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Short clutch cable ?
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azbob
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2014 11:34 pm    Post subject: Short clutch cable ? Reply with quote

I searched already and only found a thread from 04 that is close to this topic. I'm tired so I may have missed a solution some where here.

I went to install a new clutch cable in my 67 and the cable came up short by 1/2 inch. I can barely get the wing nut to touch but not get close to the threads. Figured it could be the bowden tube so I swapped that out with the same result. Still short. Just barely.

Part number(JEL Automotive):
355324REP
original part number marked as reference:
211721335B
Length is 123" (3124mm)

Looking up the reference part number it is the correct number. I also had another that I tried which was 125" (3175mm) but that one was so long that the threads would end before engaging the arm.

I did swap the tranny to a later year swing axle (long axle - 6Cool. I don't think this could be the issue but I could be wrong.

Any ideas here? I'm stuck thinking that the cable fairy is on the sauce. None of these numbers match cable lengths that I've looked up online. I don't want to fight with the clutch arm since that sucker has a new spring and I'd like to adjust the cable correctly. Can't do that if there's no play! Any help would be much appreciated!
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BarryL Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Part 46 shows that cable at 3116mm if you want to have an even shorter cable. Something is whack. http://oacdp.org/5867part/369.png Is yours right hand drive? Even if not you might try to get the "A". "67 shouldn't be unique or one-year-only. Can you re-buy another cable and see? Did you measure the one you have to see if it's the stated length? How many cuts do you have on your hands and arms from this?
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olliehank47
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the exact same problem with my 67 as well. I had a rebuilt trans from a 68 bug installed, using the original cable that was on my bus and everything was fine. One day, I noticed the cable beginning to fray so I ordered a new one, correct for 67 and wound up in your situation. I was able to install the wing nut, but just barely, and the clutch arm was under a little tension. I drove it to my mechanic, the one who installed the trans, and he couldn't understand why it didn't fit but said the cable would stretch and eventually, it did.

As an aside, it may have been possible that the clutch arm was longer on my new trans than the old one. I don't mean curved vs straight, but actual length. I know there are different lengths of straight clutch arms out there, but don't know how many and on what years and types of trannys they fit. In your case, you did not change out the arm, so that wouldn't apply.
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azbob
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BarryL wrote:
Part 46 shows that cable at 3116mm if you want to have an even shorter cable. Something is whack. http://oacdp.org/5867part/369.png Is yours right hand drive? Even if not you might try to get the "A". "67 shouldn't be unique or one-year-only. Can you re-buy another cable and see? Did you measure the one you have to see if it's the stated length? How many cuts do you have on your hands and arms from this?


That's what I'm saying. The length "should" be right - I am measuring the ends and not just the cable legnth. Could the clutch arm be out of wack some how?

Luckily, it's an early 67(late 66 parts - mostly) so the parts should be more common. I'm going to attempt to find another clutch cable today.

One thing I can think of is to add washers to the bowden tube with the other cable but once it settles and stretches a bit I'll be screwed.I'm thinking it may work but not entirely sold on that.

Not to many cuts but tons of bruises. Wink

A person is supposed to be able to swap this thing out on the side of the road in case of emergencies FFS.
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azbob
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

olliehank47 wrote:
I had the exact same problem with my 67 as well. I had a rebuilt trans from a 68 bug installed, using the original cable that was on my bus and everything was fine. One day, I noticed the cable beginning to fray so I ordered a new one, correct for 67 and wound up in your situation. I was able to install the wing nut, but just barely, and the clutch arm was under a little tension. I drove it to my mechanic, the one who installed the trans, and he couldn't understand why it didn't fit but said the cable would stretch and eventually, it did.

As an aside, it may have been possible that the clutch arm was longer on my new trans than the old one. I don't mean curved vs straight, but actual length. I know there are different lengths of straight clutch arms out there, but don't know how many and on what years and types of trannys they fit. In your case, you did not change out the arm, so that wouldn't apply.



No no, I didn't change the arm BUT it is a new tranny off a 68 WITH a new arm on it!

So you're saying that you had to put some tension on the arm to get the nut to thread?
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durfeec
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pull the clutch arm back and put a couple threads on it. Then adjust it when you get the motor in. I bet you'll be surprised how far the clutch arm actually gets pulled back when you adjust it properly.
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azbob
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Engine is in. The arm is going to be a pain to pull back. That spring is super tight!
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the same issue... hoping the cable stretches! As for what i found to be the easiest way to pull back the arm by myself... I use a ratchet strap from the arm to the torsion tube and tighten it to give me slack. Spin the wingnut on with ease and loosen the strap. No effort or painful contorting! ( used a rope the same way on the side of the street)
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 10:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep! A ratchet strap is exactly what I was thinking. I was just hoping that wasn't the proper option.

Maybe some one needs to make these things a half inch longer. Wink
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the same problem with my '67. I ended up pulling the pedal pivot pin out, started the threads at the other end, hooked the cable back on the pedal and used a little pry bar to align the pedal pin. Worked a charm, plus it gave me a chance to lube the pedal assembly.

Gordo.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

@flemcadiddlehopper I went over that option last night and I have no idea how you did it but I can barely get one hand in there let along 3 (prybar + clip + pin). Ha! I actually lubed and cleaned everything up front Monday.

I'm going to go tackle this now. A ratchet strap is staying in the bus next to my replacement clutch and accelerator cables from now on.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simplest fix is to shorten the Bowden tube a cm or so, if you are positive it is fully seated in its ferrule.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

are you sure the bowden tube is seated, you have the right bowden tube? is the bowden tube bracket cast into the housing or is it the old style bolt on type?
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sometimes you can turn the front clevis lever around and eek out 1/2 inch.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

2 bowden tubes plus the original one, all the same size, all the same shape. Seated each one. Broke one because I seated that bastard so hard that I couldn't seat it any further. Wink

@BarryL I thought about that for a second but wrote it off thinking that it had to be the one direction. Thinking back, maybe I should of tried it. I did wonder if I put the new(to me) one on backwards or not and had to double check for sanity.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

where are you buying your cable's?
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 6:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have had this issue as well, so has a friend, both on stock buses. We tried different bowden tubes from different years, og and new, and it made no difference. In the end we just compressed the lever a little to get it started and are hoping for the stretch I guess. There was still plenty of room to get the proper adjustment as the nuts have to be cranked quite a ways to get proper free play in the pedal.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I changed a clutch cable a few years back with the same troubles. The engine was in, and the cable was just a little short of being able to start the wing nut. I finally un-hooked it from the forward attachment point started the wingnut just few threads on and then roped the arm back so i could attach the front of it. And yes Barry L I was full of cuts on my arms, hands and head. Laughing
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 9:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My arms look like a pack of rabid badgers went to shred town on them. I don't mind.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just went thru this on Monday myself Mad cable needs about 5mm
I had 3 to choose from, all different manufactures, same part # and within 1-2mm from each other
Bowden tube needs about 1" of flex for trany movement
I ended up clamping small vice grips to the end of the threads for a handle between my thumb & index finger so I could pull it to the trans arm, then with my index finger pull the arm to the cable just enough to get the wingnut started a few threads then make the adjustment
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