Testing FI Power in Engine Compartment Before Engine Install

[oscarsnapkin]

I'm just finishing up the work I needed to do on my Bus before I can install my engine. However, I would like to address any electrical problems that I may have with the FI system before engine installation while it is still easy to access everything. The PO ripped out the FI system to replace it with a Weber progressive. Some of the wiring work that has been done has been shady to say the least, such as using household romex wire for his homemade ignition switch. Fortunately it doesn't appear as if anything has been ripped out that was originally there. What I am wondering is, if there is a way to check to make sure that the FI sytem I am installing will be getting all necessary power where it is needed before I install the system and the engine. For example, if the double relay and the fuel pump are getting power can I assume that any FI problems are isolated to the FI system itself and not something between the battery/ignition switch and engine compartment? I'm just trying to minimize any problems that I may have when I finally try and start the engine and make it easier to figure out any problems. It's kind of a confusing question to type out, but hopefully someone will understand what I'm asking. Thanks in advance.
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- 1977 CEI Sunroof Bus 2.0L F.I. Hydraulic Lifters
- 1973 Thing

"It’s so easy to laugh, it’s so easy to hate, it takes strength to be gentle and kind."

[Wildthings]

If the plug going to the double relay is there and has all the proper inputs then it should be close to a plug and play. Even if all the wiring was removed you would only need to hook up four wires to get the FI system to work.

[oscarsnapkin]

From what I can tell in the wiring diagram, double relay terminal 88z is fed directly from the battery. Is that what the little wire that comes off of the positive battery cable is for? I've search through a bunch of threads dealing with the battery cable and haven't been able to find the answer.
_________________
- 1977 CEI Sunroof Bus 2.0L F.I. Hydraulic Lifters
- 1973 Thing

"It’s so easy to laugh, it’s so easy to hate, it takes strength to be gentle and kind."

[Wasted youth]

I'm pretty much a noob when it comes to troubleshooting the FI system, but I'll give it a shot. My 1977 F.I. system was unmolested, and so was the other wiring, so I got lucky there when I refreshed my pulled engine and compartment. But I think I understand the question.

You will need to ensure the wiring from battery to ignition switch and back to the starter is clean, correct and properly marked and all terminals tightly crimped and clamped. Replace any connectors that even remotely suggest looseness or corrosion. You will need a high quality crimping tool so to get the tightest, least resistance crimp.

The transmission ground strap must be removed, thoroughly cleaned and reinstalled. Also, I used DowCorning dialectric grease on all exposed connections.

All of the spade terminals on your wiring harness must be carefully inspected and cleaned. This includes the large connection to the control module. I selectively used a nylon brush and a toothbrush. Dialectric grease was lightly applied to these connections as well.

While the engine is dropped and readily accessible, follow the Bentley Fuel Injection component troubleshooting section for all components that you can do this to. Once my engine was installed, I finished all the tests and checks. It is really not that difficult with the engine in there. If I recall correctly, several of those tests require the harness, module, battery and ignition switch circuit to be complete (read: installed).

It sounds like you will need to be thorough with your ignition/start circuit.

And, mine did not have a separate wire to feed the double relay. That is fed by two block terminals that plug into the bottom of the relay and are fed via the control module.

As Wildthings said, it's really a plug-and-play idea once the fundamentals are met.