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59 dove blue camper build, Camper guys: Input appreciated!
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zackcowie
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PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2014 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CaLiBus wrote:
Love how that Nose turned out! Good job!


Thanks! It's actually not done yet but I do have a lot of hours into the nose. There was a skim coat of
Bondo but there was og paint under that as well
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NoBudgetVWGarage
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PostPosted: Fri May 30, 2014 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dancing Almost ready to do burnouts Wink
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zackcowie
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Got 2 different types of windows to try out. Liking the safari style better, but for now, I'm just gonna rock what I've got, thanks Bajaman, she's almost ready!
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fluxcap
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I'm partial to the safari style myself!

If you need any seals or rebuild parts for those windows, you can get everything you need here.
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/

seals for the glass
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Hehr_Standard_Glass_Seal_p/itm-195.htm

frame to body seal
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Hehr_Standard_Backframe_Gasket_p/vts-199.htm

visors, cranks, screws etc...
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Window_Hardware_s/27.htm

I rebuilt mine with hardware from here and they turned out pretty good.
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CaLiBus
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And to get you back on track with the paint stripping you should try this stuff. Works great.
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durfeec
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Strip that wheel and post it in the classifieds. Its a crows foot PGSG wheel. Don't see them come up very much with good og paint.
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CaLiBus
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

durfeec wrote:
Strip that wheel and post it in the classifieds. Its a crows foot PGSG wheel. Don't see them come up very much with good og paint.


Slow down there partner..picture of Wheel is just for input . But did have a BIG smile when it came to paint stripping day! Shocked
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zackcowie
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CaLiBus wrote:
And to get you back on track with the paint stripping you should try this stuff. Works great.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Where did you pick that brand up at I would love to try it. So far I've had good luck with easy off or just 1500 grit sandpaper to take off the last few layers. I'm open to try any stripping agent tho! Wink
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zackcowie
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fluxcap wrote:
Yeah, I'm partial to the safari style myself!

If you need any seals or rebuild parts for those windows, you can get everything you need here.
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/

seals for the glass
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Hehr_Standard_Glass_Seal_p/itm-195.htm

frame to body seal
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Hehr_Standard_Backframe_Gasket_p/vts-199.htm

visors, cranks, screws etc...
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Window_Hardware_s/27.htm

I rebuilt mine with hardware from here and they turned out pretty good.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thanks! I will be using all that info, I was unaware they remade almost everything!
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CaLiBus
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Home depot. Gel or spray can. Gel is way more easier to control areas to strip. Do about about 12" square to get the hang of it. Wait about 15mn depending on the type of overspray paint was used. On very thin covered areas just wait a few minutes then wipe off with a scratch guard pad then buff out at the end.
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zackcowie
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok I'm definately going to try that, I have been using a blade held at a 45 degree angle and sort of squeegee inch the paint off and luckily it work on every layer except for the last primer over the dove blue. But leavening it on too long is scary because I lost some paint in one spot from that. I will definately try that and post my results, thanks for the advice!
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CaLiBus
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 9:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

zackcowie wrote:
Ok I'm definately going to try that, I have been using a blade held at a 45 degree angle and sort of squeegee inch the paint off and luckily it work on every layer except for the last primer over the dove blue. But leavening it on too long is scary because I lost some paint in one spot from that. I will definately try that and post my results, thanks for the advice!


Yes stick with the razor blade method still for the thick layers. Wet rags... Good luck!
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cru62 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've used a regular putty knife instead of a razor blade with great results. Plastic "razor" blades also work pretty good. I have used regular razor blades also, held in a handle made specially for blades. I found that the CitriStrip softened the OG paint just enough so that If I wasn't careful it would gouge the paint. I noticed that the more I used the razor blade, the less likely I was to gouge. So, I dulled the blades by cutting some cardboard first to take the edge off, so to speak.
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zackcowie
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 8:28 pm    Post subject: Some updates on my bus Reply with quote

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Full set of 15" bus rims on my bus now!
So I also replaced the starter with an auto stick starter, got the engine going, drove her around the block and to my friends house. Now I need to mess around with the brakes some more. Replaces the hard lines and master but the brakes are still crappy so I the actual brakes and the while front end are next.

Another issue I'm having is getting into reverse. I have yet to find reverse. I have never had this problem before, though this is my first crash box trans. Any one have any tips or ways to trouble shoot?

Thanks, zac
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RPGreg2600
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 10:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are never synchros on reverse, so it should shift to reverse exactly the same as a synchro trans. That said, I coulda sworn a 59 had a synchro trans?
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zackcowie
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well it is a model year 59 built in Oct 1958, not sure if that makes a difference.
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KombiMadness
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 11:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Zac,
Great job so far. Well done, mate.

Engaging reverse gear is the same for all old VW's including crash box, so you may have an issue anywhere from the adjustable shift plate position, the L bracket below that, the bush that goes inside the L bracket hole (if applicable to your year bus) the 2 shift rod bushes, the shift rod connectors, the nose cone and of course, finally the gearbox itself......
I would work backwards and start with the easy stuff - unbolt the shift plate slightly and see if a slight adjustment helps find reverse. If no difference, have a good look at the L bracket (early buses don't have a plastic bush but do have a metal M spring). Unfortunately, if those 2 things aren't the problem, it gets harder because the front shift rod connector is probably seized on to the front and rear shift rods and the 2 screws also. Then to remove the long shift rod you have to remove the engine, it only comes out rearwards.......
Anyway, try the simple stuff first. I just went through this process myself. Very Happy
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KombiMadness
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 11:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

zackcowie wrote:
Well it is a model year 59 built in Oct 1958, not sure if that makes a difference.


OK, my bus is also an October 1958 built '59 model.....
So yes, definitely no synchro 1st gear split case tranny. This is not a 'crash box' though; a crash box has no synchro in any of the gears and requires a double de clutch shifting technique...... You won't have a plastic bush around the front shift rod where it passes through the L bracket hole but should have a metal M spring - this may be broken or missing and could be your problem. Unfortunately, the Metal M spring is not reproed but my mechanic used a OG beetle bush and beetle L bracket to fix this area.

This is assuming you have the stock set up, of course.
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zackcowie
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I replaced it with the bushing style plate and sleeve. before with the original I could not get any of the gears. now I have all gears nice and easy except reverse. I will try all of those things, hopefully it is something simple! since your bus is so close in manufacturing date to mine I was wondering which Tail lights I Should have? I believe the change happened in 58 from single to double filament. But I also noticed the holes to mount them are different? one is a circle with a chanel on top and bottom, and the other style has the hole for the tail light and two screw holes to mount it. My tail light area has been hacked for bigger tail lights and I want to bring it back to stock. which would it have had?
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KombiMadness
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 3:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

zackcowie wrote:
So I replaced it with the bushing style plate and sleeve. before with the original I could not get any of the gears. now I have all gears nice and easy except reverse. I will try all of those things, hopefully it is something simple! since your bus is so close in manufacturing date to mine I was wondering which Tail lights I Should have? I believe the change happened in 58 from single to double filament. But I also noticed the holes to mount them are different? one is a circle with a chanel on top and bottom, and the other style has the hole for the tail light and two screw holes to mount it. My tail light area has been hacked for bigger tail lights and I want to bring it back to stock. which would it have had?



First of all, ours are the high tail light position. That is, the tail lights were placed higher than late 59 model buses (they were also slightly closer in to the engine lid I think, but I don't have my Bentley with me at the moment). If yours has been hacked, make sure you measure the correct 'higher' position for the tail lights. My tail lights are repros and are double filament but I'm not sure if that's correct. The mounting holes are without the channel, the ones with just the screw holes.



Here's a photo with tail light positioning with installed tail lights turned on....


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.




And here's one with tail lights out, showing hole with screw hole above and below.... I hope that helps. If you have the Bentley for our year bus, it gives the exact tail light hole positioning for the 'high' tail light.


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