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tomnotch
Samba Member
Joined: October 22, 2004
Posts: 788
Location: Key Peninsula, Wash.
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 Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2005 7:27 am Post subject: |
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The alternator is directly in the way for the T3 dip stick to work on a T4 conversion. It could be done, and it would be a bit of fabricating, but I have other things to keep me busy.
| 67FastyRSA wrote: |
Just touching on another stumbleblock you might encounter.... oil filler
Have any of you guys seen if a type 3 filler tube would bolt on correctly to the type iv case? I would love to not to have to open the lid to check oil ....(and top up of course)  |
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Tom
DVKK
DSD, Dark Side Disciples
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67FastyRSA
Samba Member
Joined: September 28, 2004
Posts: 179
Location: Presov, Slovak Republic
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| Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2005 7:45 am Post subject: |
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| thanks for the feedback... I have all the parts but couldn't check yet so as always ... thanks for saving me time |
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Poor Realist
Samba Member
Joined: August 25, 2003
Posts: 305
Location: Stockholm SWE
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| Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2005 3:00 pm Post subject: |
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| 67FastyRSA wrote: |
Just touching on another stumbleblock you might encounter.... oil filler
Have any of you guys seen if a type 3 filler tube would bolt on correctly to the type iv case? I would love to not to have to open the lid to check oil ....(and top up of course) |
Actually, I did it and it works fine for filling, not measuring. I'm thinking about improving it by welding the type 4 flange to the type 3 dipstick stop. The body mounted portion needs some massaging, too.
I personally think this is well worth the effort. |
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Mick
Mick-n-chips
Joined: April 12, 2003
Posts: 415
Location: RADelaide
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| Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2005 8:08 pm Post subject: |
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Clearance for the type 4 engine in a type 3 is no problem.
As for bellows - thats pretty easy. Get some leather and make one up - you just need a conical shape with the correct diameters at each end.
Stitch the two ends together - should work a treat of you get strong enough leather.
Hope this helps
PS - one big prob is mounting the engine if you have an irs car. don't do what I have seen some people do - use a modified bus engine bar that bolts in solidly to the engine mount hangers. This doesn't hold the engine solidly enough and allows the engine to rock side to side along its axis. This is because you're basically mounting the engine from the gearbox mount in the centre at the front and the engine mount in the centre at the rear.
Best solution is to modify your type 3 engine bar to solidly mount to the type 4 case (or something along these lines) then hang it all from the type 3 engine bar mounts.
Also watch out for exhaust clearance - I used shortened j-tubes / collector (you can buy these off of the shelf) and a euro style exhaust which needed a small amount of cutting and rewelding to get to fit behind the rear valence.
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