Author |
Message |
dubbified Samba Member
Joined: March 03, 2010 Posts: 1406 Location: Redmond, WA
|
Posted: Tue Dec 31, 2013 7:49 am Post subject: Propex Hs2211 install |
|
|
Hello,
I have a 1990 Vanagon Westfalia Weekender.. I am prepping it for a cross country trip I’m to take come spring.
A little over a year ago, I bought the Hs2000, installed it under the custom rear bench.. And I can't say I was super happy with the fuel source, flame source, ignition source being INSIDE my sleeping cabin underneath my bed.
The decision to have a heater, is ideal for me.. It was nice to have this heat source in the camper when sleeping. I'd paired the Hs2000 up with my primary battery, a rather large Optima blue top as my primary battery. I noticed three days of consistent use.. I could barely start the van. Not bad considering I'd also had several hours of demanding stereo use.. two nights.. Mo Battery needed.
Sadly, The Hs2211 hit the market after I already ordered and installed the hs2000..
Earlier this fall, I began removing my initial wooden floor/bed pedestal build.. had sold the Hs2000 to a local guy who is going to put in his camper, opening the decision to buy this model.
Well.. Santa finally delivered the goods, with Cookies! Thanks Van-cafe!
Now the flooring is being rebuilt using fresh wood straight black urethane finish vs the previous version I’d afforded with Walnut grit into the finish.. not ideal.
So, being as the new wood is not yet screwed in.. the finish is dry.. I'm ready to install. This delivery is SPOT on great timing.
Fitment.. factors for me to think about.. Where to put this heater.. where to push the heat? What kinda battery.. Where to mount the heater control for ideal use when sleeping.
I already have rigged a 9 gallon Busdepot extended stay LP tank hung under the Passenger slider door side..
Looking to install a dual battery tray for the driver side underbody..boasting a starting battery, and a sizeable secondary.. which needs to be hung before the heater install. I don’t care about buying the battery, just sizing and fabricating the tray, mounting the tray, relocating my primary starting battery from where it was under the rear seat. Both batteries will eventually tie into the 5 ft solar panel atop my expedition addon storage unit for when I am under way.
Interior design considerations inside the van, I'm building a rear bench/bed platform, and Kitchenette, porta potty box.. so I have to also figure out where the Air ducting will be delivering the air.
In the previous installation instance, I found that a Single port inlet of heat into the van, where the propex was mounted under the rear bench, simply didn't push the air to the rear of the van, where you sleep, feet would get cold, back windows would get all wet.. yea the cabin was warm.. but I had to use a second fan to push the air around.
Moving into that dept.. I’ve already cut into the rear steels, opening up the ¼ panels offering increased in wall storage.. I’d pulled out my old doorcards.. as I’d decided to further modify.. and cut the bed down from a full 80x60 Queen, to a 78x55 bed.. allowing the door cards to be opened up and used for storage.. and also other things.. like actual windows sills for my pulldown blinds to rest on, drapes to slide over for stealth camp mode, power distribution/usb, cupholder, or an all new improved, Air distribution system to update the livability of the rear cabin.. sadly needed. More of a RV build, less rushed on the design.. haha.
I'm debating on whether I should utilize the primary upper air distribution system.. the one where you see the vents next to the ceiling? The thought would be to reverse feed the entire body based HVAC system.. HAS ANYONE DONE THAT??? What was your outcome, did it work?
This install has a couple other updates, such as use of 12volt computer fans inside the walls.. to move more air.. with, or without the heater being on.
Its been a while since I had a fun project.
Pictures coming. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
luVWagn Samba Member
Joined: February 21, 2008 Posts: 1340 Location: Snoqualmie (WA)
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
dubbified Samba Member
Joined: March 03, 2010 Posts: 1406 Location: Redmond, WA
|
Posted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 2:16 pm Post subject: |
|
|
WHOA!
I am thinking about placing this infront actually.. way upfront.. almost thinking of force feeding the HVAC system that is built into the van.
I'm looking at this as a viable alternative to cutting into the body.. and using stock air ways into the rear upper eves, those vents that run the length of the van..
how to backfeed the best way??
I'd rebuilt the HVAC box... and see where the crossmember is fed by the blower and this could be viable.
thoughts? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
insyncro Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002 Posts: 15086 Location: New York
|
Posted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 2:28 pm Post subject: |
|
|
If you look at the sides of the distribution box, it has access points that could be used.
I plan to do the same with a winter Syncro build I am planning.
Just below the walk through is where I would like to mount the furnace. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
luVWagn Samba Member
Joined: February 21, 2008 Posts: 1340 Location: Snoqualmie (WA)
|
Posted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 2:39 pm Post subject: |
|
|
What, you don't like the firewall hack-up?
dubbified wrote: |
I am thinking about placing this infront actually.. way upfront.. almost thinking of force feeding the HVAC system that is built into the van.
I'm looking at this as a viable alternative to cutting into the body.. and using stock air ways into the rear upper eves, those vents that run the length of the van..
...
I'd rebuilt the HVAC box... and see where the crossmember is fed by the blower and this could be viable.
thoughts? |
Yeah, i like that idea too, and just have the heat migrate through the existing B pillar (via passenger door vents?) and along the rear roof-line vent plumbing on a Westy - not sure what your interior heating situation looks like. Then you could potentially stick this down in the clamshell as well?
There's also all that space above the transmission
Looking forward to your particular fitment, although sometimes it pays to be simple - you've got lots of box space that is accessible, no? _________________ '91 Syncro 16 Reimo Hightop Conversion, eTDI |
|
Back to top |
|
|
dubbified Samba Member
Joined: March 03, 2010 Posts: 1406 Location: Redmond, WA
|
Posted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 2:48 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Hey, not so bad? Hows it work!??
As I'm plotting my weekend as I've got a three day weekend Fri/Sun.. this is a major step to get done.. sorta foundational for the rest of my interior.. so its going to get some thread updates..
I had been giving thoughts to where to mount the battery.. I think mounting the battery tray farther back is ideal for weight distribution in the van when loaded, so this leaves the potential install for the propex mounting under the body, behind the B pillar and cross member just behind the front left tire..
Is it Friday yet? I am pumped up.. I gotta knock this out and go camping. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
dubbified Samba Member
Joined: March 03, 2010 Posts: 1406 Location: Redmond, WA
|
Posted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 3:34 pm Post subject: |
|
|
So, a progress update.
I found a home for the propex.. its on driver wall, to the rear of the footwell cavity, underneath the van.
I weighed out where the heated air should come in.. and placed it at the foot of the bed, vertical ducting will be installed directing heated air along the floor, and then again out closer to the window.. ducting you can aim/direct.
I found the farthest point forward and drilled another hole for the return/cold air intake. This will be built into the false wall, stem wall cabinet built into the van, pulling air from behind the driver seat.
I will be creating a false wall cabinet where my electronics and water filter is going.. and I just insulated it all last night.. woot!
I have pictures to post!
I am going to test driven the propex in its present configuration to assure no flow issues, like the bend in intake/exhaust ports bending so close..
Just gotta be sure it fires up! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Syncro Jael Samba Member
Joined: December 19, 2013 Posts: 2204 Location: Utah
|
Posted: Wed Jan 22, 2014 6:12 pm Post subject: |
|
|
You will love the 2211
We just had a long weekend campout in Colorado with my son and his Syncro Westy. There were -5º F nights and our Westy stayed as warm as we wanted. I had the thermostat set at about 75º and the Propex was still cycling on and off.
Very nice winter camping!
Enjoy yours.
I will be interested in your mount, mine is under where the fridge used to be. _________________ 1987 Syncro Westfalia Hightop - NAHT
Subaru EJ25 Forged Frankenmotor, Triple Knob.
Jael = (Mountain Goat) |
|
Back to top |
|
|
dubbified Samba Member
Joined: March 03, 2010 Posts: 1406 Location: Redmond, WA
|
Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 10:48 am Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks!
Yea, I already had the hs2000, and thought it to be a little weak.
I have heard good things about this thing!
I hope to get the copper tubing for the temporary connection to the heater, then buy a fabricated line from the propane store. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
buildyourown Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2009 Posts: 1668 Location: Seattle
|
Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 12:32 pm Post subject: |
|
|
If you don't have the stock fridge, then that location works really well. The inlet/outlet end up being just in front of the bed so the heat goes up, and then gets caught by the upper bunk and pushed back. The rear of the van stays warm. Exhaust ports run thru the floor. Propane connection is already there from the fridge. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
dubbified Samba Member
Joined: March 03, 2010 Posts: 1406 Location: Redmond, WA
|
Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 6:30 am Post subject: |
|
|
Ok OK!!
Its friggin IN.
In.. hoses routed up through the floor, silicone nearly dry.. return coming up really far forward behind the dr seat.. and then the primary heat inlet about midway up under the window opposite the slider door.. at the foot of where the bed will be.. My black urethaned 3/8 Plywood floor inplace.. as a test fit.. and awaiting the insulation blanket.. (under the ply) and to be screwed down..
As for the operational output of the propex.. I can't say its HOT.. I used to be able to put my hand infront of the propex.. and it would nearly burn me.
Any reason for the heat output to change?
As the install location is under the driver footwell, about 6 inches from the primary crossbeam that supports the rear axle.. I had to hand peen the metal on the outer fender wall (inner support runner) so the inlet and exhaust tubes would clear without too much of a bend.. but it works.. it is firing right up.. let it run for two hours.. heated the van right up!
YAAAAAY!
Pictures are taken.. I just had my 40th so was a bit busy on the weekend.. so I will get to that. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
westyventures Samba Member
Joined: December 29, 2004 Posts: 2306 Location: Oregon Outback
|
Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 5:27 pm Post subject: |
|
|
dubbified wrote: |
Ok OK!!
Its friggin IN.
In.. hoses routed up through the floor, silicone nearly dry.. return coming up really far forward behind the dr seat.. and then the primary heat inlet about midway up under the window opposite the slider door.. at the foot of where the bed will be.. My black urethaned 3/8 Plywood floor inplace.. as a test fit.. and awaiting the insulation blanket.. (under the ply) and to be screwed down..
As for the operational output of the propex.. I can't say its HOT.. I used to be able to put my hand infront of the propex.. and it would nearly burn me.
Any reason for the heat output to change?
As the install location is under the driver footwell, about 6 inches from the primary crossbeam that supports the rear axle.. I had to hand peen the metal on the outer fender wall (inner support runner) so the inlet and exhaust tubes would clear without too much of a bend.. but it works.. it is firing right up.. let it run for two hours.. heated the van right up!
YAAAAAY!
Pictures are taken.. I just had my 40th so was a bit busy on the weekend.. so I will get to that. |
The HS2211 is the same output as the HS2000, 6500 btu. The closer you are to the heater, the hotter the output air will feel. Sounds as though you have a lot of ducting length, so it will feel less hot. I'm a little confused by the location as your words contradict one another - driver's footwell can't be 6" from the rear axle cross member. Heated air temp will go up as the recirculated air temperature rises. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
dubbified Samba Member
Joined: March 03, 2010 Posts: 1406 Location: Redmond, WA
|
Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 9:15 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks for the info, here is my install.
So, There is no adjustability to the heat range for the propex?
Man.. that would be cool and a great feature.. HI/Low Fan and Low heat and HiHeat option.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
westyventures Samba Member
Joined: December 29, 2004 Posts: 2306 Location: Oregon Outback
|
Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2014 9:29 pm Post subject: |
|
|
dubbified wrote: |
Thanks for the info, here is my install.
So, There is no adjustability to the heat range for the propex?
Man.. that would be cool and a great feature.. HI/Low Fan and Low heat and HiHeat option.
|
No, there is one gas jet, one heat level. For Propex to have multistage heating would require much more sophistication, additional gas jets,etc. Not that I haven't mentioned the desirability of this to them...
On your installation: For best efficiency, you would be wise to insulate the ducting under the van and even add shielding around it. Although the heater itself was designed for external use, the ducting was intended to enter the vehicle in as short as possible distance. I have Propex-supplied insulation available, fiberglass with a silver covering. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
dubbified Samba Member
Joined: March 03, 2010 Posts: 1406 Location: Redmond, WA
|
Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 5:50 am Post subject: |
|
|
Hey Karl!
Thanks for the tip!
I will definitely get that wrapped.
Al |
|
Back to top |
|
|
boulderdrop Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2008 Posts: 481 Location: Seattle, WA
|
Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 11:20 am Post subject: |
|
|
That's a great install. Nice work and ingenuity. _________________ == My Rides ==
1984 Westy, Bostig, 3rd:1.14, Locker-LSD, Newly Painted
1980 24' J-Boat
1979 Sears Freespirit Moped
1996 Chev S10 4x4 ZR2
2012 Toyota Camry Hybrid (Wife's)
== How I Pay the Bills ==
Windows FTP Server at http://www.bpftpserver.com (PM for a FREE one) |
|
Back to top |
|
|
dubbified Samba Member
Joined: March 03, 2010 Posts: 1406 Location: Redmond, WA
|
Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 11:46 am Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks! Its hard to figure some of these things out! I must have sat looking at that wall for hours, getting under the van and just rackin my brain over some of the details..
I cant say enough about Propex's decision to make an underbody model.. Thanks to Van-Café for the Very very very fast delivery. Smokin deal too with cookies! I like the new pacific cookie company vs the famous amos..
Part of the project also looks to the electrical connections..
I had a change of heart with the battery standby.. Not using a battery tray..
I think they need to be inside, one on each side under the rear bench.. I'm going to have two 100lb batteries.. one starting, one AUX charged by the solar system.. A Kyocera and a blue sky controller.. and a Sure bidirectional charge controller. I think that should keep it simple, and allow the system to self manage while driving or while boondocking.
So, I'm gunna have an interior build thread.. maybe when its closer to being done.. but Its gunna be done in less than 1 month.. actually 20 days.
Mainly I've gotta move out of my garage rental.. and also there is no more $$ hangup.. Tax refund just hit.. Cant wait to install the 6 types of LED and show you guys what I think.. needs to go in that sucker. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Syncro Jael Samba Member
Joined: December 19, 2013 Posts: 2204 Location: Utah
|
Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 8:28 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Great way to mount the Propex. They didn't have that model available when I bought mine. Good job!!
Here is mine where the fridge used to be. It now has a shelf on it and the heat comes out the vents on the floor. Nice place to put your wet boots in the winter and wake up dry and warm.
Here is my aux LP tank on the passenger side. Along with the extenda stay hook up.
_________________ 1987 Syncro Westfalia Hightop - NAHT
Subaru EJ25 Forged Frankenmotor, Triple Knob.
Jael = (Mountain Goat) |
|
Back to top |
|
|
dubbified Samba Member
Joined: March 03, 2010 Posts: 1406 Location: Redmond, WA
|
Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 10:49 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Hey!
That's awesome! I like the vent/register down low.. Crafty! Retains a OE look.. Its such a low profile that it'd be tough to distinguish when the door is closed.. I like that grate! dang.
I was on the fence whether I needed a oe or larger.. Busdepot had the 9 gallon and I am going to use it for bbq, propex.. I can't wait to see how many days I get out of it.. haha.
I would fall over if I found this thing to have adjustability infinite control on the fan.. and the heat.. and this is the full monte idea floatin around in my head.. If there was a way to make it into a cooling unit.. using propane.. dang, the apparatus is already in the box nearly.
The OE.. Kitchen/Propane refridgerators work off propane to cool the air it really does not seem so far fetched. The efficiency of such a thing is my question.. if it would be feasible to cool the air with propane "AC" as you would cool a reefer. The stock fridge was 12v, propane, 110.. right?\
Perhaps its the sleep deprivation and too much caffeine.. but I cant wait to camp under the snowline..
I may just go this weekend.. toss an airmattress on a 10 min build 2x2 base and a 4x8 sheet of plywood.. which I gotta buy anyhow. Heck... Now its insulated.. heated.. the figgin canvas is FINALLY installed.. and it runs great.. I say its ready .. haha. So what if the interior is unfinished.. bah.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
|