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Square73
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2008
Posts: 246
Location: Ohio
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 Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 5:26 am Post subject: |
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Still trying to find out how narrow you can go. There won't be a body to get in the way, I don't care if it will roll over easily, I just want to know how far one can be narrowed.
Thanks
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There's not a pill you can take. There's not a class you can go to. Stupid is fo-evah. Ron White |
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mark tucker
Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2009
Posts: 23937
Location: SHALIMAR ,FLORIDA
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| Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 12:28 pm Post subject: |
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| probably till the spindles hit each other. if it is light you may only need 1 set of springs. you can use a through bar or the spring and leave out the ajuster grub screw so the ajuster can rotate.(the springs tie the arms togeather and hold the on.)good luck |
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gimpy60
Samba Member
Joined: May 09, 2007
Posts: 668
Location: Just down the road
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| Posted: Fri Jan 21, 2011 8:21 am Post subject: |
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when you guys morph a beam with through rods (I ain't) what holds the lateral thrust on them? do you drill & use the grub screws or what? there is no thrust bearings in there, so what gives?
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How the hell ya spost ta fix it, ya don't even know how it works boy |
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Fordman49
Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2011
Posts: 209
Location: Indiana
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| Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 10:42 am Post subject: |
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Quick question...
I am getting an axle narrowed and adjusters installed for my '72. Without drop spindles is 4" narrowed too much? I will be getting drop spindles when money allows, but at the same time I would rather get the axle done now rather than have it worked on twice....
Advice is greatly appreciated!!! |
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510DUB
Samba Member
Joined: January 02, 2013
Posts: 1
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 3:25 pm Post subject: front beam problems |
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Not sure if i am posting in the right spot. Have used this site to help me with alot i have done to my 1970 model bug. I am having a few troubles with the front being really stiff. I have welded in adjusters and shortened the front 4 inches, But when i put the adjusters in i gave them an extra 10mm of turn so i could go even lower. But now i am sure that this must be just binding them up, There for making the front really stiff. I have also jacked it up and loosened the adjusters of, than lowered onto jack stands so both top and bottom are not fighting each other and tightened them back up. Still did not help. I also am running 2.5inch drop spindles. so i am looking at just getting another beam and starting again.
Also having trouble with getting a good turning circle. have not removed the steering arm damper which is restricting turn. but i am running stock wheels and tyres. The tyres are hitting the inside wheel tubs anyway. if i go to another 4 inch beam, and remove steering arm damper with a lower profile tyre. will i have full turn without rubbing anywhere. i am only looking at having the front sill 80 mm of the ground if that. |
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Derek Cobb
Annoying
Joined: March 11, 2004
Posts: 2565
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| Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 5:43 pm Post subject: |
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Shorter springs naturally have a higher spring rate. Your ball joints could very well be binding as well, but with drop spindles I doubt they are.
Stock torsion bearings might be better than urethane bushings if you're running those.
if it is simply too much spring rate, that opens up a whole 'nuther can of worms |
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zodlaw
Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2005
Posts: 507
Location: Battle Ground, Wa.
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ashman40
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007
Posts: 15982
Location: North Florida, USA
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| Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2014 6:31 pm Post subject: Re: holes with small plastic plugs in beam |
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| zodlaw wrote: |
So I got all the brackets cut off. There are 4 holes under the mounts with plugs in them I have looked and look with no answer.
Do I just fill those or leave them? |
Post some pics.
Could they be the zerk grease fitting holes? Those should be towards the outer ends as they are meant to fill grease into the space between the inner/outer bushing/bearing. They should not be anywhere near the brackets.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road  }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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zodlaw
Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2005
Posts: 507
Location: Battle Ground, Wa.
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zodlaw
Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2005
Posts: 507
Location: Battle Ground, Wa.
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SBD
Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2012
Posts: 3269
Location: SOUTH DAKOTA
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| Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 8:19 am Post subject: |
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| They might have been some kind of locating holes for jigging the parts during the manufacturing process. Just a guess. |
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Joey
Samba Member
Joined: August 12, 2005
Posts: 5366
Location: Nova Scotia - Canada
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| Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 12:16 pm Post subject: |
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Am I missing something here... why did you remove the mounts and move them over? I don't see where the beam has been cut in the middle to narrow it... 
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Joey
‘60 Kombi - '74 Bus - '79 Panel - '65 Beetle |
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zodlaw
Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2005
Posts: 507
Location: Battle Ground, Wa.
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Jayuyano
Samba Member
Joined: March 09, 2007
Posts: 14
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| Posted: Sun Jul 12, 2015 8:03 am Post subject: |
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Quick question bout a beam I got from a friend that was cut 6 inches put it on my 69 bug but the steering is way off turns completely on the passenger side but on the drivers side it doesn't turn all the way it drags the tire and the steering is stiff.
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Jerkhalter
Samba Member
Joined: May 10, 2015
Posts: 94
Location: Queen Creek, Arizona
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| Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 8:22 pm Post subject: Adjuster Degree |
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| What degree are you guys welding adjusters in. Looking for lowered bug look |
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db69
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2013
Posts: 419
Location: east TN
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| Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 2:13 am Post subject: |
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| Does anyone have a complete list of parts required for a 4" narrow and adjuster install? Ex: adjusters, bearings , bushings etc. |
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ashman40
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007
Posts: 15982
Location: North Florida, USA
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| Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 7:00 am Post subject: |
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| db69 wrote: |
| Does anyone have a complete list of parts required for a 4" narrow and adjuster install? Ex: adjusters, bearings , bushings etc. |
What are you starting with?
If your existing beam is trash, then you will need a complete front beam? If you have a well equipped shop you may only need to buy the pair of adjusters (top & bottom). You will need the tools to cut the beam and move the mounts. You also need to buy the narrowed top/bottom leaf springs or mod the existing ones. Again, what are you starting with and what facilities do you have?
The bearings and bushings are already in the beam and unless they are worn out you shouldn't need new ones.
Have you looked at the pictorial walk-thru at the beginning of this thread (Page 1)?
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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db69
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2013
Posts: 419
Location: east TN
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| Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 7:32 am Post subject: |
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| I have all necessary tools the beam is still on car. I understand worn parts will need to be replaced but let's just say everything I have is good (yeah right)what else must or should be purchased? I know I will need adjusters and grease seals. I have a 69 beetle with 2.5" drop spindle disc brakes and would like to have the tires tucked under fenders and a little lower. Will I need lowered shocks or stock height? Anything else ? You know there is always unforeseen costs that come with these simple cheap projects surely it isn't as cheap and simple as this thread says come on guys I know someone has a list of parts they had to buy after someone else said "all you need is adjusters" |
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ashman40
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007
Posts: 15982
Location: North Florida, USA
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| Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 8:20 am Post subject: |
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The grease seals are a good example of something you might be able to re-use, but probably a good idea to replace while you have the arms off. The same could apply to the tie rod ends and ball joints. If the boots for these are cracked or long gone, you should consider at least replacing the boots if not replacing the complete joints. But this is not part of the beam narrowing, just something you may want to replace/refresh while you have the front beam apart.
Do you also want to pick up some black paint to coat the beam? Some don't do anything to the welds and leave them raw. If it were me, I'd clean and paint the beam and torsion arms while I had them out.
Since you already have 2.5" dropped spindles (which do not need shorter shocks) you may only need to lower the front another inch or so. That probably doesn't require new shocks. If you were dropping it another 2" you might need shorter (Opel) shocks. Again, this will depend on your plans and at what point the tires start to rub the fenders.
When you are done post pics here so we can see.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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db69
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2013
Posts: 419
Location: east TN
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| Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 8:25 am Post subject: |
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| Thanks! I will probably add this to my winter to do list. I will post pics when it's complete. |
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