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What to look for when buying a type 3 square?
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AMFE
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 11:48 am    Post subject: What to look for when buying a type 3 square? Reply with quote

I am sure this has been asked many times but i couldnt really find what I was looking for in my search.

I am starting the search for a good 69 or earlier type 3 squareback. Would like to hear some recomeded places to look for rust problems or other problems that are often hiding.

I understand to look at the pans and heater channels.

Thanks for the help
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one4house
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=78049

Look at the stickies above the normal threads. This is inside the "Type 3 faq"
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ALLWAGONS
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Things to look for:

1. Year/model
'62-'63 1st generation rare but plain
'64-'65 Best looking, fat trim, wrap around dash
'66 1st year disc brakes
'67 1st year 12v ugly black knobs
'68-'69 1st year gas opening on fender reinforced bumper

2. Completeness of car

3. Rust

4. check the rear hinges, they are prone to bending and missalignment

5. uncracked dash
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

See what they have or have not done with the induction system. Original carbs or EFI are best. Avoid the dreaded single Weber progressive that ruins your rear storage space.

Late models have their advantages, too... EFI, automatics, IRS, powered fresh air, bigger brakes, a little more trunk room. Some like the earlier styling and do without these improvements. Choose according to your tastes. '69 is a great transition year, with 12V, EFI, but early styling.


Last edited by KTPhil on Sun Jan 05, 2014 8:48 pm; edited 1 time in total
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ataraxia
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have a look under the dash-if the wiring is hacked up with lots of butt connectors or loose wires, you'll be in for some gremlin hunting in the future.

Another thing to note: If the car you find is a 67 or earlier, make sure the ignition works (ie: you can put the key in and it starts the car). The early ignitions are often bypassed because they stop working and can be expensive to fix.
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AMFE
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dont know how I missed that one house.....Thanks

I like the older body style and a 69 to me would be desireable due to the IRS transaxle. But what do I know...

I am rehabing my moms old Beetle right now and as good as it looked before I took the body off i have come to realize a bit how VW's rust (from the inside out) from what i have found is if it looks a little rusty on the outside it is rust x 4 on the inside.

Most everything I see here in the Deep South in terms squareback are "hoodRides" I am guessing that is ok since they are not hiding the rust and you have a better idea of what to expect?

Didnt know about the ignition problem phil thanks.......

ataraxia The wiring is a concern also after rehabing this Beetle... There are abundant new parts for beetles but have noticed the TYpe 3's have lesser new parts to choose from.
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one4house
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take your idea of a bug rusting from the inside out and multiply it by 4 for type 3. They are far worse about that. Be sure and look it over good before you buy it.
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Last edited by one4house on Mon Jan 06, 2014 9:06 am; edited 1 time in total
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grifspop
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't just look at the pans for rust- pull up some of the sound deadening insulation after lifting the rear seat- the insulation gets wet, holds water, and begins to rust there too. Type 3 parts can be expensive when compared to Type 1 parts- it's better to buy a more complete and running car versus a basket case for that reason
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grifspop
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also forgot to mention bumpers-

When I got my '67, the rear was hammered and the front was rusted

I sourced one from Nebraska, and one from Washington State- about $200. each for used parts-
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 8:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

one4house wrote:
Take your idea of a bug riding from the inside out abd multiply it by 4 for type 3. They are far worse about that. Be sure and look it over good before you buy it.


That's a good starting point. That's why we tell people looking for a type 3 to buy the most complete, unmolested, original car they can afford. Some of the little bits and pieces can cost almost what you can buy a complete car for. Shocked This is especially true for the very early cars (61 thru 65), as they have some "early car only" parts on them, that are very difficult to source. These are also know as 1500 models, and are usually 6 volt.
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