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hans j Samba Member

Joined: May 06, 2006 Posts: 2743 Location: Salt Lake City UT
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Posted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 10:35 pm Post subject: Rear inner CV boot protectors? |
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I'll be finishing my new rear skid plate tomorrow and it nearly lines up perfect with the trans so I have an opportunity to easily build some heavy duty rubber flaps to protect the boots.
Good? Bad?
I know I rarely see anything happen except just the occasional normal tear from age. I am more concerned about sticks poking or rocks kicking up and hitting them. Pretty much the same idea as the front outer protectors (I'll get to building those someday).
I already have the brackets made and hardware to attach them. I just wanted to run the idea past others before I weld the brackets on tomorrow.
Some pictures to look at:
I believe this is some old conveyor belt? I have a big roll of it I have been holding on to for years and years hoping it will be useful someday! 1/4" thick or so.
_________________ 1986 Canadian Syncro Westy TDI - 1989 Syncro Single Cab - 2001 Audi S4 - 1981 VW Caddy ABA - 1980 VW Caddy EV - 1973 VW T-181 |
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tencentlife Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2006 Posts: 10153 Location: Abiquiu, NM, USA
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Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 9:41 am Post subject: |
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I think that's a great idea, Hans. I've definitely lost inner boots offroading that shielding would have prevented. _________________ Shop for unique and useful Vanagon accessories at the Vanistan shop:
https://intrepidoverland.com/vanistan/
also available at VanCafe.com!
Please don't PM here, I will not reply.
Experience is death to doctrine. |
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hans j Samba Member

Joined: May 06, 2006 Posts: 2743 Location: Salt Lake City UT
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Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 7:46 pm Post subject: |
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Got them done and I like them!
_________________ 1986 Canadian Syncro Westy TDI - 1989 Syncro Single Cab - 2001 Audi S4 - 1981 VW Caddy ABA - 1980 VW Caddy EV - 1973 VW T-181 |
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syncrodoka Samba Member

Joined: December 27, 2005 Posts: 12397 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 7:56 pm Post subject: |
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| How are you going to remove the CV axle assemblies now? |
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hans j Samba Member

Joined: May 06, 2006 Posts: 2743 Location: Salt Lake City UT
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Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 8:02 pm Post subject: |
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| syncrodoka wrote: |
| How are you going to remove the CV axle assemblies now? |
Just pull them out towards the rear of the car if the skid plate is attached. You can't go down with a stock skid plate installed anyway. It's only 6 bolts if I have to pull it down. There is still at least an inch of clearance around the CVs. _________________ 1986 Canadian Syncro Westy TDI - 1989 Syncro Single Cab - 2001 Audi S4 - 1981 VW Caddy ABA - 1980 VW Caddy EV - 1973 VW T-181 |
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syncrodoka Samba Member

Joined: December 27, 2005 Posts: 12397 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 8:16 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah, i know how they come out on a stock system. Have you tested that it clears your improved version? It looks like you made the skid plate wider and eliminated the option of swinging the axle forward as well as the engine hanger is close at the rear.
Just a observation, but it could be the camera angles of course. |
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hans j Samba Member

Joined: May 06, 2006 Posts: 2743 Location: Salt Lake City UT
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Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 8:41 pm Post subject: |
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It's actually more narrow, at least on the passenger side. When I take it off again I'll lay it on the one I cut off for comparison. And the engine carrier bars are far enough away. I got the axles back in without even thinking about the clearance when I built the engine subframe. _________________ 1986 Canadian Syncro Westy TDI - 1989 Syncro Single Cab - 2001 Audi S4 - 1981 VW Caddy ABA - 1980 VW Caddy EV - 1973 VW T-181 |
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Greystar Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2007 Posts: 48 Location: CT
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Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 6:38 am Post subject: |
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That is a great idea and it looks good. Now how about protecting the coolant hoses? _________________ '87 syncro gl |
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ragnarhairybreeks Samba Member

Joined: October 26, 2009 Posts: 1944 Location: Sidney B.C. Canada
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Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 8:37 am Post subject: |
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Hans,
I think that is a great idea and I bet it works well.
I tried an alternate method, ie making the skid plate wider to protect the inner joints (and to some degree the fuel pump). I only did it this way because I had a bit of aluminum plate that was a convenient width. I don't have any illusions that my plate is meant as protection while doing any rock crawling, it is just to protect against flying road debris and the occasional lump encountered on logging roads.
alistair _________________ '86 7 passenger syncro, converted to westy pop top, project still in progress
'82 westy, diesel converted to gas in '94, now gone...
https://shufti.blog/
Old address still works...
http://shufti.wordpress.com |
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hans j Samba Member

Joined: May 06, 2006 Posts: 2743 Location: Salt Lake City UT
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Posted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 9:54 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Alistair, I actually refer to your blog quite a bit to get ideas and see pictures
Here is a comparison of my new one versus the factory one. It is almost the same width at the CV joints and narrower the rest of the way.
If only it weighed as much as a stock one  _________________ 1986 Canadian Syncro Westy TDI - 1989 Syncro Single Cab - 2001 Audi S4 - 1981 VW Caddy ABA - 1980 VW Caddy EV - 1973 VW T-181 |
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Syncro Jael Samba Member

Joined: December 19, 2013 Posts: 2204 Location: Utah
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Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 1:14 pm Post subject: |
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That looks great!  _________________ 1987 Syncro Westfalia Hightop - NAHT
Subaru EJ25 Forged Frankenmotor, Triple Knob.
Jael = (Mountain Goat) |
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