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Westified
Samba Member
Joined: May 01, 2012
Posts: 402
Location: Miami, FL
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 Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 9:50 am Post subject: |
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You are welcome. Here is some additional info on the fuse layout for 83.5-85.
Fuse # Amperage Identification
1 8 Amp (White) Left Tail, Parking & Side Marker Lights
2 8 Amp (White) Right Tail Parking, Side Marker & License Lights
3 8 Amp (White) Left Low Beam
4 8 Amp (White) Right Low Beam
5 10 Amp (Green) Left High Beam & Indicator Light
6 10 Amp (Green) Right High Beam
7 16 Amp (Red) Radiator Fan
8 Jumped to Interior Lights, Cigarette Lighter, Stoplights
9 Aux Battery Emergency Flasher System, Radio
10 16 Amp (Red) Windshield Wiper/Washer, Blower
11 8 Amp (White) Turn Signals
12 8 Amp (White) Horn, Back-Up Lights
Additional Fuses At Right Of Fuse Panel
13 8 Amp (White) Rear Window Heating
15 16 Amp (Red) Auxiliary Heater (If Equipped)
Additional Fuses Next to Fuse Panel (Left of Steering Column)
17 20 Amp (Yellow) Air Conditioning
18 25 Amp (Beige) Air Conditioning
Additional Fuses - Camper Models (Driver's Door Post)
19 16 Amp Refrigerator
20 8 Amp Water Pump
you may have to search a bit and remove the lower steering column cover to see them.
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1984 Westy Wolfsburg, owned since 1987. FAS 2.0 NA engine conversion in 2022. |
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Westified
Samba Member
Joined: May 01, 2012
Posts: 402
Location: Miami, FL
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| Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 9:56 am Post subject: |
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Here is a photo of my fuse holder with the 25 amp (AC blower) fuse holder melted. The 25 amp fuse holder is hidden under the bottom steering wheel cover. The 25 amp is the fuse farthest to the right.
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1984 Westy Wolfsburg, owned since 1987. FAS 2.0 NA engine conversion in 2022. |
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nevadaesh
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Joined: May 08, 2013
Posts: 214
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| Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 11:20 am Post subject: |
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Westified, Thanks for the very pertinent info. Do you know what happened with the fuse? Are there replacements available? Just asking, thinking I will run into things like this when I dive into this project.
Gary
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'85 Westy
'07 FJC
'02 Camry |
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Westified
Samba Member
Joined: May 01, 2012
Posts: 402
Location: Miami, FL
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| Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 5:56 pm Post subject: |
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I am trying to figure out what caused the melt down. A friend of mine who is a truck mechanic felt the fuse holder was at fault, with a poor connection causing resistance. My VW mechanic thinks it is the evaporator fan (blower fan in the back) creating to much resistance (will need to be rebuilt since there are no replacements). Currently I am in the process of replacing the AC hoses since one has ruptured with a boom next to the propane tank, scared the crap out of me (I have converted to 134a).
Regarding the fuse holder, yes you can still get the part from VW. Per VW South parts in Miami: ORIGINAL PART NUMBER FROM THE FUSE HOLDER (161-937-501). I CROSS REFFERENCED IT AND WE ARE CORRECT WITH THE PART WE ARE ORDERING. IT SUPERSEEDED TO 1H0-937-530. I did get the correct fuse holder but the connectors seemed loose. I couldn't find replacement female connectors like VW used so I replaced the 25 amp fuse holder with a Blue Seas 25 amp breaker from West marine. The blower now works but I haven't thoroughly tested it until I get the hoses replaced.
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1984 Westy Wolfsburg, owned since 1987. FAS 2.0 NA engine conversion in 2022. |
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nevadaesh
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Joined: May 08, 2013
Posts: 214
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| Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 7:57 pm Post subject: |
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Well, I got the A/C belt on and tomorrow I'll see if anything works. Crossing my fingers.
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'85 Westy
'07 FJC
'02 Camry |
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nevadaesh
Samba Member
Joined: May 08, 2013
Posts: 214
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| Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2014 5:47 pm Post subject: |
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Latest update.
New hoses, expansion valve, drier, trinary switch and compressor. Just got the compressor today and will be going on real soon. I have decided to have a shop in Vegas charge the system. They have no issue with charging with R-12. Had the barrier hoses done there and have been in a couple of more times to talk over issues.
The main issue, still, is the hookup of the trinary switch. In the following pic you seen the switch hooked up to the drier with the connections taped over and just to the left is the wire harness that goes to the evap. In this pic you can see where I stripped the harness to expose the wires inside.
Inside that harness is the single wire that goes to the compressor and I'm assuming that it goes to the thermostat control on the dash. (I still have to determine by resistance if the wire is what I think it is) I have already opened up the harness and have identified by color all but one wire. The guy at the auto AC place told me the following: Once the wire to the clutch is confirmed, splice the pressure switch into it. I did get a relay from them and this is how they said to wire it:
The switch, of course, has both high and low wires, but he said to combine those two and hook up as above. He said that it doesn't matter if there is an issue with either the hi or low pressures, that this configuration will shut down the compressor.
As the fan circuit is separate from the pressure and I will have to get into the dash for that part, they said that that can come later. It would not affect the pressure protection of the switch.
A big question for me is: would there be another relay somewhere along that single line going to the compressor clutch? And if I splice in another relay, what is going to happen? Bad things?
Any and all advice will be appreciated. If I'm going to do something wrong, please let me know before I go ahead with this part.
Gary
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'07 FJC
'02 Camry |
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Altoona
Samba Member
Joined: November 14, 2011
Posts: 505
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| Posted: Fri May 22, 2015 9:42 am Post subject: Re: A/C long term disconnect |
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| denwood wrote: |
| ...the can must be held upside down to ensure liquid, not vapor is charging the system. Having burned through a few extra cans...I'm 100% on that point. |
| Howesight wrote: |
| ...After the first can you load through the low side with vapour, not with liquid, and with the compressor running. |
So, which one is it? Redtek says liquid and this apparently bolstered by denwood's personal experience, but Howesight has gained my trust when it comes to AC procedures. You two have anything to add to this discussion regarding the charging procedure? |
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Farf
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Joined: July 12, 2009
Posts: 463
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Fri May 22, 2015 11:09 am Post subject: |
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Technically it should be liquid charged, however if you are putting in full cans I don't think it matters much. If you think you will only use a partial can charge it with liquid.
Link below gives the "whys".
http://www.refrigerants.com/faqs.aspx |
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Altoona
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Joined: November 14, 2011
Posts: 505
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| Posted: Fri May 22, 2015 11:42 am Post subject: |
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Thanks Farf, so it looks like you just need to be sure to charge slowly when charging liquid.
Good to know about the fractionation of the blends too. |
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smurfpike
Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2010
Posts: 220
Location: Utah
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| Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 8:49 am Post subject: Re: A/C long term disconnect |
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| Howesight wrote: |
| denwood wrote: |
Howesight, on points 6, 4, and 4??, you have it reversed. As per Redtek's technical info, (http://www.redtek.com/win_12a_chargeinstall.html ) the can must be held upside down to ensure liquid, not vapor is charging the system. Having burned through a few extra cans...I'm 100% on that point.
Also please, please edit your post on your connection information. You must not charge at the high side port. If your expansion valve is clogged, or any blockages exist, the can will see upwards of 300 psi, and may explode in your face. Charge only via the low pressure side!!!
| Howesight wrote: |
6. Regardless of which approach you take, now you can go home and install RedTek refrigerant. The instructions tell you not to install it into an AC system with a hard vacuum. Ignore that. Connect the RedTek charging hose to the Red Tek Can and then GET READY TO connect the other end to the high side service port. This really does require a helper to be ready to attach the charging hose to the high side service port while you hold the RedTek can and operate its valve.
4. Note that when the RedTek can is held upside down, Red Tek vapour comes out. When you hold it "right side up" (with the valve on top), liquid Red Tek comes out. Since your AC system has a vacuum, the first can of Red TEk goes in as a liquid and is sucked in by the vacuum. You do it this way to save time.
4. Now that you know everything, use this knowledge as follows: Purge the charging hose for a half a second (holding the can upside down), and then have your helper connect the charging hose to the high-side service port. Once the hose is connected, turn the can so it is "right side up". You will hear the Red Tek going into your system. It is best to do all this in the shade and in the coolest place you can find. Red Tek , like most refrigerants, expands in proportion to the temperature of all the parts in your system and if they have been baking in the sun, you may not get the entire first can in.
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Thanks, Denwood, you are correct on the orientation of the Red Tek cans (brain fart) and I will edit my post accordingly. However, if you have vacuumed your system down to 29, you can add the FIRST can through the high side as a liquid. BUT THE ENGINE AND COMPRESSOR MUST BE OFF. After the first can you load through the low side with vapour, not with liquid, and with the compressor running.
And, to emphasize your point, let me say in full caps, NEVER ATTACH A REFRIGERANT CAN TO THE HIGH SIDE WITH COMPRESSOR RUNNING! |
Howesight
I will be doing this project soon and have a few questions. I will be adding a new compressor, new condenser up front, new lines but using all original connections, rear condenser, and expansion valve. When I bought my camper the system had been open to the elements for who knows how long and I want to get it going with the hot weather here now. I wish a shop would install this here in Utah.
1. What happens if I do not charge the high pressure side and only charge the low side with Redtek?
2. With Redtek what oil do you use and when is it installed.
3. I want to clean the rear condenser, do I just pour the cleaner in and blow the lines out?
Thanks
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1965 Ottinger Tribute Overland Bus
IG @otter.the.overland.bus
FB Ottertheoverlandbus
IG Westyrestorations
FB WestyRestorations, parts and accessories
1987 Syncro "Big Red", Full restoration thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=606596
1978 Westy Camper, Full ground up restoration, restoration thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=593413 |
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Howesight
Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2008
Posts: 3274
Location: Vancouver, B.C.
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| Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 5:39 pm Post subject: Re: A/C long term disconnect |
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| smurfpike wrote: |
| Howesight wrote: |
| denwood wrote: |
Howesight, on points 6, 4, and 4??, you have it reversed. As per Redtek's technical info, (http://www.redtek.com/win_12a_chargeinstall.html ) the can must be held upside down to ensure liquid, not vapor is charging the system. Having burned through a few extra cans...I'm 100% on that point.
Also please, please edit your post on your connection information. You must not charge at the high side port. If your expansion valve is clogged, or any blockages exist, the can will see upwards of 300 psi, and may explode in your face. Charge only via the low pressure side!!!
| Howesight wrote: |
6. Regardless of which approach you take, now you can go home and install RedTek refrigerant. The instructions tell you not to install it into an AC system with a hard vacuum. Ignore that. Connect the RedTek charging hose to the Red Tek Can and then GET READY TO connect the other end to the high side service port. This really does require a helper to be ready to attach the charging hose to the high side service port while you hold the RedTek can and operate its valve.
4. Note that when the RedTek can is held upside down, Red Tek vapour comes out. When you hold it "right side up" (with the valve on top), liquid Red Tek comes out. Since your AC system has a vacuum, the first can of Red TEk goes in as a liquid and is sucked in by the vacuum. You do it this way to save time.
4. Now that you know everything, use this knowledge as follows: Purge the charging hose for a half a second (holding the can upside down), and then have your helper connect the charging hose to the high-side service port. Once the hose is connected, turn the can so it is "right side up". You will hear the Red Tek going into your system. It is best to do all this in the shade and in the coolest place you can find. Red Tek , like most refrigerants, expands in proportion to the temperature of all the parts in your system and if they have been baking in the sun, you may not get the entire first can in.
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Thanks, Denwood, you are correct on the orientation of the Red Tek cans (brain fart) and I will edit my post accordingly. However, if you have vacuumed your system down to 29, you can add the FIRST can through the high side as a liquid. BUT THE ENGINE AND COMPRESSOR MUST BE OFF. After the first can you load through the low side with vapour, not with liquid, and with the compressor running.
And, to emphasize your point, let me say in full caps, NEVER ATTACH A REFRIGERANT CAN TO THE HIGH SIDE WITH COMPRESSOR RUNNING! |
Howesight
I will be doing this project soon and have a few questions. I will be adding a new compressor, new condenser up front, new lines but using all original connections, rear condenser, and expansion valve. When I bought my camper the system had been open to the elements for who knows how long and I want to get it going with the hot weather here now. I wish a shop would install this here in Utah.
1. What happens if I do not charge the high pressure side and only charge the low side with Redtek?
2. With Redtek what oil do you use and when is it installed.
3. I want to clean the rear condenser, do I just pour the cleaner in and blow the lines out?
Thanks |
Answers:
1. The high pressure and low pressure sides of the AC system are connected through the expansion valve and through the compressor. You can do all the RedTek charging through the low side if you want. I only install the first can as a liquid because this is speedier.
2. a. With RedTek, you can use mineral oil or PAG oil.
b. You need to make sure, however, that you do not mix these oils. RedTeks ability to work with either oil is what makes it possible to use RedTek in an R-12 system without flushing out the mineral oil from the system.
c. However, since you are using mostly new parts, and since most new compressors come with PAG oil pre-installed, it is best to flush used components and to use PAG oil. This also allows future removal of the RedTek and replacement with R134A if you sell your van to someone who prefers R134A.
d. My system, with my factory Subaru SVX compressor, needed 8 fluid ounces of PAG oil. If the compressor arrives with oil in it, drain the oil into a container and measure the quantity to verify the stated factory oil fill was done. (Not all the oil will drain out, so allow for that fact). Put, say, four or five ounces in the compressor if it arrived without oil, and three or four ounces (total) in various spots in the system, such as the evaporator, condenser, and the suction line (the fattest hose in the system). The reason for distributing it in this way is to ensure that in the first few minutes of operation, the RedTek vapour going to the compressor has some oil in it to lubricate the compressor. (After the system is run for the first few minutes, there will be oil spread throughout the system.)
e. When to install the oil: If you are confident that you will not have any leaks in your system, then add the oil before vacuuming your system. If not, then vacuum your system first without oil to check for vacuum leaks, repair as needed, and then add the oil and then vacuum again. The key thing is to keep your PAG oil from being exposed to ambient air any longer than necessary because it absorbs ambient water vapour.
3. The rear condenser is actually called the evaporator. I used what is called a flush gun. It works like an old water-filled fire extinguisher used to. You fill the pressure bottle with AC flush (or air-brake anti-freeze), apply compressed air to the bottle contents, and use the rubber tip on the gun to spray or squirt the flush fluid through the evaporator. On an old VW evaporator, it might be a good idea to then swish the fluid from side to side by rocking the evaporator from side to side. With a real professional flush system, you could leave the evaporator in place, but for us Flintsones DIY guys and our Harbour Freight tools, you really have to have the evaporator out of the vehicle. Drain the flush liquid. Repeat until the flush liquid comes out clear. Everything you flush should be blown out after with CLEAN compressed air.
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'86 Syncro Westy SVX |
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Howesight
Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2008
Posts: 3274
Location: Vancouver, B.C.
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| Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2015 7:15 pm Post subject: Re: A/C long term disconnect |
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| Altoona wrote: |
| denwood wrote: |
| ...the can must be held upside down to ensure liquid, not vapor is charging the system. Having burned through a few extra cans...I'm 100% on that point. |
| Howesight wrote: |
| ...After the first can you load through the low side with vapour, not with liquid, and with the compressor running. |
So, which one is it? Redtek says liquid and this apparently bolstered by denwood's personal experience, but Howesight has gained my trust when it comes to AC procedures. You two have anything to add to this discussion regarding the charging procedure? |
ANSWER:
1. Real AC shops do not dick around with our slow DIY techniques. They usually have sophisticated equipment that uses a pump or compressor to inject the precise amount of refrigerant (measured by weight) that is specified by the vehicle manufacturer. They do this WITHOUT THE VEHICLES ENGINE OR COMPRESSOR RUNNING.
2. Generalist automotive technicians often do not have this sophisticated equipment and use a technique similar to what us DIY guys use. The difference is that they use a large canister (looks like a 20 pound propane tank but painted green), to install refrigerant in much the same way we DIY guys do, except they weigh the canister before the start of installing the refrigerant, determine the OEM refrigerant specification, and have a target weight for the canister. They then can fill the AC system, through the low-side port, in the same way we DIY guys do, except that they do not have to stop to exchange cans of R134A or RedTek.
3. Denwood and I were confirming which way one must hold the RedTek can in order to get liquid or vapour out of it. I assumed, incorrectly, that there was a siphon tube in the RedTek cans. There is not.
4. The discussion was NOT about whether one should install RedTek as a liquid or as a vapour. We are agreed on that. Any time the engine and compressor in your van are rotating, you should not introduce liquid refrigerant into the system. The reason is that the compressor is not designed to handle liquid - - because liquid is not compressible.
5. Having said all that, once you have vacuumed your system down to 29 inches of mercury, the combination of that vacuum and the pressure inside a RedTek can at room temperature, is sufficient to quickly draw into your NOT RUNNING system the contents of one (1) can of RedTek in liquid form. If you want, you can allow it to be drawn in as a vapour, but you will wait a long time for this to occur.
6. It is VERY GOOD to have the first of the 2.5 to 3 cans of RedTek in your system before you ever run the compressor, because that one can of RedTek will then spread the oil through the system and keep your compressor lubricated. Do not run the compressor to suck in that first can!
7. Whether you choose the fast or the slow way to install the first can, you must not run the compressor until that first can is in the system. If you choose the slow way, you may end up having to heat the RedTek can with a hair drier or heat gun to get the RedTek to go into your system.
8. AFTER INSTALLING THE FIRST CAN, you can install the remaining 1.5 to 2 cans with the compressor running, BUT BE SURE TO HAVE THE REDTEK CAN ORIENTED WITH THE OUTLET UP. What is actually happening at this stage, and until the fill is completed, is that the compressor is applying vacuum to the low side of your system and the pressure in your system is, as a result, lower than the pressure in the can of RedTek. This allows the liquid RedTek to boil in the can and the vapour to be sucked into your system. If you allow the can to tip over, then your system will suck liquid RedTek into the compressor and ruin the compressor. This is what must be avoided.
9. The last can of RedTek will go in unbearably slowly if you do not apply some heat to the RedTedk can. What others can bear is probably different to me, bacause impatience is my middle name.
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'86 Syncro Westy SVX |
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Farf
Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2009
Posts: 463
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Sat Jun 20, 2015 8:40 pm Post subject: |
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Liquid charging: I've used the term loosely in this and other posts. For that I apologize. Howesite, TK, Denwood et al.; are absolutely correct in highlighting the potential damage that can occur when introducing liquid refrigerant directly to the compressor when charging on the low pressure side.
The a/c industry definition of liquid charging is: taken from linked article below quote)
"Liquid charging does not mean that liquid refrigerant should be pushed into the suction line of the system and that it be allowed to slug the compressor. After the initial charge into the high side of a system, the compressor can be started and charging can be completed by flashing the refrigerant from liquid to vapor in the charging hose or across specially designed valves. Any method which allows the refrigerant to go to vapor before it hits the compressor should work. Generally, the refrigerant needs to be added slowly at this point".
http://www.achrnews.com/articles/82752-blends-101-an-introduction-to-refrigerants
Info in the article supports the initial charge goes into into the highside. Do not do this with compressor running!!! After you've installed the first can of Redtek there is no reason to open the highside manifold valve again.
Supporting info: (other good technical info too)
http://www.refrigerants.com/faqs.aspx
For those that actually read the above links, if you are not comfortable metering the liquid charge with your compound gauge there is a handy adapter that meters the liquid refrigerant for you. Link below.
http://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-41123-Charging-Adapter/dp/B005DLBXWU
If you decide to charge with vapor, understand that you might not use the a final full can and it should be charged as a liquid.
On a totally unrelated note, there has been a number of posts regarding the quality of new expansion valves. The link below is just some info to ponder. I'm not taking any sides on this one.
https://yorkcentraltechtalk.wordpress.com/2013/08/29/txv-sensing-bulb-location/
Mike |
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smurfpike
Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2010
Posts: 220
Location: Utah
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| Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2015 2:56 pm Post subject: Re: A/C long term disconnect |
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| Howesight wrote: |
| smurfpike wrote: |
| Howesight wrote: |
| denwood wrote: |
Howesight, on points 6, 4, and 4??, you have it reversed. As per Redtek's technical info, (http://www.redtek.com/win_12a_chargeinstall.html ) the can must be held upside down to ensure liquid, not vapor is charging the system. Having burned through a few extra cans...I'm 100% on that point.
Also please, please edit your post on your connection information. You must not charge at the high side port. If your expansion valve is clogged, or any blockages exist, the can will see upwards of 300 psi, and may explode in your face. Charge only via the low pressure side!!!
| Howesight wrote: |
6. Regardless of which approach you take, now you can go home and install RedTek refrigerant. The instructions tell you not to install it into an AC system with a hard vacuum. Ignore that. Connect the RedTek charging hose to the Red Tek Can and then GET READY TO connect the other end to the high side service port. This really does require a helper to be ready to attach the charging hose to the high side service port while you hold the RedTek can and operate its valve.
4. Note that when the RedTek can is held upside down, Red Tek vapour comes out. When you hold it "right side up" (with the valve on top), liquid Red Tek comes out. Since your AC system has a vacuum, the first can of Red TEk goes in as a liquid and is sucked in by the vacuum. You do it this way to save time.
4. Now that you know everything, use this knowledge as follows: Purge the charging hose for a half a second (holding the can upside down), and then have your helper connect the charging hose to the high-side service port. Once the hose is connected, turn the can so it is "right side up". You will hear the Red Tek going into your system. It is best to do all this in the shade and in the coolest place you can find. Red Tek , like most refrigerants, expands in proportion to the temperature of all the parts in your system and if they have been baking in the sun, you may not get the entire first can in.
|
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Thanks, Denwood, you are correct on the orientation of the Red Tek cans (brain fart) and I will edit my post accordingly. However, if you have vacuumed your system down to 29, you can add the FIRST can through the high side as a liquid. BUT THE ENGINE AND COMPRESSOR MUST BE OFF. After the first can you load through the low side with vapour, not with liquid, and with the compressor running.
And, to emphasize your point, let me say in full caps, NEVER ATTACH A REFRIGERANT CAN TO THE HIGH SIDE WITH COMPRESSOR RUNNING! |
Howesight
I will be doing this project soon and have a few questions. I will be adding a new compressor, new condenser up front, new lines but using all original connections, rear condenser, and expansion valve. When I bought my camper the system had been open to the elements for who knows how long and I want to get it going with the hot weather here now. I wish a shop would install this here in Utah.
1. What happens if I do not charge the high pressure side and only charge the low side with Redtek?
2. With Redtek what oil do you use and when is it installed.
3. I want to clean the rear condenser, do I just pour the cleaner in and blow the lines out?
Thanks |
Answers:
1. The high pressure and low pressure sides of the AC system are connected through the expansion valve and through the compressor. You can do all the RedTek charging through the low side if you want. I only install the first can as a liquid because this is speedier.
2. a. With RedTek, you can use mineral oil or PAG oil.
b. You need to make sure, however, that you do not mix these oils. RedTeks ability to work with either oil is what makes it possible to use RedTek in an R-12 system without flushing out the mineral oil from the system.
c. However, since you are using mostly new parts, and since most new compressors come with PAG oil pre-installed, it is best to flush used components and to use PAG oil. This also allows future removal of the RedTek and replacement with R134A if you sell your van to someone who prefers R134A.
d. My system, with my factory Subaru SVX compressor, needed 8 fluid ounces of PAG oil. If the compressor arrives with oil in it, drain the oil into a container and measure the quantity to verify the stated factory oil fill was done. (Not all the oil will drain out, so allow for that fact). Put, say, four or five ounces in the compressor if it arrived without oil, and three or four ounces (total) in various spots in the system, such as the evaporator, condenser, and the suction line (the fattest hose in the system). The reason for distributing it in this way is to ensure that in the first few minutes of operation, the RedTek vapour going to the compressor has some oil in it to lubricate the compressor. (After the system is run for the first few minutes, there will be oil spread throughout the system.)
e. When to install the oil: If you are confident that you will not have any leaks in your system, then add the oil before vacuuming your system. If not, then vacuum your system first without oil to check for vacuum leaks, repair as needed, and then add the oil and then vacuum again. The key thing is to keep your PAG oil from being exposed to ambient air any longer than necessary because it absorbs ambient water vapour.
3. The rear condenser is actually called the evaporator. I used what is called a flush gun. It works like an old water-filled fire extinguisher used to. You fill the pressure bottle with AC flush (or air-brake anti-freeze), apply compressed air to the bottle contents, and use the rubber tip on the gun to spray or squirt the flush fluid through the evaporator. On an old VW evaporator, it might be a good idea to then swish the fluid from side to side by rocking the evaporator from side to side. With a real professional flush system, you could leave the evaporator in place, but for us Flintsones DIY guys and our Harbour Freight tools, you really have to have the evaporator out of the vehicle. Drain the flush liquid. Repeat until the flush liquid comes out clear. Everything you flush should be blown out after with CLEAN compressed air. |
Alright last question, for PAG oil there are a few different types I cant remember the different oil numbers I think 100 etc. Is one better than another?
_________________
1965 Ottinger Tribute Overland Bus
IG @otter.the.overland.bus
FB Ottertheoverlandbus
IG Westyrestorations
FB WestyRestorations, parts and accessories
1987 Syncro "Big Red", Full restoration thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=606596
1978 Westy Camper, Full ground up restoration, restoration thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=593413 |
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Howesight
Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2008
Posts: 3274
Location: Vancouver, B.C.
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| Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2015 3:05 pm Post subject: |
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Hey Smurfpike:
For the viscosity of your PAG oil, you need to reference the recommendation of your compressor manufacturer. The rest of the parts in the system (hoses, condenser, evap, TXV) don't care what the viscosity of the oil is.
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'86 Syncro Westy SVX |
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montanasurfer
Samba Member
Joined: March 06, 2014
Posts: 319
Location: United States
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| Posted: Thu Mar 04, 2021 8:12 am Post subject: Re: A/C long term disconnect |
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Hey folks,
I have an 87 Vanagon gl 7 passenger with a wbx engine. I'm doing my AC rebuild right now. I sent my hoses to be rebuilt. Everything will be new in my system except the evaporator.
Here are my questions after reading this thread and the redtek thread...
- For the green and black sensors that are next to the high pressure port, do those need tape or thread locker applied to the threads? If so what specifically? I disconnected them when I got the hose rebuilt.
- Do the high and low service port adapters also need tape or thread locker? If so what specifically?
- What is the point of adding oil to the lines, condenser, evap, as per the bently if the vacuum process sucks it out anyway?
Thanks![/list]
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1987 Vanagon GL - Wolfsburg Edition |
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Farf
Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2009
Posts: 463
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Thu Mar 04, 2021 11:50 am Post subject: Re: A/C long term disconnect |
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No special tape or sealant needed, you should at the very least use refrigerant oil. I really like the Nylog products, use it on all of your connections, o-rings too.
https://www.refrigtech.com/nylog-red/
The evacuation process does not remove the oil, just vapor. Instead of adding oil to different components you can put the whole amount into the compressor (per Sanden service manual). Much cleaner and easier. |
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MarkWard
Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2005
Posts: 17155
Location: Retired South Florida
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| Posted: Thu Mar 04, 2021 12:18 pm Post subject: Re: A/C long term disconnect |
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That's interesting that Sanden states you can add all the required oil to the compressor crankcase. Not exactly sure how that works. Anyhow, I added the oil to my flushed many times evaporator on the bench while it was out. For the rest of the system, I used the vacuum pump on the low side to draw the required oil into the AC system through the high side compressor line. Compressor was filled on the bench. My logic was the oil would be completely dispersed on first startup. Connected it all up, evacuated and recharged.
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