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solrankos
Samba Member
Joined: September 29, 2011
Posts: 10
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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 Posted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 5:01 am Post subject: Stuck bolts (Coolant pipe to water pump) |
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I got a 88 wbx bus. I got holes in the big coolant pipe that is attached to the water pump. Got myself a new pipe but got stuck trying to remove the broken one.
The two bolts that attaches it to the pump are not moving at all. I tried lubricating oil, hammering on my tool the same time as i'm cranking it. Also made an extended tool for more leverage. But nothing happens. I heard that the next step is to apply heat to the engine block (in this case the water pump) and then the bolt might loosen. but i'm afraid to break the pump doing this.
Anyone had the same experience?
(really sorry for my bad english, please ask me if you are not understanding  ) |
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djkeev
Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007
Posts: 32632
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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| Posted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 5:14 am Post subject: |
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Actually you communicated quite well!
Far better than some Americans who have English as their native tongue!
You are facing galvanic corrosion. Two dissimilar metals in contact with each other reacting chemically. Then you introduce liquids to the reaction and you often get a white crusty mess that eats away at both items plus glues them together like you used Super Glue!
To break them apart can take some time and you are on the right track.
Penetrating oils work well to chemically dissolve the bond.
Impact works well to shock and crumble the bond.
Heat works well to create expansion of the molecules and break the bond.
I would concentrate more on the impact method for a few minutes. many frequent and light taps on the fastener. Nothing hard, just a hundred or two gentle taps like you are a wood pecker looking for bugs in a tree.
Now try it. No movement?
Get out the torch and heat the bolt head, not so hot as to compromise the aluminum of the water pump but very hot.
Let it cool.
Give it a couple more shock treatments with the hammer....
It should screw right off.
You can always add more chemical as you do these steps.
Some also suggest when the fastener is hot, to apply candle wax to the joint between the fastener and the object. It will melt and be sucked down into the threads.
Just don't break it off! It's a real pain to repair if you do.
Good Luck!
Dave
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Phishman068
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1868
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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insyncro
Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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| Posted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 7:50 am Post subject: |
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http://www.eckcorrosion.com/
Introduced to this by Derek Drew and I use it on many fasteners that are seeing issues.
Yup, mail order only and more than most will want to spend around here, but works as described...WELL!
FYI, the cap head fasteners of the cross over pipe are used for a reason...ease of R&R with an extended ball end socket.
The torque is light duty, don't go crazy. |
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solrankos
Samba Member
Joined: September 29, 2011
Posts: 10
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
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| Posted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 4:10 am Post subject: |
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Thxs for all the replies! I will probably heat the bolt up, hit it like a woodpecker as i crank the shit out of it. And if the bolt breaks, buy a new water pump as well.
As for the Eck-lubricant i can't find it in swedish stores. So i will use the classic CRC 5,56. |
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djkeev
Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007
Posts: 32632
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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insyncro
Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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| Posted: Tue Oct 29, 2013 6:47 am Post subject: |
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| djkeev wrote: |
Well I'm about to embark upon my WBX reassembly. Considering the level of galvanic corrosion I found upon disassembly and the grief it has caused me getting out broken studs, if this ECK works, it is well worth the $14 investment to head off future aggravation in the coming years / decades!
Dave |
No complaints here after 4 years of service on hundreds of fasteners. |
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