1915 Turbo Dell DRLA 40 Issues...

[s13_marine]

Also, as for the smoke, is it possible I'm running too thin of oil? My buddy recommended 15w50, so that's what went in with the oil change. I don't know what was in there fro the previous owner.

[hooker]

If this thing ran fine when you first got it I would think the way it was set up was just fine. Something happened from that point on to make it do what it is doing. YUP! Need to re-thunk this a bit..
_________________
2007 NHRA Division 6 Finals Champion air cooled Rabbit P/U rear engine compact/import class, 13.32 sec 1/4 Woodburn, Oregon
Pauter Big Block VW 2610 cc turbo mid engine roadster 9.69 sec @ 147 mph 1/4 PIR Oregon





I spent most my money on women and VW race cars. The rest I wasted.

[s13_marine]

[Lionhart94010]

Most often it’s fuel or timing, I would get the timing set correctly first(ask an ACVW a samba turbo owner, like Eaallred or miniman82 for some timing/Turbo advice), also check that you do not have too much end play, that can affect timing and drive you nuts…

To check thread depth, you could use a piece of wire, bend the end into and L pull the plug and put the wire in the plug hole, catch the bottom of the combustion chamber and put your finger at the top of the spark plug hole threads, standard plugs are 1/2” so it should be close, also 3/4” depth thread plugs do not have as big a recess cut, about one nickel deep vs about 3-4 nickels deep…

On the right is a standard T1 Head plug hole, half inch of threads vs three quarter of an inch on an OEM type casting T1 head from Scat..

The change in altitude from Pheonix 1,117 ft above sea level, Yuma elevation is 137 - 200 feet above sea level could have an effect on the jetting of a NA engine, not sure if it would have the same effect on a turbo setup…

I think that turbos may need a bit different plug as they have more Air and Fuel blown in on them(I’m not a turbo guy so just a WAG), perhaps search the samba for proper plugs for a Turbo’d T1 engine…

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/NGK-B6HS-Spark-Plug-14-x-1-2-Reach-Threads-p/ng7534.htm

NGK B6HS Spark Plug, 14 x 1/2" Reach Threads, Conventional Tip, 11/16" Socket is a regular tip spark plug, suitable for 1/2" Reach VW engines. Regular tips are less expensive and give piston clearance that can be a problem with projected tips.

This plug is the correct heat range for Bus, Type 3, and Hot Street Type 1s and 3s, being one step colder than the stock heat range. This is equivalent to a Bosch "7"
The B6HS has 14mm threads, and is 1/2" reach (short).

Heat Range: Stock Heat Range is a "5". "6" is used in busses and Type 3s. "7"s are a really "Hot Street" plug, and "8"s and "9"s are almost exclusively Turbo Use.


Re: “I just don't know what the heck changed!!!!! I fixed some wiring and lighting on it, tightened down some couplings and then it ran like crap!”

Did you add new gas? PO have race gas in it?
Loose clamps could have been delaying boost? Now too much boost early on in RPM range?
Dirt clogged filter in gas tank due to ride on trailer?
Battery now week, charging system idiot light not working?
Owner switched parts between test drive and you getting it (happened to me once)
etc...
_________________
Current VWs 71 T2 Westy SO-72/6(Miami), 71 Crew Cab, 2015 GSW TDI
Other owned VW’s 59, 68 1500s, 69 & 71 Bug’s; 72 & 73 S-Bug’s; 67 Westy, 67 Deluxe, Other 71 DC, 72 KG GT that now lives in Australia, 12 JSW TDI, 2015 GSW TDI, 2023 Tiguan
VW technical information sights
thesamba - www.ratwell.com - www.shoptalkforums.com/ - www.vw-resource.com - http://www.type2.com/
http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.com/ - www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles.htm

[hooker]

In all my years of drag racing and using Dellorto carbs (30 years) and running at altitudes from sea level to 5,000 ft I didn't even bother changing jets because it really didn't make much difference. Using a turbo when you go to the lower altitude (higher barometric pressure) gives you more boost the same as getting more hp at lower elevation with a N/A engine.
A turbo engine will not make boost usually unless it is under load.
_________________
2007 NHRA Division 6 Finals Champion air cooled Rabbit P/U rear engine compact/import class, 13.32 sec 1/4 Woodburn, Oregon
Pauter Big Block VW 2610 cc turbo mid engine roadster 9.69 sec @ 147 mph 1/4 PIR Oregon





I spent most my money on women and VW race cars. The rest I wasted.

[s13_marine]

I got the car running again. Checked the coil, plug wires, regapped the plugs, adjusted valves. Car starts up with a few less pumps of the pedal, but still seems like a lot. Smoke is gone, oil was overfilled... not sure how i missed it.

[s13_marine]

Okay, so I triple checked the fuel pressure, coil, spark... etc. I have a question about the fuel pressure regulator thats currently on the car. Right now it's a turbo regulator... meaning it's boost sensitive and it increases pressure with boost. Shouldn't it just be a straight 2.5-3psi supply to the carb, and the jets do the rest? I'm thinking the extra pressure may be forcing fuel into the bowl?

[hooker]

My turbo was a pull thru so it may be a little different but it had a 40 mm DHLA side draft dellorto on it.. First I had a holley pump that put out 12 lbs. that went to a holley regulator that had 7 lbs output that went to another holley regulator that was set for 3 lbs. That regulator was set up as the boost sensitive regulator and when under boost would allow the full 7 lbs of fuel pressure to the carb. I was also boosting to 15 lbs on my sand rail so it needed some 104 octane as well. Could boost to 12 lbs with 91 octane non alcohol gas. This was on my 2276 cc engine that started with 9 to 1 CR. Put out about 250 hp with 15 lbs of boost. Lotta fun
With a blow thru carb the whole carb is pressurized. I don't think the jets change size to make more fuel for boost. That comes from fuel pressure. If you have too large of a needle valve you may have too much pressure and it keeps the needle valve open. I wouldn't think you would need more than a 2.00 or maybe a 2.50 inlet valve for your boost of about 8 lbs. Those may even be too big.
_________________
2007 NHRA Division 6 Finals Champion air cooled Rabbit P/U rear engine compact/import class, 13.32 sec 1/4 Woodburn, Oregon
Pauter Big Block VW 2610 cc turbo mid engine roadster 9.69 sec @ 147 mph 1/4 PIR Oregon





I spent most my money on women and VW race cars. The rest I wasted.

[s13_marine]

Okay, sounds like it's setup right then. Just wanted to make sure as the boost comes on it's not pushing too much fuel. I went one size up again on the idle jets, and the off idle bog improved. I ordered a few different sizes for idle and main jets to see if it's getting better or worse with more fuel.

I'm about to just get a wide-band 02 sensor and gauge so i can be sure of what the A/F ratios are at different throttle and loads. I think this is probably the only way I'm going to get it to where I'm happy with it.

Also, the fuel pressure gauge bounces lie it's on a spring between 2-4psi, it's not just a steady pressure. Is this normal?

[rs58rag]

Fuel pressure gauge reading should not bounce around like that.

[hooker]

[s13_marine]

[hooker]

[hooker]

[s13_marine]

the pump is the basic electric rotary

[s13_marine]

Alright... SO I have resolved my issues!!!!!

The car was still running lean despite going up to a 155 main jet. I was ABOUT to drill the original 120 that was in there, when i happened to notice that the hole in the "120" jet was WAY bigger than the hole in a 145 that was on the bench next to it.... turns out, the previous owner or shop had them drilled out! I had started swapping out jets for what thought were larger ones when I rebuilt the carb, and actually decreased the size dramtically. SO, I put the original jets in there.

I took the car out sunday moring and the car drove BEAUTIFULLY! Amazing throttle response and crisp power all the way to 6500rpms.

However, after about 35-40 minutes of running, the throttle response went way down, and then the engine died completely.

After a nice 6 mile hike back to the truck, and about an hour of fighting with it to get her back on the trailer, I tore into it back at the house. I found the carb was not getting fuel. I pulled apart the connection at the carb to see if the filter was clogged with something, and barely any fuel came out. I disconnected all the lines and there were no blockages. I left the line open at the end, and turned on the pump... barley any fuel flowed out. I also checked the tank to see if I had free flow from it and that it wasn't clogged. I think the pump may have been failing intermittantly the WHOLE TIME and finnaly took a shit on me. So, got a new one on order and will be in today.

[modok]

Glad you have it figured out! I did have a pretty good guess eh?

[s13_marine]

[s13_marine]

Thanks again for all of the help!!!!

-Semper Fi