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Inline Conversion, Digifant II, no fuel, injectors not fire
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ebennett
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 7:30 pm    Post subject: Inline Conversion, Digifant II, no fuel, injectors not fire Reply with quote

I did a motor swap in a Vanagon, I have an inline 4 cylinder with Digifant II injection/computer. If I spray starter fluid in the intake it fires right up but won't stay running. Once the starter fluid runs out the van stops, it appears it isn't getting fuel.

1) My fuel pump works and pumps while I am cranking, so does the idle stabilizer. Fuel pump primes the system if I turn the key to the on position and the idle stabilizer buzzes.
2) My injectors test about 16.7 ohms each and 4.7 ohms with the harness
3) vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator is hooked up
4) I have tested the line pressure, I'm getting 29-36psi

The fuel pump pulls direct from the bottom of the gas tank; gas tank-> primary fuel filter->fuel pump->secondary fuel filter->injector assembly->vacuum operated pressure regulator->return to gas tank

Am I missing something? I tested the resistance across the injector wire harness, 4.7 ohms - correct

I know wired the system correct, I used my bentley and everything checks out, J17 fuel pump and J176 computer are the only relays that I needed. I swapped the ignition module and distributor for kicks, nothing. I am using a ABA distributor as my bottom end is a 2.0L ABA

I also bolted the ECU to the fire wall of the Vanagon, the way I bolted it made a direct ground between the ECU cooling fins and the body of the car, could that have screwed things up?

Can a bad mass air flow sensor cause the injectors to do nothing?

Bentley suggests using a test LED to test the ECU if it is sending a signal to the injectors at the plug that goes into the harness, I used a volt meter, it danced all around when I turned the key, it appears to be working.

Lost here.........
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ChesterKV
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Conversion Dude,

Perhaps you have the FUEL FROM GAS TANK and FUEL RETURN TO TANK accidentally crisscrossed. It's a bit common actually.


- Chester
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Captain Pike
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure the pump stays on during the starting and running conditions. Hot wire the pump to eliminate the relay question.
I just fixed a 914(everything Shocked ),now on a 98 volvo s70 engine swap(f.ed belt)Maybe thurs or fri if you need help. PM me.
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ebennett
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 3:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know I have the fuel hoses on correct, fuel in directly to the rail, fuel return to tank is the bottom of the regulator.

I already hot wired the pump, oxygen sensor and hot side of the injectors, they all share the same relay on this digifant II set up.

I think I might have nuked the injector driver on the computer.......I bolted the ECU to the body of the van, metal screws touching the cooling fins and the body of the van.....grounded. In the Jetta there are plastic tabs between the body and the carrier that holds the ECU and ignition module. maybe the direct grounding of the ECU and a less than perfect ground between the block and the body and the thing got nuked.

I am going to try and find a running Jetta or Golf with digifant II and see if it will start on my ECU.

Check out this link, sounds like my issue


http://www.carelect.demon.co.uk/vwp1.html

I used the factory ground between the trans and the body and I made several grounds between the cylinder valve cover/intake manifold and the fire wall of the van, maybe it wasn't good enough. I am going to try and source another ECU and hook up a ground direct between one of the starter bolts and the body.
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ebennett
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 6:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We it looks like I've nuked another ECU! I found another Digifant II ecu, I hooked it up and was careful not to ground the body of the unit or the ignition module. Turned the key, it fire for a second, then nothing, now the injectors are dumping gas! The opposite extreme mentioned here.

http://www.carelect.demon.co.uk/vwp1.html

I should have added a ground strap directly to my starter?

Hopefully third computer is a charm.

Hey Bill want to buy my van dirt cheap? All new brakes, shocks, slotted rotors, side canopy. I'm leaving town this weekend (not in my vanagon as planned) and might not be back for 3 months to 3 years
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kayakwesty
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

is your harness clean?

Sounds like you have a wire going to ground or a true short and your harness is bad and eating ECU'S

ECU's are tough you shouldn't be going thru them.

How did you make your harness, did you cut alot of wires?

My grounds, I have the ECU factory mount from the donor car mounted to the body supporting the ECU just as VW did

I have my factory ground wire mounted onthe valve cover and a ground strap from there to the body...

that's it
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the temp sensor and wiring to/from it. (I'm guessing digifant uses one).

Although not directly related, the Jetta Motronic engine management relies heavily on info from the temp sensor.

Also check that you have the various components connected to the correct grounds.

On the Motronic engine management, there are specific grounding points for the various components.

i.e. my Motronic ABA, would start cold, run poorly, but not restart. (ran REALLY rich. Like fuel was getting dumped in) Problem: ECT (engine coolant temp sensor) and TPS weren't grounded. I grounded them. It ran way better, but I still got fault codes for the ECT TPS and CMP. I connected each item to it's correct ground. This cured the TPS and ECT fault codes though I still have a CMP fault. (I'm hoping it's just dizzy position!)

Does Bentley specify which ground is used for the various different digifant engine management components? i.e. "sensor ground". "Ground to engine block" etc.

And for sure. I thought the Jetta ECU should be grounded. But, and IIRC, even though there are 2 screws holding the metal end of ECU to the mounting bracket, I'm pretty sure the Jetta Motronic ECU gets it's ground via wires to/from ECU. This may be the same for the Digifant ECU.

Hope that helps!

Neil.
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ebennett
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My install is pretty clean, A2 Bentley manual, section 15, current flow diagrams page 205, main electrical of 91-92 Jetta, German production.

The only wires I cut are from plug T6c, for some reason my T6c plug only has 5 wires, I don't have connection T6c/6-W/R - emissions I believe?

T6c/1-R/W - comes from fused side of J17 fuel pump relay connection 87. to 02 sensor
T6c/2-R/Y -> to J17 fuel pump relay connection 85
T6c/3-R/G -> to the connection 50, starter solenoid
T6c/4-BK/Y -> to J176 ECU relay connection 87
T6c/5-R/BK -> to J17 fuel pump relay connection 87, same as 02 sensor and fuel pump but connects before the fuse


T6c/6-W/R -> I don't have this wire

I also don't know what T2m/2-G goes to?
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ebennett wrote:
My install is pretty clean, A2 Bentley manual, section 15, current flow diagrams page 205, main electrical of 91-92 Jetta, German production.

The only wires I cut are from plug T6c, for some reason my T6c plug only has 5 wires, I don't have connection T6c/6-W/R - emissions I believe?

T6c/1-
T6c/2-R/Y -> to J17 fuel pump relay connection 85
T6c/3-R/G -> to the connection 50, starter solenoid
T6c/4-BK/Y -> to J176 ECU relay connection 87
T6c/5-R/BK -> to J17 fuel pump relay connection 87, same as 02 sensor and fuel pump but connects before the fuse

T6c/6-W/R -> I don't have this wire

I also don't know what T2m/2-G goes to?


Too bad I don't have an A2 Bentley. I'm a newb, and by no means an expert, but could provide a "second look".

So there is no coolant/engine temp sensor?

Sounds like you've got a good handle on the electrical.

From what I've learned, there are subtle electrical differences within model years. I guess this depends, in part, on what market the VW was made for. i.e. the Jetta I harvested parts from (in Canada) was one of the early 93' ABA's that didn't c/w the MIL light wire. In California they did, but not around here. Rolling Eyes

Neil.
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Captain Pike
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Park it here, I'll fix it.
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ebennett
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 6:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vanagon Nut wrote:


Too bad I don't have an A2 Bentley. I'm a newb, and by no means an expert, but could provide a "second look".

So there is no coolant/engine temp sensor?

Sounds like you've got a good handle on the electrical.

From what I've learned, there are subtle electrical differences within model years. I guess this depends, in part, on what market the VW was made for. i.e. the Jetta I harvested parts from (in Canada) was one of the early 93' ABA's that didn't c/w the MIL light wire. In California they did, but not around here. Rolling Eyes

Neil.


There is a coolant temp sensor, one that wires into the stock Vanagon wiring to give you a coolant temp on the dash and a second for the ECU to tell it to adjust fuel richness. The ECU temp sensor did not require cutting wires, the list above are the wires that I had to wire up to relays. These are the relays that you need to install;

J17 Fuel Pump Relay
(30) ->positive side of battery(+)
(85) ->T6c/2-R/Y ECU
(86) ->Ignition Switch/Coil (15)
(87) ->20amp fuse->T6c/1-R/W (Oxygen sensor) & R/Y (Fuel Pump)
(87)->no fuse ->T6c/5-R/B (Injector Harness)

J176 ECU Relay
(30) ->positive side of battery(+)
(85) ->31 internal ground (I put it right to the chassis)
(86) ->Ignition Switch/Coil (15)
(87) ->T6c/4-B/Y (delivers power to the ECU when ignition (15) is on)


So follow these simple steps and you to can blow up the injector driver's on your ECU Laughing


Bill, I'd love to have you fix it, but as a VW spit thing I have to do it. I'm parking the van at my buddies garage and leaving Saturday in a Chevy Astro van to drive to Portland. Crying or Very sad
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 7:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ebennett wrote:

There is a coolant temp sensor, one that wires into the stock Vanagon wiring to give you a coolant temp on the dash and a second for the ECU to tell it to adjust fuel richness. The ECU temp sensor did not require cutting wires, the list above are the wires that I had to wire up to relays. These are the relays that you need to install;

J17 Fuel Pump Relay
(30) ->positive side of battery(+)
(85) ->T6c/2-R/Y ECU
(86) ->Ignition Switch/Coil (15)
(87) ->20amp fuse->T6c/1-R/W (Oxygen sensor) & R/Y (Fuel Pump)
(87)->no fuse ->T6c/5-R/B (Injector Harness)

J176 ECU Relay
(30) ->positive side of battery(+)
(85) ->31 internal ground (I put it right to the chassis)
(86) ->Ignition Switch/Coil (15)
(87) ->T6c/4-B/Y (delivers power to the ECU when ignition (15) is on)




Are you certain there is power getting to the relays?

(I get the impression this is a "new" Vanagon to you?)

Is the ignition switch working properly?

Are you certain the "internal ground" on J176 is just that? I found that on my Motronic relays, some had an internal connection from 30 to the + side of the relay coil. Negative is supplied from ECU.

Are you using the correct relays? (i.e. maybe you're using one with a positive internal connection to relay coil?)

I hope I'm not leading you astray with my limited Motronic knowledge! Smile

It sure sounds like either the ECU is hinky, or there is a ground missing.

Is there a table in Bentley showing where to check ECU for + and grounds?

Neil.
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ebennett
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1)Are you certain there is power getting to the relays?

Yes, relays are working the way they are supposed to, fuel pump runs, idle stabilizer buzzes, spark plugs spark, I've checked all that

2)(I get the impression this is a "new" Vanagon to you?)

I have owned it for 2 years, "new" in the sense that I performed my own inline conversion

3)Is the ignition switch working properly?

Part of confirming that the relays worked was confirming that the ignition switch supply power to (30) in the "on" position and (30) and (50) in the "crank" position

4) Are you certain the "internal ground" on J176 is just that? I found that on my Motronic relays, some had an internal connection from 30 to the + side of the relay coil. Negative is supplied from ECU.

Interesting thought but on page 205 of the current flow diagram it shows separate connections.

5)Are you using the correct relays? (i.e. maybe you're using one with a positive internal connection to relay coil?)

Relay diagrams on the side of the relays shows no positive internal connection and relay testing showed nothing "crossing over"


Thank you for your help, I am putting this to rest for now and maybe return to it when I return to the area or just try and sell it as is. Selling it would suck because there is no way I can sell this unfinished project for what I have into it. Van needs an exhaust down pipe made and the new ball joints and tie rods I bought installed it she is good to go (unless there are other problems) I did everything, resealed the gas tank, stainless steel brake lines, slotted rotors (race car!!) all new KYB shocks.....

Like a bad hand in poker you just have to put it down.
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Last edited by ebennett on Wed Jun 25, 2008 7:50 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ebennett wrote:

Thank you for your help, I am putting this to rest for now and maybe return to it when I return to the area or just try and sell it as is. Selling it would suck because there is no way I can sell this unfinished project for what I have into it. Van needs an exhaust down pipe made and the new ball joints and tie rods I bought installed it she is good to go (unless there are other problems) I did everything, resealed the gas tank, stainless steel brake lines, slotted rotors (race car!!) all new KYB shocks.....

Like a bad hand in poker you just have to put it down.


You're welcome, and I "hear" ya.

I'm sure you're more experienced, but since I'm a conversion newb, at one point I found the best thing I could do, was leave it alone for a while. In my case it was only a couple of days, but it made a world of difference.

Best of luck with your decisions.

Neil.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To all my Dig2 brothers. CIS injection works like a charm.
NO BRAIN______NO PAIN Very Happy
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mrjoshm
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fuel pump pulls direct from the bottom of the gas tank; gas tank-> primary fuel filter->fuel pump->secondary fuel filter->injector assembly->vacuum operated pressure regulator->return to gas tank

i am not sure if maybe you are using an aftermarket fuel pump but stock digifant II cars have 2 fuel pumps. an internal pump in the tank which primes the external fuel box where the main pump is located..
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 4:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
am not sure if maybe you are using an aftermarket fuel pump but stock digifant II cars have 2 fuel pumps. an internal pump in the tank which primes the external fuel box where the main pump is located..


true but that doesn't apply, the ABA in a Vanagon uses the factory fuel pump, that came with the van, then to the Jetta pressure regulator, then to the Jetta fuel rail, that's it.
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1984 Westy 2.0 Jetta ABA Motor/1.8 head converted to auto tranny, with 180,000 on body, 55K on engine and transmission

B.5.5 Passat Wagen with 30v V6-67000 Miles

DAS AUTO

CHANGE YOUR FUEL LINES!

A post without pictures is useless

http://www.kayakwesty.com

http://www.waldensridgewhitewater.com/
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 6:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kayakwesty wrote:
Quote:
am not sure if maybe you are using an aftermarket fuel pump but stock digifant II cars have 2 fuel pumps. an internal pump in the tank which primes the external fuel box where the main pump is located..


true but that doesn't apply, the ABA in a Vanagon uses the factory fuel pump, that came with the van, then to the Jetta pressure regulator, then to the Jetta fuel rail, that's it.

Bingo
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ebennett
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

6 years later I realized I never concluded this post.

I needed to build a custom distributor to get the Mk3 distributor to work with the Mk2 digifant fuel injection. 4 window vs single window for the hall sensor. Once I had that figured out the van fired right up.
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