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Subaru Conditioner - I think I really screwed up!
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Syncro Jael
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 8:18 pm    Post subject: Subaru Conditioner - I think I really screwed up! Reply with quote

After reading all the comments on different threads about Subaru Conditioner I decided to add a bottle to my rig with an EJ22 Subaru motor. I know this engine does not have any problems but I thought the conditioner couldn't hurt.

So I took the expansion tank cap off, removed enough antifreeze so the entire bottle would fit. As soon as I poured it in it fizzed, foamed a little and I topped the tank back off with coolant and put the cap on. Then went back and started the engine.

Today my radiator now seems clogged. I drove about 400 miles today and as soon as I turned the front and rear heaters off my temperature gauge started to rise to the point where the fan would kick on, and I was going 65 down the highway. I turned the front heater valve back on and the temp immediately dropped. With both heaters on it cooled down back to where the thermostat normally keeps the gauge. I put a heat gun on the radiator and it was never over 70º anywhere I shot it. Some places along the edges were 60º. The large coolant tubes were at about 105º. Outside temps ranged from 40-60º on my drive today.

I am guessing my radiator was really close to being plugged and adding this while the coolant was probably too hot still, sealed my radiators fate.

I just ordered a new radiator from VC and hopefully get it fixed shortly.

FYI from what I have learned. DO NOT ADD SUBARU CONDITIONER WHILE THE COOLANT IS STILL HOT. I believe this was my mistake. Embarassed

Another lesson learned... Shocked the hard way... again....
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0to60in6min
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you don't mind...

"don't fix it it it ain't broke..."

Very Happy
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SCP_Austin
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What are the Ingredients in the product? A lot of them are heat stable...
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Syncro Jael
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

0to60in6min wrote:
if you don't mind...

"don't fix it it it ain't broke..."

Very Happy


Yup!

But the cooling system has been acting weird lately. Like traveling down the highway with the needle at its NORMAL place on a hill I would shift down into third gear and rev over 4000 RPM and the temperature needle would very quickly drop below the normal spot. Then slowly it would rise back up to where it belongs.

I am guessing the surge, from added RPMS, pushed cold coolant out of the radiator that was not flowing well and that is what the gauge was seeing. Just my thought.

I should remember don't mess with stuff, but I am always trying to keep ahead of the game and get stuff fixed BEFORE it does break. It is hard for me to find that fine line and I always want to kick my self when this crap happens to me.

I just mainly posted this for others since it happened to me, no since someone else learning this by experience also. Rolling Eyes
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seabright_sc
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've used subaru coolant conditoner per directions on both subarus and with my vanagon. No problems whatsoever. I doubt the conditioner caused any problems that may have been right around the corner already.
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furrylittleotter
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No offense but that is ridiculous. I would cancel that radiator order and bleed the air out of you're system. What cooling conversion setup do you have?

Neil2
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dixoncj
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree. Bleed the air and replace your thermostat for good measure. Might be all you need. Air in a system will make it do all kinds of crazy shite.
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

how long have you had this subie 2.2 in and running?
have you ever before turned off BOTH front & REAR heaters?
do you have a Thermostat bypass loop in the subaru conversion engine plumbing? a Shiels device? or other T-stat coolant correction?
this http://subaruvanagon.com/tom/Thermostat%20housingk.htm
or this http://www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/HTML/05/02/slideshow.html

I also don't blame the coolant conditioner, but some other newly touched misfortune.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How did you turn the rear heater off? Did you just turn off the fan or did you turn off the lever on the side of the heater? It sounds like maybe you did the latter which combined with the lever for the front heater being off would cause the engine to very quickly overheat if there is no bypass circuit installed.

Other parts of your post don't make much sense. If there is no flow or minimal flow to the radiator then the cooling fan should not be coming on. The switch for the fan hasn't a clue what temperature the engine is at, just the temperature of the left tank on the radiator, which you say is only 105*F, well below the set point of the fan switch.

I don't think your problems have anything at all to do with the Subaru conditioner or how it was used.
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Syncro Jael
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting comments.

This is an old KEP conversion done 10 years ago.

The rear heater is plumbed for the Subaru bypass. Fluid always goes through the core. The valve is zip tied open.

I was very careful to not get any air in the system during installation of the Subaru Conditioner. But I will check and bleed the system just to make sure.

The water pump and thermostat were changed about 3k miles ago.

I was concerned that putting the conditioner in hot antifreeze made it do something weird.

After checking and bleeding the system I will let you know what I came up with.

Thanks again for all your comments. It is just strange this happened right after adding the conditioner.
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most of the conditioners will start to gel up when air is present.
Yes they are heat activated, but need the air bubbles for them to pick a spot to try and clog up.

With the older conversions, it was not mandatory for the radiator to be replaced with new.
I have always replaced the rad when converting for a fresh start.

I highly doubt the conditioner is the problem.
With a new rad, you will see a huge difference in the cooling system.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Syncro Jael wrote:
Interesting comments.

This is an old KEP conversion done 10 years ago.

The rear heater is plumbed for the Subaru bypass. Fluid always goes through the core. The valve is zip tied open.


Something is still quite odd in your symptoms. Have you checked that the rear heater is actually getting hot? The return should still be fairly hot with the fan on. Maybe something broke loose and clogged the orifice?

Nothing really explains why your fan is coming on, unless the thermostat just opens occasionally and then dumps a slug of very hot coolant to the radiator. If this were happening the fan would only cycle for a short while and not run continuously.

I don't think the conditioner is the problem. Maybe the act of adding the conditioner did something to the system. FWIW, a stock system in good condition will self purge a small amount of air. An aged non-stock system might not though.
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furrylittleotter
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

THis "randomly occurring out of nowhere" overheating phenomena is one I have read about for years and experience myself.

I would suggest you do one of two things,

install Tom Shields bypass:

(with or without reversed manifold)
http://subaruvanagon.com/tom/Cooling%20System%20Kit.htm,

Smallcar's modified pipe:
http://www.smallcar.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29905
(It looks like they have quit selling the pipe by itself, call to verify)

Burley's bypass:
http://burleysmotorsports.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3

Or, do what I did and install a 1/4npt by 1/4hose barb in the coolant manifold by the outlet and one in the water pump BEFORE the thermostat and a 1/4 hose between the two.
THis mod can be done without removing any engine components except the upper radiator hose and the thermostat housing. One hour max.

Before this I was seeing all kinds of randomness. sometimes it was fine for weeks, then out of nowhere, overheating. Now it is perfect all the time.

You almost definitely did not clog your radiator by adding conditioner.

I will add PLENTY of people have NOT added this bypass and are just fine going through the rear heater core as you have been, but my mod cost $12 and can be done in an hour.

Try it you might like it.

Neil2
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Syncro Jael
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

furrylittleotter wrote:
THis "randomly occurring out of nowhere" overheating phenomena is one I have read about for years and experience myself.

Neil2


Shocked Ok, went out this morning 40º outside.
Pulled the grill off to get to the radiator bleed screw. Opened up the rear engine compartment to get to the expansion and overflow reservoirs.

First thing I noticed is the overflow bottle was down from my NORMAL mark I put on the side. I really watch to see if I am losing coolant and make sure the cap on the expansion tank is working by the fluctuation in the overflow tank.

I started it up and began taking readings on all the hoses and the radiator. Everything is working as it should now! Shocked I had the front heater valve off and all the heater fans turned off. Like I said the rear heater core lever is always on and is always hot.

The radiator heated up to 175º and the fan was cycling on and off as it should. The thermostat housing set right at 180º and the large hoses to and from the radiator were in the 170º range give or take.

I am guessing an air bubble? Not sure how that happened because I was really careful to keep the expansion tank full above the out let hose barb.

I will take it for a run here in a bit and check things out.
As you remember yesterday, the radiator was not hot at all!

Thanks to you all for your comments.
It is really nice to wake up and have the Syncro fix itself overnight! Laughing

I am interested in the bypass you spoke about. But I have driven thousands of miles without any issues. Just random stuff.

Cool
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furrylittleotter
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okey dokey. aks me what happens when this occurs one time too many or you have to make a coolant system repair on the road…

What you described is exactly the way Leon Korkin bleeds his system, fill it, let it get hot, let it sit until it cools, fill it again. IT's that whole "let it sit until it cools" part that really hurts when you have a repair on the road.

My system is $12 and takes an hour.
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tschroeder0
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have to agree with furry that this seems like air in a partially bled system. the "random" event is an air bubble.
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kamzcab86
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Syncro Jael wrote:
It is really nice to wake up and have the Syncro fix itself overnight! Laughing


That's Volkswagens for you. They also have this annoying tendency to break things overnight too. Mad


Laughing
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kamzcab86 wrote:
Syncro Jael wrote:
It is really nice to wake up and have the Syncro fix itself overnight! Laughing


That's Volkswagens for you. They also have this annoying tendency to break things overnight too. Mad


Laughing


Yeah, they are known for getting up on the wrong side of the garage. Crying or Very sad Wink Crying or Very sad
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dobryan
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tom Shiels coolant bypass has cured my random cooling issues as well. Your system may be 'fixed' for now.... or so you hope.
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