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Erik G
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dunno, I've always used the dipstick test, as do others I know.

If I can hold it, it's too cold
If I can't hold it at all, it's too hot
If I can pass it between my hands without burning them, it's just right. I too have a digital thermometer and it agrees with that.

BTW, Porsche engineers in 1958 stated 280 degrees was sustainable without doing serious damage, lubrication to be sufficiant to 320, and maximum horespower at 175-195 degrees. I know, Porsche is not VW, but this was the 356 we're talking about. I'd say it's wear limits are tighter...

I say if you hit 250, slow down and let it cool a bit.
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Pacmanfever
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Erik G wrote:
I dunno, I've always used the dipstick test, as do others I know.


Just to clarify, you're holding it by the looped handle end? I've got a dash temp gauge installed by the PO along with his cooling mods and the dip stick has never gotten too hot to hold by the handle on ours.

Of course curiosity got the better of me and I tried to hold the submerged end, it was pretty damn hot!
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marklaken
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use the the dipstick test as my only engine temp check (I run full flow 1776 with oil filter). Too hot to hold is a vague term - I take that to mean the dipstick doesn't burn your flesh - my dipstick can get really hot and painful to hold, but never to the point where it leaves burn marks on my fingers.
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wcfvw69 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last time I checked my engine temp with an accurate dip stick thermometer, it was 215-220 degrees. I HAD TO use a rag to pull it out (by the handle) to avoid burning myself. I don't think I have sensitive hands either.

I just don't know how people can comfortably pull the dip stick with their fingers (even if the engine is running 180 degrees oil temp) w/out it causing some pain.

Maybe they are running stand off engine lids or a 4 panel vert lid which allows air to blow on the handle some??
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iamdonquixote
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wcfvw69 wrote:

A 120 main is a beat small for a 1600 in that Brosal carb. I think a 125 main would be about right for that set up in your bus.


I agree, i'd try that and even a 130. Plugs can give _some_ indication. Next time you pull the engine check that the oil cooler seals are installed correctly and nuts torqued to correct spec ( most of the time they are over torqued ). Some people report switching to 10-30 from a thicker oil helps.
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williamM
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IamDon has a good point- I've broken down more than a few blocks where the oil cooler seals were "squished" to the point the oil would have a hard time getting thru.- and the kicker is the high pressure would open the by-pass and none of it would go thru the cooler?? d'oh! d'oh!
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orangebug60guy
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I've been driving it around all week. Reset the small idle screw again...checked the timing and turned it down a tad. Its hot but not like crazy hot like you guys said. I can pick it up and pass it between my hands. I threw a small spats of water on the tin, no boiling or anything like that. I'll keep you up dated as to the situation this weekend. I plan on doing some more miles and highway time to see what is going on.
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j.pickens
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pacmanfever wrote:
I have the Harbor Fright version of that infrared thermometer, but if you're measuring various areas you'll find a lot of variance. I have yet to measure the Bus motor with it, I guess it's time to use it for something besides making the puppy chase the laser!

As for the dip stick test, are we talking about the handle, or the end of the stick that is submerged in oil itself? The submerged end seems unlikely because oil at operating temp is 190° and I can't imagine a dipstick design that wouldn't allow removal by the handle with the motor at operating temperature, which is it?

I aim the thermometer at the inside corner area of the case below the oil pressure switch.
Being careful not to hit the tin below it, as that often picks up heat from the exhaust.
My buses run around 190F on a nice day, up to 210 if its over 90 out, and I've been out on the interstate pulling hills.

When we caravan'd to CTS, my bus was 195, Greg and Clara's was 185, and the third bus was 245. We all concentrated on getting the third bus temperature down as a result.
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