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Tom Powell Samba Member
Joined: December 01, 2005 Posts: 4855 Location: Kaneohe
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Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 11:49 am Post subject: rear brake grind |
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I have had a grinding noise from the right rear brake. I believe it is from the neighbors automatic lawn sprinklers which watered that side of the vehicle as well as their lawn. That has caused the drum to rust. The noise decreases after use of the brakes. It took me a couple of days to source the problem and I've changed my parking place. I've put about 1000 miles on the highway. But I can still hear some noise from that drum, but not nearly as loud and bad as when it was getting watered. Maybe I've become sensitive but I still hear a bit of noise. I looked at the inspection hole and there seems to be plenty of lining.
I'm a bit reluctant to pull the drum for lack of tools and am considering going to Bela in Burbank for an inspection. In the meantime I plan on driving in town as if there was no problem.
Aloha
tp |
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Syncro Jael Samba Member
Joined: December 19, 2013 Posts: 2204 Location: Utah
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Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 12:36 pm Post subject: |
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Pretty easy to just check the brake innards
Remove rear axle cotter pin
46mm socket and 4' cheater bar.
Have someone hold the brake pedal down while you grunt the 350# torqued axle nut off.
Block the front tires.
Jack up the rear.
Remove the axle nut all the way and grab the tire, rim, drum, hub all at once and slide off.
All your brake parts will be visible to you along with your outer grease seal on the bearing carrier.
Self inspection can lead to a good nights sleep
Reverse the process and calc your weight and distance on the cheater to get close to 350# torque on the nut. Or find someone with a really expensive torque wrench to check it for you! _________________ 1987 Syncro Westfalia Hightop - NAHT
Subaru EJ25 Forged Frankenmotor, Triple Knob.
Jael = (Mountain Goat) |
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syncrodoka Samba Member
Joined: December 27, 2005 Posts: 12006 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 9:38 pm Post subject: |
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Syncro Jael wrote: |
Pretty easy to just check the brake innards
Remove rear axle cotter pin
46mm socket and 4' cheater bar.
Have someone hold the brake pedal down while you grunt the 350# torqued axle nut off.
Block the front tires.
Jack up the rear.
Remove the axle nut all the way and grab the tire, rim, drum, hub all at once and slide off.
All your brake parts will be visible to you along with your outer grease seal on the bearing carrier.
Self inspection can lead to a good nights sleep
Reverse the process and calc your weight and distance on the cheater to get close to 350# torque on the nut. Or find someone with a really expensive torque wrench to check it for you! |
It is much easier than that to check brakes...
Pull off the rim and remove the drum- leave the hub and axle nut intact. |
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morymob Samba Member
Joined: November 09, 2007 Posts: 4683 Location: east-tn
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Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 4:53 am Post subject: |
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Had that problem on an'84 i drove a lot, was dust from shoes building up, couldn't get out, dump it & ok for awhile. Solved by using a trick form 'old' brand x cars with a hole drilled at inside of drum past area of shoe contact, in corner. Never had problem anymore with many tho/yrs driven. Some of them had a loud squeal when brakes used, used a very stout spring wrapped on outside of drum to stop it. |
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