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Building a 74 mm Stroke by 88 mm bore with 042 or 044 heads?
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Cptn. Calzone
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 4:30 pm    Post subject: head Reply with quote

Machinery will not make you unless you know how to use it otherwise it takes up valuable real estate in the shop. Having said that Roy stated he does own and run all of his machinery, which is admirable and in line with his American made in house philosophy.I fail to see any head in clouds or up one ass due to his statement. Nor to compare him to GEX or Bergmann either.( cause they will f it up)
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 13, 2013 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vwracerdave wrote:
Roy pull your head out of the clouds. Your not the only game in town. Gene Berg, Bernie Bergmann, SCAT, and even GEX has as much or more machinery then you do.


Actually my head is always buried in actually making things. Stop by the shop sometime, I have nothing to hide.
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 13, 2013 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive seen millions of $$$ go down the drain from shops that had all those machines...and didn't know how to properly use them,or how to do much of any thing but make piles for the scrap man to pick up. there is a lot to it,like any thing else it's up to the operator,programer,inspector,cleaner,assembler,QC. if the QC guy dosent know what there looking at or why there looking at it or how to check it. or the parts that are partly cnc machined,then pulled off & finished or cylinder spigots bored diferently on a diferent machine when the entire part should of been done that way on the cnc machine. these days cnc machines are rellitivly cheep,sometimes the moving &freight is more than the machine is.but you still have to be able to do it right.......but who's right is it?? then if you decide you want yours to have a .050" lower rocker stud for more tube clearance,somebody finds it & you now have a head that isant machined right....or is it???damed if you do damed if you dont.welcome to the world of everybody is an exspert & nobody is rong.
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mightymouse
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OH mark how i agree.
I have been at this a long time now, and i would go head to head with anyone on the planet building one of these engines (type 1 ACvw).
I know what i am capable of and am proud of all the time ive spent studying and testing what i know to the fullest.
But in todays world and with the interwebs, it seems people can read a forum for a few years and all the sudden they think they are an expert.
I was just razzed recently by someone for not having my own machine shop?
I laughed my ass off, because having ones own machine shop doesnt mean jack shit about the finished product you are capable of producing.
My current network is one of the strongest i can come up with and it gets better every year.
Having the skills to know what parts work and what parts dont, added with being backed up by multiple seasoned pros, and multiple seasoned machinists makes a much stronger package than say.. the bergmann shop.
Where they "have a machine shop" but not a care in the world if anything they make actually lives and makes big HP. They are only concerned about raking in big cash.

I will skip the limelight and continue putting out bad ass stuff behind the scenes. I sleep great at night and smile when awake knowing how many lives ive changed by building solid engines and then sticking with the client through to completion and making sure the tune keeps the engine i built alive.
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 12:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yup and just because they have been doing it forever dosent mean they know squat or can do poop right,Ive seen a lot of crap come out of very old shops,crap that was nice stuff before they got thier hands on it. the bigest thing is......waite....hear it comes.... 97% of vw owners dont know what there looking at and cant tell if it's done right or not. so that's what keeps them coming back to a bogus,useless,money taking,messed up shop to get more stuff screwed up,or because they made oh somuch power the parts couldent stand it. Shocked yup Ive heard that one a few times. then there is the guy trying to jet down his 44's to be 40's,because his buddy told him the 44 was to big.

I have milling machines,lathe,mig,electric (lazy/weekling)tubing bender,fabrication tools,sunnen rod machine, sunnen cylinder hone,and much much more equipment,tooling,jigs,fixtures.what ever, right hear at home just for me& my toys,I nolonger do anybody elses stuff on my time in my shop,it's just not worth my time. retirement sucks when you dont have time to play.
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 3:13 pm    Post subject: 40 horse rockers on 044 heads? Reply with quote

Very Happy This is a change of subject a little but back to the idea of running 044 heads. Looks like I may have a little too much cam to run them with my stock heater boxes. Now here is my Idea. 40 horse rockers! I understand they are 1:1 ratio so they would reduce the valve lift from .422" to .380" and reduce the 284' duration to 270' Degrees.
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well it all depends on what 044's you have.in stock form there probably no better than a stock casting,but that depends on the casting,I have 2 diferent versions of 044 castings, the early ones had big turds around the guides(i&e) the lator ones not somuch.(unported castings). but I see no reason to use the 044 in a unported application,it's made for a lot of porting options. you would be better off matching the entire combo, like the cam &rocker that you realy need,not just what you have laying around, parts are cheep...but then again so are vw owners Shocked oops who hacked my reply Question Rolling Eyes
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, the 044 heads would need to be a ported version not sure which porting option to get? I will have to have the intake manifolds opened up to match them. But did not want to change the cam as I am enjoying driving the bus with the 1800cc Type 1 engine so much that I don't want to be without it for long.
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Brian_e
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just order a set of these with the step cut out and be done with it. Stage 1's are on sale till the end of the year. Pretty cheap for what you are getting. Fully ported and way better cooling than a stock 044.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1069091

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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 11:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was wondering about the Steve Tim's Heads, I thought he had some with 37.5mm X32 mm valves with which I would not need to go to the 40 horse 1:1 ratio rockers? Wonder which would be better?
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modok
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 12:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just tell him you want some heads for your 1800cc bus that make lots of torque and good airspeed and lots of midrange power ect, ect.
The head-porter man probably knows what you need better than you do.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would go with the lostpancheetos before those stage exitleft1 head.but thats me. I wonder what the port cc is on the tims head.
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

modok wrote:
Just tell him you want some heads for your 1800cc bus that make lots of torque and good airspeed and lots of midrange power ect, ect.
The head-porter man probably knows what you need better than you do.


I will try it that way, This is what they said to my first e-mail when I ask about the 37.5mm X 32mm SuperStock Heads:

"Our superstock heads will provide a little boost to your engine. The 37mm seat and the hand blended ports around the seats improve the flow quite a bit, Thanks,
Greg Tims"
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Alstrup
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 1:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Stock Heads or 044 Heads in a VW Bus? Reply with quote

Danwvw wrote:
In looking through my e-mails I came across the one about the 1760cc engine that another 71 VW Camper Bus owner has in his bus. He drove up Crater Lake Hill at 65 MPH in 4th at partial throttle.
1760cc
87mm Bore, 74mm Stroke,
Dual 40 IDF Weber Carburetors
Cam CB-2232 262' and .360 Valve Lift with 1.1:1 Rockers
Heads 044 with 40mm x 35.5mm valves (no step)
CR 8.5:1

vs my engine Crater Lake Hill at 60 mph in 4th up the steep part of the hill at full throttle!
1800cc
88mm Bore, 74mm Stroke,
Dual 36 DRLA Dellorto Carburetors
Cam Web-Cam 163 with 284' and .422 Valve Lift with 1.1:1 Rockers
Heads Stock VW with 35.5mm x32mm valves (with step)
CR 8.5:1

my 1800 cc engine seems to load down to about 60 mph on hills in 4th then it holds that really well with full throttle.
Is it the Heads that make his do a little better or is it the Cam?

Hello.
Bringinīthis subject up again. I didīnt notice it until now.
Iīm a little surprised that John didīnt catch it the first time around. Heīs usually not that easy to leave behind Wink

Anyway. The reason to why the latter engine has a harder time climbing the hill is relatively simple: Engine 1, 8,5 CR. 2232 cam, reasonable port size compared to the displacement. This engine is about at its peak wrt torque and has a lot of it below the pulling rpm.
Engine 2: same CR, Web 163 cam smaller ports. This engine will need another 600 rpm to pull the same dynamic compression as engine 1, because the static CR is about the same, but the cam duration is about 19 degrees more @ 0,050". To gain the same dynamic compression (torque basicly) at the same pulling rpm you would need engine 2 to have about 9,5 -1 CR.

Its that simple Cool

- ESPECIALLY when we are talking bus engines it is very important to design them so they pull torque in the rpm range where they are used. This is a clear example to one engine being good, cammed to the combo (could perhaps even have taken a little more) and the other actally slightly overcammed.

Hope this helps.

T
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 10:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's probably the CR that I would have if I cut that step out! I think there are several little things that may help my Web-Cam 1800cc engine. Perhaps it needs 28mm Venturi's instead of the 30mm Or perhaps I should Open the intake manifolds up to 32mm and the head ports as well. Sounds like the heads are what the shop makes them. One thing is for sure, I don't know enough about porting to do my own.
My Web-Cam 1800cc engine sure is fun to drive though, Pulls hills now over over 60 mph in 4th gear that I used to have to down shift to 3rd gear on. It will run 75mph on the flats with almost no throttle and If I want to pass someone on the interstate doing 75mph it's got a lot more. My Daily Driving MPG's are hanging around 20 or 21 regardless of how I drive it.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alstrup wrote:
Danwvw wrote:
Could the 1:1 ratio rockers be used on a 044 head? I am thinking they would reduce my effective cam duration and valve lift a little. (284', .422") Which I understand may let the 044 head with it's 40mm X 35.5mm valves be used with stock heater boxes on my 1800cc type 1 engine in my 1971 Bus.
Not sure what part number to look for 1:1 Ratio Rockers. Think the 113 101 353E or F Square Boss 40 horse heads had them.

Dan, what you need is larger I.D. heater boxes so you can get better heat control in the cylinderheads. Stock heater boxes along with larger than stock exh. valves is not a good choice.

T
Thanks, Yeah, Figured that out reading Johns Technical articles, I figure it has to do with back pressure is better handled by small exhaust valves. John did leave room for someone like me to speculate when he says that less cam can help when running stock heater boxes and 40mm X 35.5mm valves. And that is just what Engine 1 Above has.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ohh, I think I misunderstood something the first time around. - The stock valved engine is yours ? If thatīs the case you can use stock heater boxes, no problem. My bad Embarassed

T
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 11:43 pm    Post subject: 1800 Type 1 Build Sheet Reply with quote

1800cc Type 1 Engine Build Sheet: Special thanks to everyone here on the Samba that participated.
Machine Work: Local shops,
Misc: Parts and service: Bug Germinators, North Bend OR and 2nd Street Foreign Car Service Coos Bay Oregon.
Engine Case: 1971 VW Bus AS-41 Magnesium, Inserted for 10mm studs, Full Flow oil return and block off, Stock 1600 Cylinder Openings.
88mm Bore, 74mm Stroke,
Dual 36 DRLA Dellorto Carburetors,
Cam Web-Cam 163 with 284' 250' at .050" and .422" Valve Lift with 1.1:1 Rockers, Web-Cam 163 Profile
Heads German 113 Dual Port cut for 90.5mm cylinders (with step), 3 angle valve job and port matched using stock VW 35.5mm(used german intake) x32mm(new exhaust valves) with new Single HD Valve Springs,
Solid Rocker shaft from CB-Performance, 1.1:1 Ratio stock VW rockers,
CB-Performance Elephant Feet Adjusters,
Bug Pack Aluminum Push Rods (Stock Length)
Push Rod Tubes are CB Performance 1565 Large ID Racing,
Lifters are cb-performance 1537 UltraLightWeight 28mm,
Valves Springs Single HD Racing. Valve guides Stock VW
CR 8.5:1
Rods 5.325" H Beam Racing Rods from Aircooled.Net,
Crankshaft: 74mm Counterweighted 4340 Forged from Aircooled.Net,
Piston and Cylinders 88mm AA ThickWall from Aircooled.Net
Flywheel Stock VW Surfaced and drilled for 8 dowels,
Pressure Plate: Sachs 200mm Porsche style 1971 and up CB-1324,
Throw Bearing OEM,
Disc Kush Lock Solid,
Scat Aluminum degree pulley, Everything Balanced by part and Dynamically with clutch and flywheel mounted to the crank,
Electric 12 volt Fuel Pump: 3 1/2 lb Rotary CB-Performance 3193,
Oil Pump 26mm Schadek with Empi Steel Full Flow Cover Plate,
Oil lines and remote filter CB-Performance 1732,
Oil Filter VW Rabbit Type Mann W719/5
Castrol GTX 5W30 motor oil with Lucas TB Plus Zinc Oil Additive,
German Bosch .009 with points, Mechanical Advance Distributor set for Max advance of 33',
Bosch Blue Coil,
Empi Spark Wires,
Spark Plugs are Bosch Super Plus WR8AC+ 14mm X 1/2",
Motorola 12 volt Alternator with Aftermarket External Regulator,
Intake Manifolds: CB performance off-set with hex bar linkage and air-cleaners.
Current Air Correction are : 1.80
Mains: 1.32
Idle: .60
Venturi: 30mm
Extractor, BugPack 4 into 1 1 1/2" single Empi Muffler", Stock Heater boxes.
Stock Trans: 5.375 Ring & Pinion X .82 4th gear and 27" Overall Dia. Rear Tires.


Gear Ratio Calculator Results RPM------------------------>MPH (Imaginary Porsche 924s 5th gear has been added.)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Engine Pictured here with the rear Tin and Bumper removed.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Engine fully installed here:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 1:19 pm    Post subject: Sachs Clutch in 1971 Bus does not seem adequate! Reply with quote

When I rebuilt the engine I was going to use a Kennedy Stage 2 clutch but several recommend here in this post that it would be too much and rough on the throw out arm etc...
So I just got a regular Sachs 200mm clutch as recommended but used the Kush Lock disc with it instead of the Sachs rigid disc.
Last week I was pulling out into traffic making a left coming up a hill on the side street I was on and my and had the bus revved pretty good when I let out the clutch. And it just slipped slowly moving me out into the busy street. Once the bus was level ground it smoothly stopped slipping and has been fine since! This whole event probably took just 5 or 10 seconds but it seemed forever!
Any insight as to what the problem is?
Kush Lock Disc that I used:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Sachs Disc that I came with the Sachs Pressure Plate:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

My Flywheel:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The Sachs Pressure Plate balanced to the flywheel:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The two clutches side by side:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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W1K1
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

look for oil on the bellhousing, the engine main seal or the transmission may be leaking on you clutch.
I had the same thing last year with a leaky seal, it would slip under heavy load and gradually got worse over a couple weeks till I replaced it
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