs. MST Billet Alternator Stand Reply with quote

==== REPLIES ====================================================
Maddel wrote:
. . . Widened front fenders: http://www.creativecarcraft.com/super.htm . . .

How much wider are those fiberglas ones? I thought I read 3", if that is true our little 205's will be lost in that huge hole Sad My body guy was not excited about fiberglas, but maybe he has not seen the "good" ones.

I really only need about 1.25" wider.

RottenApple wrote:
I would personally in this build go with wider fenders . . . u can widen them yourself, i'm sure a few on here have done before or can post u a link to guy doing it near me.

I would love to see a good widening link Smile The only DIY pic I saw looked like a train wreck.

==== NEW POST ====================================================
I have been trying to figure out a good breather box solution. I like the CB Performance breather box:
http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1771

(a bit like EMPI's: http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C13-17-2941 )

but we already have the MST Red Billet Alt/Gen stand:
http://216.85.143.142/ProductDetails.aspx?id=102&IsChild=1

and the CompuFire "90A" alternator:
http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2187

My hopes of three aftermarket parts lining up were not high, and I was not disappointed.

At first things looked pretty good, and I am thinking "It bolts right up. Nice":
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The my son took a look and pointed out that it was crooked. D'oh!:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


So I measured the angle, drew the line and used the belt sander to make it angled:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I made a spacer to back it away from the alternator, we happened to have some perfect pipe (cut with band saw, plane smooth with the belt sander). Once that was done, the nut thing had less thread engagement than I would like, so I used a carbide bur and an air die grinder to remove material from the inside to make the lip a consistent 5mm thick:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now the nut thing fits in well, following the new angle and still has plenty of threads exposed:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


In order to be able to get the cover off to service the foam (I'll need to get some from an Briggs & Stratton Air Cleaner, CB does not provide any) I needed to clearance the alternator:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


And the breather lid:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


A lot of work, but it fits well and looks teh bomb:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


==== EDIT: ADDING FOAM =============================================
I saw a pic of the EMPI breather that shows it has foam in the top of it. I kind of assumed that the CB breather would also have foam, but it does not. I was trying to think of a very breathable foam that would withstand engine oil. I came up with the foam from Briggs and Stratton engine air cleaners. I used the screen material to make a locating screens to hold the new foam in place:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The foam is cut slightly oversize to assure a seal against the walls of the breather:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I used the B&S screen to hold the foam off the outlet ports. If the foam pushes up against the ports it greatly restricts the flow. The screens make sure the entire surface of the foam is unrestricted:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
1975 LaGrande Super Beetle Build Log / Farm boy hinge pin puller / Farm Boy Chassis Rotisserie
"I'm not getting older, I'm getting bitter."


Last edited by baxsie on Sun Aug 25, 2013 10:21 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Jamies74sb
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 12:47 am    Post subject: Re: Test fit body to chassis, AC condenser & oil cooler Reply with quote

baxsie wrote:
We finished the test assembly of the chassis:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Rolled it into the other bay of the barn and placed the body onto it:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


There seems to be an infinite number of pan bolts involved. All lovingly wire wheeled and anti-seized by my son. Body washers bead blasted, DP-90 2k Epoxy Primer and Industrial enamel:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



We have a lot of plans for the largely empty area above and to the sides of the transmission. To check out the fit of things, we installed the transmission and did some test fitting.

Test fitting the ICE AC condenser:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


We will use two 400 CFM Derale Tornado 7" fans on the condenser to push/pull air through it:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



The CB Atomic Cool oil cooler also has a Derale fan. I loves my matching. We think it will fit OK on the other side:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


We may be able to get some ground effect with all those fans running Smile


I'm running the Gilmore a/c kit it's a Lot better + the evaperator is under the hood those ice kits are not the best Gilmore has dual condensers with 12" fans . I ran my oil cooler in the middle of the top of the trani . Your stock oil cooler dumps all the hot air where u have the condenser . The cooler the condenser gets the colder it is in side the cab .
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 19, 2013 1:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Test fit body to chassis, AC condenser & oil cooler Reply with quote

Jamies74sb wrote:
I'm running the Gilmore a/c kit it's a Lot better + the evaperator is under the hood those ice kits are not the best Gilmore has dual condensers with 12" fans . I ran my oil cooler in the middle of the top of the trani . Your stock oil cooler dumps all the hot air where u have the condenser . The cooler the condenser gets the colder it is in side the cab .

Ya. We looked at the Gilmore kit ( http://www.gilmore-enterprises.net/Air/Beetle.htm# ), and tried to weight the options back and forth.

The thing that steered me away from the Gilmore is that we live in an area with lots of gravel roads, sand on the roads in the winter, lots of snow in the winter. The Gilmore condensers appear to be the lowest thing on the car, and the fragile fins appear to be completely unprotected:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The ICE AC makes some tradeoffs: you gain trunk space, but lose some leg room. They use the front super beetle "factory" AC condenser grill (which I like), but want to stick their "second" condenser in front of the fan air intake (can't have that).

One thing that sucks is it appears that ICE AC is out of business at worst, or has lost their domain name to squatters at best. There is still a copy of their site in the WayBack Machine:
http://web.archive.org/web/20130610135025/http://iceac.com/

I am hoping that the two 7" Derale fans on the "pre condenser" plus the stock ICE AC fan on the main condenser up front in the fresh air flow will be enough to keep it cool.

I do need to worry about where the stock oil cooler dumps its hot outlet air, and how that will interact with the condenser. At one time I had an idea for a "raised-luggage-compartment-floor air box" that would draw air from under the fender, but I have discarded that idea due to complexity:

http://baxsie.com/images/forum/bug/Air_Conditioning/Oil_Cooler_Mounting_Concept.pdf
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 24, 2013 4:33 pm    Post subject: Making Gas Door Release Inside Again Reply with quote

My 1972 flat window super 1302 had the gas door release inside the cabin, which was good. The 1973 - 1975 (and probably more) have spring loaded doors that you just open with your finger. Since the door does not protect from theft, locking gas caps are needed for those years. Locking gas caps suck.

So we took on teh project of adding the remote release gas door back to the 1975. We got a donor door and release pin. We removed the hinge and latch from the donor and placed them on the 1975 door:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The latch and hinge welded on. Still can't get the hang of making consistent welds. One good, 18 crappy:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Sins of welding forgiven with penance of grinder, sander, and bead blaster:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Latch located in the body:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Tracks of the pin on the latch show good alignment:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Finished gas door.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Still need to run a control cable to a handle somewhere in the cabin. Another project for another day.
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 10:40 pm    Post subject: Combining Oil Thermostat and Oil Cooler Fan Thermostat Reply with quote

We have the CB Oil Thermostat, which appears to be a Derale part. We also have a CB fan thermostat. It bothered me that these two parts are not combined, making the system more bulky and less reliable. Plus, the fan thermostat fitting is tapped all the way through for the switch's mounting stud, which could block flow and potentially leak.

The Fan Thermostat has a threaded 6-32 stud, so we drilled and threaded a blind hole in the body of the oil thermostat to accept the fan thermostat stud. We also had to clearance the arrow a bit so it set flush:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here it is installed:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 9:03 am    Post subject: Re: Making Gas Door Release Inside Again Reply with quote

baxsie wrote:
My 1972 flat window super 1302 had the gas door release inside the cabin, which was good. The 1973 - 1975 (and probably more) have spring loaded doors that you just open with your finger. Since the door does not protect from theft, locking gas caps are needed for those years. Locking gas caps suck.

So we took on teh project of adding the remote release gas door back to the 1975. We got a donor door and release pin. We removed the hinge and latch from the donor and placed them on the 1975 door:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The latch and hinge welded on. Still can't get the hang of making consistent welds. One good, 18 crappy:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Sins of welding forgiven with penance of grinder, sander, and bead blaster:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Latch located in the body:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Tracks of the pin on the latch show good alignment:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Finished gas door.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Still need to run a control cable to a handle somewhere in the cabin. Another project for another day.


Cool~! Are you going to fill in the indent in the body for the old style door?
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 26, 2013 6:37 pm    Post subject: Re: Making Gas Door Release Inside Again Reply with quote

Bashr52 wrote:
Cool~! Are you going to fill in the indent in the body for the old style door?

I won't . . . but I will ask the body shop guy to do it Smile
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