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1600 engine shakes when I press the gas pedal & no heat
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karmann1st
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2014 10:30 am    Post subject: 1600 engine shakes when I press the gas pedal & no heat Reply with quote

Hi Everyone.

I have a KG coupe 1971 with a 1600cc engine and the H30/31 pic carburetor.

The car was sitting for 4 years and didn't work at all because a small ball inside the carburetor not making gas pass thru.

I cleaned everything and placed new seals.

I started and adjusted the idle, volume control screw and bypass screw.

The engine starts perfect and idles ok (no tachometer to say RPMs).

PROBLEMS:

- when I PRESS the gas pedal, everything moves and accelerate the car..BUT the ENGINE SHAKES a LOT.

- After 7 minutes running I stop the engine and NO HEAT on intake manifold.. is NOT even WARM.!

- I used a small Weeder gas tank container as a gas tank, and the gfas is NO GAS after the 7 minutres test... TOO MUCH GAS also??


At the moment my muffler is OUT of the car so I am testing just the engine.

ANY ideas to help me out??

Thank you all in advance.

Alex
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undecidedbear
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2014 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have the stock muffler, with that off the engine, the pre heater tubes that run under the intake are not getting heat from the exhaust. So thats why the intake is not getting warm. That could also be causing it to run rich, because the air/fuel mixture is not getting vaporized. But im not entirely sure. Try putting the muffler back on and hooking up the pre heater tubes and try it then. Have you tried timing it properly? Adjusted the valves, points?
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karmann1st
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2014 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I changed and calibrate everything... the only major problem is the Shacking of the engine when I press the gas pedal... is like is going to UNSCREW itself.!!! regulating/idling is OK.

Is necessary to have the muffler installed? I just want to check the engine and gear before to unmounted the engine. that is the reason I dint install the new muffler that I have for the car in a box.

Sorry, I do no have the Heating channels/tubes, I eliminate them...

The one that is not getting warm is the one that is under the carburetor and goes to the cylinders probably carrying the mix..

Thank you for the reply.. I appreciate your help a lot!
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MacLeod Willy
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2014 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Start with removing the plugs and checking the wires and distributor cap. Certainly sounds like a misfire under load
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karmann1st
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2014 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nope, no miss fires...

is just hesitation when gas goes into the carb when accelerating... shaking the engine more than normal..
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karmann1st
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2014 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

here are the pictures of my engine setup:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



and

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 1:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't run your Ghia on the road with all the wrong and missing parts in your engine compartment. Too cold? your engine will be frying without the engine tinware...here's what your 1600dp should look like...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Number one replace your fuel lines with the proper fuel hose and place the fuel filter outside of the engine compartment!

The carb you have is too small for the 1600dp...you should have a Solex 34pict and a stock vacuum distributor.

You need the fanshroud to heat exchanger hoses and an air cleaner set-up. Engine tinware is an essential for the aircooled engine...it separates the cooler top half of the engine from the hot bottom end. Take away the separating tinware and on even a warm day your engine will grind to a halt in a shimmering blue haze...not nice.

You can't tune your engine without the exhaust and aircleaner assembly get it in a state ready for the road and then get the engine running.

Others more knowledgeable will be along shortly to expand on these general observations.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

karmann1st wrote:
here are the pictures of my engine setup:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Try swapping plug wire places 3 and 4 on the distributor cap. Right now you have them on the wrong spots.
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karmann1st
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 11:03 am    Post subject: i DON'T KNOW HOW TO QUOTE =BUT I ADDED MY QUESTIONS/PARAGRAP Reply with quote

John Moxon wrote:
Don't run your Ghia on the road with all the wrong and missing parts in your engine compartment. Too cold? your engine will be frying without the engine tinware...here's what your 1600dp should look like...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Number one replace your fuel lines with the proper fuel hose and place the fuel filter outside of the engine compartment!

<<< I KNOW, I HAVE THE CORRECT ONES FOR WHEN I FINISH THE CAR... THIS IS ONLY TO TEST ENGINE AFTRER 4 YEARS SITTING.. I WANT TO BE SURE ENGINE IS OK, IDLE AND TRANSMISSION IS OK ALSO TO TAKE THE ENGINE DOWN TO PAINT TINS, AND DO THE CLUTCH, ETC.. >>>

The carb you have is too small for the 1600dp...you should have a Solex 34pict and a stock vacuum distributor.

<<< SOMEONE REPLACED IT WITH THIS 009 AND I WAS READING THE FORUMS AND ARE PROS AND CONS >>>>

You need the fanshroud to heat exchanger hoses and an air cleaner set-up. Engine tinware is an essential for the aircooled engine...it separates the cooler top half of the engine from the hot bottom end. Take away the separating tinware and on even a warm day your engine will grind to a halt in a shimmering blue haze...not nice.

<<< LIKE I MENTIONED I DELETED THE FAN SHROUD 2 EXITS SINCE I AM NOT USING THE HEATHERS AT ALL .. i HAVE ALL THE TINS AND RUBBER FOR LATER WHEN I FINISH THE CAR... >>>

You can't tune your engine without the exhaust and aircleaner assembly get it in a state ready for the road and then get the engine running.

<<< I DIDN'T KNOW THAT... THANK YOU... MEANING I CAN'T TEST THE ENGINE AND SHFT GEARS TO TEST IN THE CONDITION THE CAR IS NOW? >>>

Others more knowledgeable will be along shortly to expand on these general observations.

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karmann1st
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John Moxon wrote:
Don't run your Ghia on the road with all the wrong and missing parts in your engine compartment. Too cold? your engine will be frying without the engine tinware...here's what your 1600dp should look like...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Number one replace your fuel lines with the proper fuel hose and place the fuel filter outside of the engine compartment!

The carb you have is too small for the 1600dp...you should have a Solex 34pict and a stock vacuum distributor.

You need the fanshroud to heat exchanger hoses and an air cleaner set-up. Engine tinware is an essential for the aircooled engine...it separates the cooler top half of the engine from the hot bottom end. Take away the separating tinware and on even a warm day your engine will grind to a halt in a shimmering blue haze...not nice.

You can't tune your engine without the exhaust and aircleaner assembly get it in a state ready for the road and then get the engine running.

Others more knowledgeable will be along shortly to expand on these general observations.



<<< BY THE WAY, YOU HAVE A BEAUTIFUL ENGINE THERE.!!! >>>
THANK YOU FOR POSTING.
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karmann1st
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
karmann1st wrote:
here are the pictures of my engine setup:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Try swapping plug wire places 3 and 4 on the distributor cap. Right now you have them on the wrong spots.



WOW!, Really?? I do not have any miss fire...
is any map, plan, picture on where the wires are supossed to be??
or can you send me a picture of yours working OK?? to [email protected] thank you!!!
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John Moxon Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

karmann1st wrote:
John Moxon wrote:
Don't run your Ghia on the road with all the wrong and missing parts in your engine compartment. Too cold? your engine will be frying without the engine tinware...here's what your 1600dp should look like...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.




<<< BY THE WAY, YOU HAVE A BEAUTIFUL ENGINE THERE.!!! >>>
THANK YOU FOR POSTING.


Ha! Not my engine but it does belong to a Forum member Erik..."70140". Excuse me for telling you things you may already know but other's view the pictures and read the comments so it's always worthwhile to make what some will consider obvious and other will find enlightening information. Wink
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karmann1st
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John Moxon wrote:
karmann1st wrote:
John Moxon wrote:
Don't run your Ghia on the road with all the wrong and missing parts in your engine compartment. Too cold? your engine will be frying without the engine tinware...here's what your 1600dp should look like...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.




<<< BY THE WAY, YOU HAVE A BEAUTIFUL ENGINE THERE.!!! >>>
THANK YOU FOR POSTING.


Ha! Not my engine but it does belong to a Forum member Erik..."70140". Excuse me for telling you things you may already know but other's view the pictures and read the comments so it's always worthwhile to make what some will consider obvious and other will find enlightening information. :wink:


<<< thank you John!! I appreciate any input, I clarified everything to also let people know that this is a test setup to try the engine and tranny before taking it down.... what do you think about the distributor wires?? I do not see are wrong connected... also this engine from Erik has the gas filter there in the engine bay... regards, Alex >>>>
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Loren
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

x2 on the fuel line! replace that ASAP. Have you checked that all the bolts holding the engine to the transmission are tight? Have you checked the transmission mounts?
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karmann1st
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Loren wrote:
x2 on the fuel line! replace that ASAP. Have you checked that all the bolts holding the engine to the transmission are tight? Have you checked the transmission mounts?


please remember that the fuel line is just for a test, not for driving.
all bolts and tranny mount are perfect...

When I press the gas pedal or give gas auctioning the carburetor the engine move to the left and to the right too much... and the acceleration is not constant anymore... I will try to post a video ..don't know how but I will try. thanks for the help.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 1:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

karmann1st wrote:
Bobnotch wrote:
karmann1st wrote:
here are the pictures of my engine setup:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Try swapping plug wire places 3 and 4 on the distributor cap. Right now you have them on the wrong spots.



WOW!, Really?? I do not have any miss fire...
is any map, plan, picture on where the wires are supossed to be??
or can you send me a picture of yours working OK?? to [email protected] thank you!!!


typically the distributor sits so that #1 is closest to the crank pulley. That is #1 cylinder then going clockwise it goes 1,3, 4, 2. It looks like all your wires are out of place
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

djway3474 wrote:
karmann1st wrote:
Bobnotch wrote:
karmann1st wrote:
here are the pictures of my engine setup:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Try swapping plug wire places 3 and 4 on the distributor cap. Right now you have them on the wrong spots.



WOW!, Really?? I do not have any miss fire...
is any map, plan, picture on where the wires are supossed to be??
or can you send me a picture of yours working OK?? to [email protected] thank you!!!


typically the distributor sits so that #1 is closest to the crank pulley. That is #1 cylinder then going clockwise it goes 1,3, 4, 2. It looks like all your wires are out of place

Close, but no cigar.
The firing order is 1-4-3-2.
#1 & #2 are reversed from what they should be.
It is no wonder that the engine "shakes".
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karmann1st
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 4:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

iowegian wrote:
djway3474 wrote:
karmann1st wrote:
Bobnotch wrote:
karmann1st wrote:
here are the pictures of my engine setup:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Try swapping plug wire places 3 and 4 on the distributor cap. Right now you have them on the wrong spots.



WOW!, Really?? I do not have any miss fire...
is any map, plan, picture on where the wires are supossed to be??
or can you send me a picture of yours working OK?? to [email protected] thank you!!!


typically the distributor sits so that #1 is closest to the crank pulley. That is #1 cylinder then going clockwise it goes 1,3, 4, 2. It looks like all your wires are out of place

Close, but no cigar.
The firing order is 1-4-3-2.
#1 & #2 are reversed from what they should be.
It is no wonder that the engine "shakes".


OMG.. thank you... Iwill try that tomorrow..

the engine can be damaged because of my error wiring the spark plugs???

idling was ok,,, that is what I questioning... waiting to test that tomorrow

thank you again.!!!
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This photo should help......

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Dave
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karmann1st
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

djkeev wrote:
This photo should help......

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Dave


Great Dave! I was trying to find that map on internet but you got it!!
Thank you again, I had the 1 and 2 reversed as I see on the map ..

I wil check tomorrow!!! Thank you.....

Hopefully my engine is OK after having the engine running for 7 minutes with the wires reversed.


Also perhaps the gas consumption was that....
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