Rocky Jennings Rear Heater Valve - Beefy!

LandSailor

Like most folks with wives who don't like being cold and not enough funds to get the Propex, removing the rear heater was met with much resistance. However, the constant, but slow, drip, drip, drip needs to be fixed.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1407932

I ordered one of these on Thursday. It arrived Saturday via USPS Priority Mail. As mentioned in the ad, you have to enlarge the heater core holes to 1/4". My core looks like it's in good shape, but if it breaks when drilling it, well, at least I can shut it off solidly while I wait for the replacement. Smile

"Beefy" doesn't come close to describing the valve. For a few bucks more than the almost always out of stock original, I think this is the way to go. I don't know what mods are required to the cover to allow for the larger size. If by some strange chance it does actually leak, at least it's repairable, too.

The hurriedly shot phone pic didn't turn out well, so I will take some install pics when I do the job.

Yondermtn · Posted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 12:43 pm Post subject:

I'd love to see and hear more details of your installation so keep us updated. Smile

_________________
1977 Westfalia 2.0FI 4spd
1990 Multivan 2.1 Auto

bmxanddie · Posted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 10:09 pm Post subject:

This looks great!

iltis74 · Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 1:27 am Post subject:

Smart. You're essentially buying the aluminum flange, as everything else, o-ring included, is at your local hardware store. Odds of that ever leaking are slim to none.

carterzest · Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 1:56 am Post subject:

Any and Everything Rocky Jennings does is a tribute to our community Exclamation

You should check out his WBX. He also builds them by hand, one at a time!
_________________
Happiness=Portland, Oregon in the rearview mirror!

svenakela · Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 2:40 am Post subject:

Blue handle is a standard color saying that the valve is made for corroding environments, such as salt water and beyond. Should always be used in ocean going yachts and Vanagons. Smile

LandSailor · Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 12:47 pm Post subject:

Well, it's done. Total time, minus a few stupid moves on my part, was about thirty minutes.

Here's the old valve that was leaking from around the screw:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Those Fluid Line Clamps from Harbor Freight are fantastic! I had no leaks and the hoses show no signs of their application. Cheap, too! I have to say, between these, the Hose Removal Pliers (for the blue pressure cap), and the Made in the USA ramps I bought, my last trip to HF was money well spent.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-fluid-line-clamp-set-65116.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/hose-remover-pliers-66638.html

New bolts installed. I did not have to drill out the heater core as mentioned in the ad. With very little "umphf", they screwed right into the plastic. It didn't feel like it was stressing it, at all.

No photos of me removing the heater core and cleaning it. Very simple job and reassuring to see that it was in good shape. LOTS of hair and dirt caught, though.

Valve installed loosely for test fit.

Comparison shot

OEM hose cut just about where the flow restrictor was located. I found it very difficult to cut the hose and thought I had really screwed up. Eventually, it slid onto the barb with a nice fit, though, but I think the original flare would fit around it, too.

It's hand tight to the radiator flange. "Snug" would be a better word. You do not want to crack the thirty year old plastic, so be firm, but gentle.

The restrictor does not fit in the barb opening. That might be a nice addition to the kit since the throat of the valve is definitely bigger than the diameter of the restrictor. Also, don't think that little piece of rubber will fit in the opening of the heater core. It pops right in!

It was tested for leaks. None were found, and the cover fits right over it. The modifications mentioned in the ad are likely so you can operate the valve without removing the cover.

Excellent product. Shipped quickly and on-time. I have a small road trip coming up tomorrow, so it should get a good test at highway speeds.

The only suggestions I would offer to the kit would be an Instruction Sheet and possibly a Delrin or similarly machined flow restrictor to maintain the originally engineered flow rate.

blaze80 · Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 2:16 pm Post subject:

Looks great! I bought just the aluminum flange and plan to get the brass ball valve and barb fitting from hardware store. Has anyone used just the aluminum flange and built rest of the assembly?> If so, what size ball valve and what size barb fitting? I went to Lowes and HD and neither had them! Don't know how the heck they can't stock these seemingly common sized valve parts- but nothing at either- lots of PVC fittings and valves but no brass...any sizes/ recommendations would be appreciated!
Thanks
_________________
/// '89 Syncro Sport Joker, Reimo Hightop, mTDI
/// '90 Carat (SOLD)
/// '06 Audi A4 Avant S-line (SOLD)
/// '92 mk2 Jetta GL 8v (SOLD)
/// '89 'Bluestar' (SOLD)
/// '04 Audi S4 (SOLD)
/// '99 Jetta GLX VR6 (SOLD)
/// '84 Vanagon GL (SOLD)

LandSailor · Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 3:56 pm Post subject:

blaze80 · Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 4:17 pm Post subject:

Flange is $40...as you can see on RJ's other ad... yeah, guess I should have fronted the other $40 but too late I suppose.
So I take it you don't know the sizes? Thanks for the input though.
_________________
/// '89 Syncro Sport Joker, Reimo Hightop, mTDI
/// '90 Carat (SOLD)
/// '06 Audi A4 Avant S-line (SOLD)
/// '92 mk2 Jetta GL 8v (SOLD)
/// '89 'Bluestar' (SOLD)
/// '04 Audi S4 (SOLD)
/// '99 Jetta GLX VR6 (SOLD)
/// '84 Vanagon GL (SOLD)

blaze80 · Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 5:26 pm Post subject:

Landsailor- looks like my research time of an hour was worth the $40! Laughing

For anyone looking to go the cheaper route and assembling yourself- you'll need a 3/8" nipple, 3/8" ball valve, a 5/8" hose barb (w/ 3/8" thread), plumbers tape, and I went with 1/4-20 socket cap screws (stainless) and nylon lock nuts to complete the job. As mentioned- my local Lowes and HD didn't have everything but my local family- owned hardware store did.
_________________
/// '89 Syncro Sport Joker, Reimo Hightop, mTDI
/// '90 Carat (SOLD)
/// '06 Audi A4 Avant S-line (SOLD)
/// '92 mk2 Jetta GL 8v (SOLD)
/// '89 'Bluestar' (SOLD)
/// '04 Audi S4 (SOLD)
/// '99 Jetta GLX VR6 (SOLD)
/// '84 Vanagon GL (SOLD)

kalispell365 · Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2014 5:37 pm Post subject:

I just cant get enough of this thing,it looks great!

LandSailor · Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 8:12 am Post subject:

I just realized that he raised the price $10 since I ordered it in February.

tristessa · Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 8:38 am Post subject:

DeadSetMonkey · Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 11:18 am Post subject:

LandSailor · Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 11:31 am Post subject:

[quote="DeadSetMonkey"]

Yondermtn · Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 12:06 pm Post subject:

I just got my valve in the mail today. It's definitely beefier than the stock valve and not much more $$. I do wish the nuts and bolts were included so I don't have to make a trip to the store before I install it, but not a big deal.
_________________
1977 Westfalia 2.0FI 4spd
1990 Multivan 2.1 Auto

kalispell365 · Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 5:13 pm Post subject:

I used a different fitting for where the hose slips on,this one is correct,just like the factory end. Really nice!

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MTM0/5615...;ppt=C0108

The valve in his kit is a Mueller R850, I believe it also is sold at Ace.

Also,the correct mounting hardware is as follows:

6x25 stainless socket head cap screw x2(easier to hold with an allen wrench while tightening the nut.)

m6 stainless flat washer x2 (for under the socket screw head to reinforce the heater core flange.)

m6 stainless lock nut x2

As far as the restrictor, you can purchase a 5/8 O.D. x 1/4 I.D. spacer, 3/4 inch in length, in either nylon or steel,mine was a chrome spacer! and it will fit in the hose and replicate the reducer perfectly.

these should all be available at your local Ace,etc.

Hope this helps.

With all this thread has,you should be able to build a very nice valve thanks to RJE and the other posters.

LandSailor · Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 6:43 pm Post subject:

The bolts and nuts were included with mine, so it was probably an oversight.

mozcar78 · Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 8:03 am Post subject:

Just wanted to add to this for people who want to source their own ball valve.
Its a 'homewerks worldwide' product, 3/8" ball valve.

http://www.midlandhardware.com/531233.html#
_________________
89' Vanagon GL 'Free Candy' Edition
81' Rabbit Truck


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Rocky Jennings Rear Heater Valve - Beefy!
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