adjusting 30-31 pict 3 solex carburetor

[apchief]

SO I was adjusting my idle speed using instructions for a 34 pict which are completely different then the 31 pict, so now I am all out of whack.

IT seems the main difference is that at idle, the throttle butterfly should be completely closed on the 30-32 pict carb.

You're supposed to set the idle by turning out the air bypass screw.

Here's the thing, I cant seem to get the idle RPMS to change at all whether I am screwing it in or all the way out.

any ideas of where to start or how to get it back to factory settings?

[Rev. Scott]

screw large (idle) screw in until it seats lightly. Then back out 3 1/2 full turns.

Turn small (mixture) screw in until it seats lightly...then back out seven complete turns.

This should run. Engine warm, choke off...

...turn large screw to preferred idle (900 RPM's).

Turn small screw in until idle "dips" and then back out 1 1/2 full turns. Don't touch this screw again!

Now adjust large (idle) screw to preference.

...if that don't do it, ya got another problem.
_________________
"I haven't seen one of those since I was shootin' at 'em!"

[apchief]

how should the Fast Idle Adjuster screw be set? & should the flap be closed when I'm adjusting the carb?

thanks!

[Wildthings]

Got yourself a manual for a Type 1 engine, either a Bentley or a Haynes? I suspect Muir's Idiot Book has the info you need as well.

[Rev. Scott]

In my above instructions (which have proven to be bullet proof), the initial setting should make your motor run...well enough to get it warmed up and idling...then I just make the adjustments at idle as described.
_________________
"I haven't seen one of those since I was shootin' at 'em!"

[doublecanister]

Yeah on what Rev Scott says and a book is nice too!

also if you feel like going 1 step further.

I read that mucking with the carburator adjustments, even mi-nute ones can cause extreme exhaust fumes. i too have a pict 30/31 & 009 dizzy ib a 1600 engine.

Well I can say that is correct cause before i knew what I was doing i was crankin them screws willy nilly.

Well, on recently driving to Dover's "Thing show", I did a tune up of sorts,
did a valve adj
Timing adj
points and dwell
After all that I put on a 'vaccume guage" one of those 1man brake bleeder tools that doubles for a vac guage (attached it to a vacume port below the carb) and used it to help adjust the carb. I set the carb by the book to the default screw turn outs, then using the vac guage adjusted them to get the Highest needle/most stable needle settings i could.

I had to do this about 3 times but I got it finally and I noticed for the FIRST TIME EVER I had no exhaust fumes entering the cabin.

Now, fast forward about 500 miles later, I noticed last weekend i got a slight wiff of exhaust, but sundays drive with the top down i didnt notice any.

I learned this method from working on my 51 Ford truck, so i did it to all my vehicles and made them run way better and not stink from exhaust so much. The Book that comes with the 1 man brake bleeder tool (got from PEP BOYS) actually demos the needle patterens as to what's causing it , out of adj carb, leaking valves, blown head gaskets, etc. Nice little tool.

anyways, Good luck bro

T
______________
_________________
****************************************
2020 - Mustang Eco Boost [High Performance]
1973 - Thing
1966 - Mustang GT- Fastback
1951 - Ford F1 pickup Flathead V8

[gheezerghia]

Rev. Scott If your 30/31 is now jetted to 34 specs would you adjust it to the same or to 30/31 specs? Thanks for the help?