Pop out windows on a 72 Squareback?

[TrueGrif]

Is it possible to put pop out windows on my 72 Squareback? I know earlier models had them but dont know how much work it would take to convert it. Thanks for your time!

[Bobnotch]

[TrueGrif]

Thanks man I'll give it a shot.

[Bobnotch]

[padgett]

Bringing this back from the dead as I'm working through putting pop outs on my 73 right now using the t1 hinge method.

I'm stuck in that the front of the pop out is way more off the body than the rears when i tighten down the latch. It really seems that the t1 hinge is the reason why. in that its pushing the front of the window out, just by being there.

Bob said something about notching the c pillar, i'm totally lost on that. But tomorrow i'm going to take another look at the t1 hinges and see if theres any way I can figure to get that front of the window to sit closer to the body. Dont have any fancy bits, just screwed the t1 hinge into the pop out frames and drilled into the c pillar and used the nut plate supplied with the t1 hinge to hold it in.

Or, I just go back to fixed

[Bobnotch]

[padgett]

1st of all Bob, thanks for taking the time to write that out and respond to a thread 5+ years old. Thanks for explaining that cut you were talking about, I just used rivnuts.

So this is where i'm at.

I've had the window in and out of this set up for a few days trying to get rid of the gaps. Same way you did it, type 1 hinge screwed to the frame

Thing is, when i lock down the latch to secure the window, it pulls the bottom left of the window out and causes this gap:

Its not much, but its bugging me and I dont want it there.

My thought is this: Is it possible that the rear latch is applying too much pressure and pushing the window out at the front. To mount the rear latch I did have the 3 holes everyone talks about, and i used the two stacked on top of eachother and put rivnuts in them. Then had to drill a 3rd hole as the rear most hole didn't line up with the latch. But this is where i'm at. Should i redo the rear latch mounting and assume that my issue stems from too much pressure on the window?

Thanks for the help again.

[Bobnotch]

OK, I see the gap you're talking about, and I really wouldn't worry about it at this time. This is because you don't have the pinch welt in place yet. The pinch welt is like that plastic strip around the inside of the door opening. With it in place, I believe the window will level out when you open it. What it does is finish the inside of the window opening, but also helps the glass and frame sit in the opening better (fills a good part of the gap around the window).

When you install the welting, start at the bottom of the hinge, and work it around the opening back to the top of the hinge. Make sure you get it all of the way into the corners, as that material WILL shrink over time and pull up and out.

When you install the hinge covers, you'll need to remove 2 of the screws that go into the tapping plate, and replace them with the cover and it's screws (you'll have 3 screws actually holding the tapping plate, and 2 screws holding the cover attaching to the tapping plate).

And no problem on replying to an old thread that just got brought back to the top again.
Since you used riv-nuts, you might have too much material underneath the latch base itself, causing it to pull a little harder. But, look at the outside of the window seal, and see if it's laying flat, or if it's trying to pull inward. In reality, you want the seal to sit flat and semi tight to the body, as that WILL keep water from entering thru the seal/window.

Please keep in mind the the original set up wasn't very tight, due to the way it was set up with the "C" shaped pieces. Most of them wore out the hard rubber on them that was used to both tighten the gap, and keep them from rattling. My biggest worry with them was the possibility of the front falling out, and having the entire window hanging by the latch. On my 65 Notch, I drilled and put a screw thru them, just so that wouldn't happen. I've since picked another set of bug hinges (from WW) and plan to install them this year when I replace the pop out seals.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[padgett]

Your the best, bob!

I was hoping someone on here would tell me the gap I'm messing with was acceptable and not to worry about it. I have the pinch welt and I'll try putting that in today and see how it sits afterward. Regardless, it's good to know I was making yet another mountain out of a molehill.

The vintage vw community is the best online community I've delt with....vintage motorcycle communities could learn a thing or two

[KTPhil]

Just for the record, for others who may have found this thread by searching for "late car popouts" or similar... it is possible to retrofit stock popouts, but you need the "hinge plates" that were formerly welded to the inside of the B-pillar. It requires either welding or clever threading of the part and then use of heavy duty rivets or other fasteners. There are other threads about this, and worth searching for if a more stock approach is desired.

Now back to our regular programming...

[padgett]

put in the windlace/pinch welt. didnt' make a difference, but i'm going to let it ride as is. At least i have piece of mind now.

Thanks all.