What to do with 2K and a 1600SP?

[FRNKNSTNGHIA]

Okay so I'm not looking to win any drag races or dyno competitions. I just want some honest answers/suggestions. I have 1600SP and 2,000 good ole American dollars to spend on it. What do you guys suggest? I was thinking dual carbs, nice exhaust system, good ignition, figured that would be like 1,000 of the budget, what else can I do? Should I go 90.5 pistons and a good cam with rockers? Going to get all engine tins powder coated and already have all stainless steel bolt kit for the tins. Really just want a nice looking and sounding engine, but if I can get some better than stock performance I would be extremely happy. Maybe in 5 years i'll build a full out motor.

[ALB]

Without splitting the crankcase- yes, dual carbs and 1 3/8" header/muffler. Getting the carbs drilled for a vacuum port (if they aren't already) and using an svda (combination mechanical/vacuum advance) distributor will give better mileage, otherwise an 019, 010 or 009 will work fine. An electronic points module will eliminate points wear and required maintenance, but won't increase spark strength (which you don't really need at this stage). If the motor had dual port heads I would recommend 1.4 ratio rockers for more valve lift and opening time (and better cylinder fill for more power), but I don't know how much the single port heads will benefit.

To spend some more of your money, a little more disassembly will be required. Dual port heads (even in stock form) flow way better than single ports and will let it breathe much better and work well with the carbs and exhaust. The 2 middle cylinder/head studs on top on each side will have to be changed for shorter ones. 1.4 rockers will compliment the combo nicely now; check out Kaddie Shack's comparison dyno graphs http://kaddieshack.com/1600dynoresults.html An honest 60-65 hp will be definitely more fun!

I would put a doghouse cooler/shroud (don't forget the wider fan) on it, for better cooling. If this is in an earlier beetle, some more air intake into the engine compartment will be needed as well. You will have overheating problems if the motor will out pace the engine compartment's ability to supply enough fresh air. If you have a Ghia, I don't know enough to comment.

If you still have money to spend, 90.5's, thickwall 92's or 94's with a mild cam (Engle W100 with 1.1 or 1.25 rockers, FK65 with the 1.4's or something similar) would be great, but now it's rebuild time, so add bearings, possibly a crankshaft grind, rod rebuilding, line bore, case and head machining for the bigger cylinders, a new oil pump, new lifters with the cam, a full flow cast iron oil pump cover, oil filter bracket and machining the oil return fitting into the case, and some oil hose to connect it all. You'll be in the 85-95 hp bracket, and it will feel like a totally different car! New shocks and a sway bar or 2 will also be a good idea for safety's sake.

You could also have the heads ported, and with a counter weighted crank (and a small stroker would be the same cost! ) use a slightly more aggressive cam for a whole bunch more power! , but now we're definitely past the $2,000 mark .

I'm sure people will chime in with the things I forgot. Al

PS- Does anybody know how a single port motor with dual carbs and header will react to adding 1.4 rockers?

PPS- Have you read Aircooled.net's tech articles?
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On a lifelong mission to prove (much to my wife's dismay) that Immaturity is Forever!!

[FRNKNSTNGHIA]

I'm doing a ground up resto on my 70 Ghia Coupe. The whole chassis has been rebuilt completely. Added sways and KYB's as well as urethane bushings in certain areas. Brake systems were either replaced completely or refurbished to as-new condition. Should handle and stop far better than when she was running 2-3 years ago... Just want to add some extra oomph.. Thanks for the info, it will go a long way in deciding how to spend the 2k, and I await all the others to chime in as well....

Thanks

[MURZI]

Decent DP HEADS 500
90.5 pistons. 175
W110 cam, lifters. 140
Cam gear. 30
Bearings gaskets etc 100
Dual 40 idfs. 550
Machine work. 140
Counter weighted crank 200
8 dowel flywheel. 100
Simple little combo that will make 90-100 hp.
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62 vert
2276
Tim’s welded heads
45 Dells
A1 sidewinder
Fk44 cam

[Quokka42]

Gotta agree DP heads, decent carbs and exhaust are the wisest way to spend your money. With the balance you can get a new distributor and throw a bit of a party to celebrate when it is done.
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There has only ever been one man who was perfect, and they nailed Him to a cross.

[RailBoy]

MURZI, Which Carbs are you thinking and exhaust diameter? Just wondering, looks like a nice combo, take it you are talking CW 69 Crank as well?

What I am hoping is you are speaking of a "topped out" 69mm for you are getting that HP while using Stock Heater Boxes, which would be bitchen,lol.. RB
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[quote="smitty24"]"HELP, I ported my own heads and now have fire coming out my ass" .[/quote]

[FRNKNSTNGHIA]

[buickman_86]

I may be if my rocker but from my reading it cost the same to have the machine work done for 90.5 or 94 so why not just go to a 94 and get the most gain for the buck the first time and have a 1915? With 40 idfs it would still have plenty if carb.

Personally if you have to get a wc crank I would also look at the stroker I have been told there is almost a plug and play and they are similar in price

Just my opinion everyone has one

[Cusser]

[RailBoy]

From what I have observed and read on here, plus presenting my own questions on engines, Heat is a big factor in all this...

Hell, seen motors that can run hard core all day just to over heat at a stop light or sign.... Even 1600 with basic stuff.....

So, 94's are bigger diameter than my and lots of people all time favorite do to reputation, plus maybe an actual physics leson at the same time is why this theory is so well respected to "having" a good all around motor....

94's are bigger than 90.5's, thus, since fin outer diameter has to remain constant if for using "Stock" case arrangements/designs, there is less fin surface area with 94's than 90.5's do to just that, increased diameter...

So, entail to this, 94's to some, or maybe driving condctions directly impact this, but tend not to last as long as in performance quaility... But luckly now, they have "thick" wall 94's, but does that make them the best? Kinda like most money in a car always win's, not..........

So, on one aspect you can get more HP with the 94's, but at what conseqence? Yea, been in and out of this since 1985-6..... 2110's have gone through so much developement ver these years, and proven ways to build them for inherent task, you can't over look reputation if financials are involved, thus peep's indepth views into topics like this......

Yea, have a 2110 in a Street Rail that is a "mosh" of components, but kicks but do to a light car, so, looking to do a "proper" 2110 for my Super, so, yea, want a motor that will idle all day in 95 degree temps, plus "run" properly through out a linear RPM band up to just like 5,500 RPMs do to it s daily/streetable motor, but also, have HP and not heat up when using it......

Oh, on this heat thing, don't forget to take into account that the Shroud Fan lets call it has a "Max" RPM for lets say the "run out" area of air movement do to fan design, yep, the fan can actually stop being efficent and be detremental at certain RPMs, nice eh,lol.........

So, yep, then there is case heat, aluminium vs. aluminium/magniesium, then the list goes on.........

But yea, 94's, thick walls, have not been out to were people have seen through stats that 94 motors last as long as a 2110 built with the same stuff other than piston size, why, time, 2110 dailies have been out way longer is all, and wonder why........... Oh, on that note, the cultivation of technology had to occur to get to the "thick wall" 94's, like "thick wall" 88's.... Items/products still yet to be "solidily" proven... 1800/1879's are cool motors too, just have yet to get to own/try one, so, in theory, I think there cool.. Maybe we will see a "report" on some one day that solidifies this, peeps say there good, so, in being optimistic, I like to see more date, be intersting in what ever is un-vailed.... RB
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[quote="smitty24"]"HELP, I ported my own heads and now have fire coming out my ass" .[/quote]

[AlteWagen]

FYI there is no such thing as a thick wall 94.

Thick wall 88s and 92s exist but not 94s.

Also wondering what a 1879 is. Did you mean 1679?

If you think about it a thick wall 92 has the same fin surface area as the 94 but with a thicker cylinder wall that will resist warpage due overheating.

[RailBoy]

Ummmmm, Guess you had to be there then... Sorry dude, guess you right, Don't forget all the other reasons that just ad to this above info why thngs heat up, throw of stroke thus stiction, CR, Fan Size, ect., ect., ect..., and man, seen a lot of Shit out there over the years is all I know sorry not to eliviate all the shit that went away and some have never seen..... RB
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[quote="smitty24"]"HELP, I ported my own heads and now have fire coming out my ass" .[/quote]

[AlteWagen]

[RailBoy]

94's were out years ago for drag racing, totally different application than only running for 20 seconds... When did you notice 94's were around and on a street vs. strip?

Sorry to sound curt, just that stuff is around and meets different applications is all.....

I was out of the "VW" scene I do believe when "Daily" 94's came out vs. 'Strip" 94's.......... RB
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[quote="smitty24"]"HELP, I ported my own heads and now have fire coming out my ass" .[/quote]

[AlteWagen]

I was running Cima/Mahle 94s back in 1988. My neighbor was running them around 1985. Back then they were considered "race use" but were basically the same as the ones used today.

Im sure that with a $2K budget no one was recommending the use of Autocraft 94s to the OP.

For the record Ive seen thin wall 87s and 92s last over 50K miles and at the same time 90.5 only last 4K miles before melting down. It is correct that the state of tune of an engine AND the competence of the driver will determine the life of the parts. Do I recommend the use of thin wall cylinders, NO. The use of 94s in anything other than a bus or type III will be fine and will last even longer with proper deck height and a CHT gauge.

On a side note, RB your posts are getting difficult to understand and are more Mark Tucker style but without any useful info to decipher.

[camaroboi13]

For 2 grand I'd spend 500 bucks on a do it yourself turbo kit, have fun with it and the remaining 1500 can buy you another stock 1600 to play with once you've broken that one in a few years.
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69 bug 1600sp buckpack ceramic header w mondo muffler, riviera wheels, 185/65 front 205/70 rear, dual baby webers, big stereo in the works.
2001 Yukon Denali 6.0l AWD 24s TVs surround sound playstation 6 disc dvd etc etc.
2005 Nissan Maxima 3.5l stock mama's car

FFL GUN DEALER! PM ME FOR SOCAL TRANSFERS!

[tattooed_pariah]

start here:

http://www.aircooled.net/vw-technical-articles/

specifically, this article:

http://www.aircooled.net/vw-performance-easy-mods-bolt-on/
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-pariah (just a novice from "that other VW site")
'72 Volksrod "Effigy"

"Never worry about stepping on people's toes. People who get their toes stepped on are either sitting down, or standing still on the job."
-Admiral Arleigh Burke, USN(ret.)

[camaroboi13]

[woodsbuggy]

Please do not settle for a 110 cam. There are so many much better options out there. The key is to find the correct combination of parts to achieve your goal. Take your time, do some reading and find the combo that meets your needs.
Good Luck
Kenric
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