How to install torsion bars

brooksinc1976 · Posted: Mon May 12, 2014 3:24 pm Post subject: How to install torsion bars

I am building a sand rail. just robbed the torsion bars off a chassis. How do I install them correctly. My frame does not have any reference points. What position do I need my swing plate as I am installing them. My torsion tube has adjustable brackets also.

Thx
A serious novice haha

race-desert · Posted: Mon May 12, 2014 4:19 pm Post subject:

for starters hopefully you marked at least one bar per what side they were on in old car...

Vanapplebomb · Posted: Mon May 12, 2014 4:46 pm Post subject:

If they are stock bars, they should have come marked, stamped on the spring plate ends with an L or R.
_________________
1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021

Dale M. · Posted: Mon May 12, 2014 5:06 pm Post subject:

One installs the bar(s) per correct side (L or R) markings and uses a angle finder to set initial angle... Think standard beetle is 17° with chassis flat to ground ("0" on angle finder) ...

The bars have different number of splines on each end and by rotating bars in inner splines and trailing arms on outer splices you can set a very small amount of preload change to adapt suspension to get proper height ...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

From the book "Baja Bugs & Buggies" by Jeff Hibbard.

A lot of information on how to setup suspension on site, one just need to research some...

Dale
_________________
“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

brooksinc1976 · Posted: Mon May 12, 2014 6:56 pm Post subject:

Well like a dumbbutt I did not mark them but I did follow the rust and mirror it for the mock up. I didn't put the bushing in to make the mock up easier. Here are the pics of where I be.

So if I'm understanding y'all right, level the chassis then use an angle finder to match up the sides. And go form there.

I have to fab up some shock mounts and I guess while I'm at it make some bump stops. That said from y'all's "wisdom" how should I go about it and what should I not do/watch our for.

Thx again,
Wana be builder...

Dale M. · Posted: Tue May 13, 2014 7:20 pm Post subject:

When you mock it up in sorta critical with having a good down angle on spring plates.... But with center adjuster and ability to reindex at splines you should not have much of a problem increasing or decreasing preload when time comes to trail test it...

Dale
_________________
“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

brooksinc1976 · Posted: Tue May 13, 2014 7:50 pm Post subject:

Cool thx. Forgive the bad terminology but the torsion tube that is on the frame will not allow for the stock bushings. The previous owner gave me poly ones he said he machined them to fit. Is there anything I need to watch out for with wear. Also is there anything to watch out for using the stock plate to "cap" the torsion bar on the tube. On the stock tube there is a cutout that allows for travel however I will have to put a bushing or washers I between it and the tube. - hope that makes since sorry no pics

ORANGECRUSHer · Posted: Thu May 15, 2014 5:44 am Post subject:

I imagine with those adjusters it doesn't matter much where you insert the center splines although if you're going for a stiffer ride or more ride height than usual you can install the centers then slide the "SPRING" plate halfway onto the outsides of the bar and wrap a ratchet strap around the end(spring plate) and to a fixed point above and crank the spring plate clockwise until you can smack it the rest of the way onto the splines with a hammer.
Not sure if you even have a "perch" or "rest" where the spring plate sits on top of when the suspension is at full droop. For off road you want it to sit there when the car is at rest. How hard it pushes (how much you index it-explained above) is dictated by the weight it's holding up and the stiffness of the ride you prefer. Contrary to my comment about offroad setting, it's not a bad idea to set it so when you let the rear end bear it's full weight, there is a couple inches of travel upwards or preload.

You will most likely end up changing this after you finish your build and can drive the buggy so just try to get them balanced with each other for now. Then when you fine tune down the road you can replicate adjustments to both sides evenly.
_________________
Brian H.
I may not know everything,but I will try to help if I can
OrangeCrushER Berrien Warrior 2.4L Quad4
LAZY MARY 1970 Baja ~~1835cc~~

Jcr. Kat · Posted: Thu May 15, 2014 8:09 am Post subject:

You also need to add more support to the torsion adjusters maybe triangulate so that the adjusters do twist or rip right out .there is alot force on those fingers .

ORANGECRUSHer · Posted: Thu May 15, 2014 10:09 am Post subject:

I disagree. triangulate the triangle? I think that's why it has such a long arm on it already. It's designed to be used this way. I guess if this is going to be a competition car then maybe there might be a worry, but what are you going to triangulate off from unless you tie it into some beam in the floor ahead?
_________________
Brian H.
I may not know everything,but I will try to help if I can
OrangeCrushER Berrien Warrior 2.4L Quad4
LAZY MARY 1970 Baja ~~1835cc~~

Jcr. Kat · Posted: Thu May 15, 2014 1:01 pm Post subject:

Im glad you disagree because it show how much you don't know. You need to another tube across the chassis or tubes back to the torsion housing there is alot of force on the adjusters whether your racing or not leaving it like that it going rip itself out in a matter of time.I've seen enough times.

ORANGECRUSHer · Posted: Thu May 15, 2014 2:30 pm Post subject:

You're right I didn't know
But now I do! Cool

_________________
Brian H.
I may not know everything,but I will try to help if I can
OrangeCrushER Berrien Warrior 2.4L Quad4
LAZY MARY 1970 Baja ~~1835cc~~

brooksinc1976 · Posted: Thu May 15, 2014 2:35 pm Post subject:

Do we need a group hug.

jsturtlebuggy · Posted: Thu May 15, 2014 2:39 pm Post subject:

I agree with you Kat, the adjuster does need support at the front. I found out the hard way back in 1977 with my new Funco SSII and the then fairly new center torsion adjuster. It did not break out, but bent the torsion housing Gil had made for the race chassis. It require straightening the housing and reinforcing it to keep it from happening again.
Like you and I have seen, I even had one break out on me driving someone else's Baja Bug that was not supported.

As for the bushing/grommet you need for the torsion housing to spring plate you need to measure the ID of torsion housing and OD of spring plates you are going to use.
There are several sizes available, 2 1/4"OD-1 7/8" ID, 2 1/4"OD-1 3/4" ID, 2"OD-1 3/4"ID and just a flange grommet that does not go inside torsion housing,1 7/8" ID by .187" thick.
There may be different sizes too now as I going by and old book.
One other thing the jamb nuts for the adjusters go on the outside, You want as much adjustment you can get with the fingers.
_________________
Joseph
Fair Oaks/Orangevale, CA
Elrod Motorsports
Motion Tire Motorsports
Having fun with Dune Buggies since 1970
Into Volkswagens since 1960


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