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7T3Thing
Samba Member
Joined: March 30, 2014
Posts: 28
Location: Upstate New York
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 Posted: Tue May 27, 2014 6:00 am Post subject: Brake Line Routing - 73 Thing |
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Almost as expected, I broke a hardline changing the MC in my sons Thing. Of course, the worst one.
Anyone have experience replacing the front to rear line in a Thing not stripped to the floorboards?
I am open to all tips, tricks and techniques. Maybe connect the new one to the old and pull it thru?
Buying a hardline kit where all the lines are straight.
Thanks in advance,
Dave
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Working with my son on his 1973 Thing |
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citroen
Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2010
Posts: 1578
Location: louisville ky
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| Posted: Tue May 27, 2014 6:23 am Post subject: |
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its really not that hard just take the drivers seat out pull the old line out it will be stuck to the tunnel the connection in the back is a little hard to get to but not that bad just a little bending take you time and you can get to everything her is is the connection in the back
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JayC
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Joined: July 07, 2010
Posts: 292
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Tue May 27, 2014 8:34 am Post subject: |
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Ok, it is much easier to do with the body off 
The one thing i would watch out for is to make sure you get the bend that goes around the pedals correct. If you don't, the line will get pinched by the clutch pedal (ask me how I know).
jay |
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7T3Thing
Samba Member
Joined: March 30, 2014
Posts: 28
Location: Upstate New York
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| Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 1:48 pm Post subject: |
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I seem to have run into a small issue.
The rear cross-over line is seemingly trapped between the body, the frame and the rubber isolator (names might be incorrect):
I guess I can cut the ends off and put the new one in front (rear) of it.
I loosened everything on the pass side and tried to extract by trying to pull towards the rear, but the line only began to bend.
Any thoughts on sliding it out in one piece easily? I guess I can cut one end and pull.
Thanks,
Dave
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citroen
Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2010
Posts: 1578
Location: louisville ky
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| Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2014 9:34 pm Post subject: |
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| Why are you taking off the crossover line ? Just use a brake line wrench and remove the brake line going to the front on the drivers side at the tee and pull the line out. |
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7T3Thing
Samba Member
Joined: March 30, 2014
Posts: 28
Location: Upstate New York
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| Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 5:25 am Post subject: |
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I'm replacing all the lines as a few broke when replacing the MC.
I'm going to replace everything and switch to silicone fluid.
I will try to pull, but I'm thinking it might be wedged in tight.
Dave
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7T3Thing
Samba Member
Joined: March 30, 2014
Posts: 28
Location: Upstate New York
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| Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 6:04 pm Post subject: |
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it was the little bendy tab holding it on!
on an unrelated note, why doesn't anyone sell pre-bent lines for VW? Trying to get that center line correct is straight up impossible on a complete Thing. Body off, no issue, I'm sure.
Plus the line seems a little long, too.
Now I'm just ranting...
Dave
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Captain Spalding
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2005
Posts: 2519
Location: . . . in denial.
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| Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 7:59 pm Post subject: |
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| 7T3Thing wrote: |
| Now I'm just ranting... |
Given the nature of what you're doing, I think that's healthy.  |
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kubelmann
Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2003
Posts: 3266
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| Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 10:28 pm Post subject: |
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| Only the tenacious have “the right stuff” to get the job done. Rant on. We are here for you. I just got my rototiller running after being stumped for a year over a self-created issue. When i rebuild the starter assembly i used bolts that we 1/16” too long and a few had a jagged end that just barely touched the tips of the cooling fins on the flywheel. This contact made a auto-destruct sort of noise any time the engine was turned. So I ground down the tips and problem solved.. Not without a few rants on the way... Good job on the brake line tenacity to get er done. We are with you, |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
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| Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 4:45 am Post subject: |
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| 7T3Thing wrote: |
I'm replacing all the lines as a few broke when replacing the MC.
I'm going to replace everything and switch to silicone fluid.
I will try to pull, but I'm thinking it might be wedged in tight.
Dave |
Do some more reading on silicone fluid. My understanding is that it doesn't absorb water and thus water settles out in the low spots causing rust problems. DOT 3 & 4 fluids seem to work well if changed every couple of years to remove the moisture the fluid picks up and holds. |
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kubelmann
Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2003
Posts: 3266
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| Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 5:29 am Post subject: |
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The fluids issue has been talked to death over the years. But if you want the best for an air cooled VW there is a long standing favorite for performance asn longevity...:
ArE Super Blue for brakes
and
Swepco for oils |
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