GUSHER! (oil pressure switch?)

[dhaavers]

My promise to you: "I wouldn't post this if I hadn't searched it!"

- ANYWAY -
As often happens, you'll be in the middle of one project when another
(seemingly) unrelated comes along, DEMANDING your attention.

So it is today.

While running the van in the driveway at high idle during my AC recharge, I noticed
and could no longer ignore a widening puddle of life-giving oil around my foot...

This puddle took about 30 seconds to get to this size. Ugh.

Turned off the van, stopped the AC project in it's tracks and began collecting
evidence. After blasting a few spots clean I deduced the following:

- Up behind the oil cooler, clean & dry -
All eyes on the half-hidden hex fitting just beyond the engine bearer bar...

...now idling a couple minutes later, it begins...

...a minute later...here she comes...

...another minute...looking good...

...and finally...GUSHER! (See the drip???!!!)

This all happens in about 4-5 minutes - the stream literally runs onto the ground.

SO: I can't quite see what I'm dealing with here, but after nosing around in
my [Bentley/Haynes/personal] archives I think I've settled on a bad 0.9 bar
OP switch. Right? Maybe?

If I'm right, how tricky is this gonna be? Will I need to be pulling pulleys and
dropping engines (never done either) or can I get to this just by moving belts
outta the way & a deep <24mm> socket?

I assume I <won't> be dropping a lot of oil in the process?

Still new to some of this stuff, so any great step-by-steps would of course, be appreciated...

- Dave
_________________
86 White Wolfsburg Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"
<EDITED TO PROTECT INNOCENT PIXELS>

[snuf]

If you remove or loosen the exhaust heat shield, you should be able to replace the 0.9 bar OP switch.
You might have to remove a couple of belts for better access, but I did mine with out taking them off. The switch is screwed in to a metal hex-body that will probably come out with the switch. Tight space to work with, but with patience you'll get it.
_________________
1986 Wolfsberg Limited Edition Vanagon.
AKA: Poptop with rear corner cabinet, fold down side table, rear-facing jump seat and a 12v fridge/cooler.

[AtlasShrugged]

If you go get a set of cheap plumbers sockets at the hardware store...

Remove the A/C belt..leave the sheet metal in place and use the best fitting one on the oil pressure switch to remove it. Try not and remove the threaded boss too..it may come out. You will not lose much oil..a teaspoon or two.

The plumbers socket is a cheap deep socket that will let you make the repair quickly.

It is fiddly..take your time and use a flashlight to see what your doing.

You can thread in the new part by hand (fingers) and snug it up with the socket.

Good luck.

[dhaavers]

Sounds do-able. So, you're saying this def. looks like the OP switch?
Haven't done my shopping yet...

Thanks!
_________________
86 White Wolfsburg Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"
<EDITED TO PROTECT INNOCENT PIXELS>

[snuf]

From what your photos show, it appears to be coming from the switch.
Look down from the top in that area and if you see oil pooling below the switch then it is most likely the switch leaking. Oil Pressure Switches are not expensive,($5.00).
_________________
1986 Wolfsberg Limited Edition Vanagon.
AKA: Poptop with rear corner cabinet, fold down side table, rear-facing jump seat and a 12v fridge/cooler.

[AtlasShrugged]

Go to NAPA and get the Altrom brand oil pressure switch, Part Number: ATM 068919081A.

It is made in Germany..they don't fail after a year or two like the Chinese switches that are out there. Cost for the Altrom switch is about $8.50...it is worth it.

[dhaavers]

Thanks for the help, all - very specific & VERY helpful.

I'm on this today!
_________________
86 White Wolfsburg Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"
<EDITED TO PROTECT INNOCENT PIXELS>

[dhaavers]

Finally got 'r done today after having misidentified the socket size...(now corrected in my OP above)
For the record: it's 24mm for the switch itself.
Cost: lost time & a few extra trips to town.

Got it out, put it in, snugged up, cleaned up & not another drop to be seen.
I did have to move 2 belts but no problem working up close to the heat shield.
Fiddly - yes; but not as bad as dropping the AC cabinet for the evaporator!

Also cleaned off the breather tower which was originally my prime suspect for THIS leak.
Gotta keep an eye on these things...

Thanks again guys - Happy Trails!
_________________
86 White Wolfsburg Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"
<EDITED TO PROTECT INNOCENT PIXELS>

[dhaavers]

[insyncro]

In all of my years with Vanagons, two of the nicest I still own were purchased for pennies on the dollar because one of those switches let loose and the owners mechanic told them they needed a new engine

I relocate both switches similarly to the kits Vanistan and RJE sell.
The switch you had trouble with, I replace with an oil temp sensor and it does not have a plastic core like the pressure switches.

[Hatterasker]

[pdm777]

Porsches have the same oil switch, and it is well known
that they eventually leak between the plastic connector and the
metal crimp.

JBWeld or similar epoxy does a good job of sealing the gap
and thus prevent premature engine removal to clean up the mess
and replace the leaking oil pressure switch.

The OPS adaptor is torqued a lot more than the oil pressure switch and the oil pressure switch will not come off with the adaptor unless incorrectly installed. I use a 14” long extension (1/4” drive) plus additional short extension with 24-mm deep socket. Do not forget to unhooked the wire before attempting to loosen the switch. It does not take too much effort to loosen the switch.
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1990 Westy Full Camper