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cellerdoor
Samba Member
Joined: July 10, 2012
Posts: 403
Location: Fairfax Virginia
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 Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 4:53 pm Post subject: |
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| blemon wrote: |
UPDATE:
Good news: they have a guy who cuts hoses so we'll save a lot there.
Bad news: something electrical is wrong. The back fans don't work (and they had to jump start the original compressor). Perhaps the ok news about this is that my husband can do electrical work in the house.
Would love some feedback on two things:
1. links to parts to buy. Found a couple on the earlier thread. We can save by buying the parts and bringing them to him.
2. any ideas on the electrical? front fans are working fine.
We will take out the cabinets ourselves and keep them here while it's in the shop. We decided this is one thing we might not DIY the whole thing. |
If I'm reading this correctly you need to buy a new receiver/dryer, expansion valve and compressor and your repair shop is making new hoses. Questions back:
1. Are they reusing the old a/c hose fittings or providing new? Id recommend new fittings if you can swing the $100. Don't have the hoses/fittings made up until you know what your compressor connections look like since it may change your fittings at the compressor.
2. Nostalgic Air has reasonable compressors, dryers and I think expansion valves. Might be able to get all three at one place. Likely the Sanden 709 is the right compressor for your year. How do the hoses connect to the compressor? Directly into the back?
3. Might as well change your belts at this time if it hasn't been done recently. GoWesty has a nice package.
Curious about jumping the compressor. I assume your shop knows that a lack of charge will trip the low pressure switch on the system and it wont come on unless you jump it. Are you sure the compressor is bad? This also might relate to the fan not coming on but I have no knowledge here.
Where in WV? I found my van near Wheeling.
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blemon
Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2014
Posts: 106
Location: WV
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| Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 7:24 pm Post subject: |
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| cellerdoor wrote: |
2. Nostalgic Air has reasonable compressors, dryers and I think expansion valves. Might be able to get all three at one place. Likely the Sanden 709 is the right compressor for your year. How do the hoses connect to the compressor? Directly into the back?
3. Might as well change your belts at this time if it hasn't been done recently. GoWesty has a nice package.
Curious about jumping the compressor. I assume your shop knows that a lack of charge will trip the low pressure switch on the system and it wont come on unless you jump it. Are you sure the compressor is bad? This also might relate to the fan not coming on but I have no knowledge here.
Where in WV? I found my van near Wheeling. |
Thanks for this.
We'll have to actually look at the compressor to see how the hoses connect. My husband was down there today and he can't picture it right now. We'll look at the 709 first to compare.
Compressor: it came on with the jump and then made crazy loud grinding sounds. The dude said, "it don't look good. it's real noisy." He's been working on these things for a long time. His shop has been there since I was a kid. I will take his word for it.
After reading some of the other posts, I bet the electrical issue with the back fans is just a fuse since the front fans work. But every time we say "just" this or "just" that, we get an unpleasant reality check.
We are in Morgantown. Actually found the van on the Samba and flew up to get it. Aside from the AC and an exhaust leak that shouldn't be too bad (fingers crossed), it's in great shape.
Love Wheeling. Such a gorgeous old town. |
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blemon
Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2014
Posts: 106
Location: WV
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| Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 1:10 pm Post subject: |
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OK, we replaced the fuses shown in the photos. Compressor comes on (still sounds awful). Back fans still don't work so we're not sure if the evap works.
Any suggestions for figuring this out?
Nothing happened in the area where the evap and back fans are. |
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blemon
Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2014
Posts: 106
Location: WV
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| Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 1:04 pm Post subject: |
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| Still researching and working on this bit by bit. |
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blemon
Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2014
Posts: 106
Location: WV
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| Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 6:24 pm Post subject: |
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| Can someone post a photo of the fuse SO 50A and evap fan relay? |
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Steve M.
Samba Member
Joined: July 30, 2013
Posts: 6833
Location: Fort Lauderdale, Fl.
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| Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 9:05 pm Post subject: |
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...
Last edited by Steve M. on Sat Apr 26, 2014 9:10 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Howesight
Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2008
Posts: 3274
Location: Vancouver, B.C.
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| Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 9:07 pm Post subject: |
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Here is a pic. You can see the references to this at pp 87.4 to 87.5 in your Bentley manual. The wiring diagram is at pp 97.140 and 97.141.
There are 3 relays in the pics below. The centre one is the relay for the evap fans.
The metal strip just below the centre relay is the 50 amp So fuse. The connections at the So fuse sometimes melt the plastic adjacent to the screws that hold the fuse in place. Check that.
To get power to the evap fans, a lot of things have to occur:
1. AC switch on and turned to max cool;
2. Fuse S12 must be good (15 amps)
3. AC relay has power and is functional;
4. Evaporator switch properly connected and switched on;
5. Evap fan fuse S51 (20 amp) not blown;
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vramsaran
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2010
Posts: 43
Location: Deltona, Florida
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| Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 6:27 pm Post subject: 50 Amp fuse. |
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I have a problem with my 1990 vw ac system. That metal strip 50 amp fuse is melted along with some of the plastic that holds the scews. I used a modern day 50 amp and some alligator clips to see what would happen. Started to get really hot for some reason.
Could there be a short somewhere ? If so where should I start looking if you could guide me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance. |
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JudoJeff
Samba Member
Joined: May 24, 2013
Posts: 1179
Location: Near Springfield, MA
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| Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 6:58 am Post subject: |
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It takes a lot to melt that fuse, so, yes, you have a short.
You'll just have to start tracing out the electrical system for the A/C system, there's no short cuts that I know of. You'll need the Bentley to do that.
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1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout) |
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MarkWard
Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2005
Posts: 17155
Location: Retired South Florida
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| Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 7:37 am Post subject: |
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50 amps is a huge load. I would expect some warmth even under normal conditions. Best to get an amp meter with the range to measure 50 plus amps and see what exactly it is drawing. A direct short would take that fuse out very quickly.
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JudoJeff
Samba Member
Joined: May 24, 2013
Posts: 1179
Location: Near Springfield, MA
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| Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 6:28 am Post subject: Answers your question |
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This new post will help you find the answer:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=321941&highlight=
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1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
1999 Ford GTRV Westfalia camper (30% bigger Westy layout) |
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Howesight
Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2008
Posts: 3274
Location: Vancouver, B.C.
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| Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 3:58 pm Post subject: Re: 50 Amp fuse. |
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| vramsaran wrote: |
I have a problem with my 1990 vw ac system. That metal strip 50 amp fuse is melted along with some of the plastic that holds the scews. I used a modern day 50 amp and some alligator clips to see what would happen. Started to get really hot for some reason.
Could there be a short somewhere ? If so where should I start looking if you could guide me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance. |
The two evaporator fan motors, like the front heater fan motor, do get sticky over time as the oil dries out of the oil-impregnated bronze bushings and crud accumulates in those bearings and elsewhere. At the same time, the grounds start to acquire resistance. All of this adds up to turning the whole circuit into a giant resistor that overheats.
Doubling up the wire from the alternator to the 50 amp fusible link is an excellent cure for half the problem. The other half of the cure requires you to remove the evaporator fans and free up and lubricate them or simply replace them.
Those fan motors do have a huge draw if they are stuck. I doubt that you have a short.
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