Engine bolt questions for 1974 Super 1600cc

[wuwei75]

hi all,

I decided to replace my muffler and manifold this last week and when I finally got it all apart I noticed that all of my engine compartment seals are shot. Completely torn, rotted, etc. In the process of researching I've seen that it's much easier to remove the engine to replace the firewall and other seals.

Well, I started looking at my engine mounts and a couple items stuck out.

1. There is no bolt on the drivers side top of the engine.
2. The bolt for the passenger side top looks like it's not correct. I noticed this because the bolt was spinning freely, which I assumed wasn't good. I tried to remove the bolt only to find that the nut on the front is 17mm but the backside of the bolt is an odd shape. See pic:

So my questions are pretty obvious:

1. Is it really necessary to remove the engine to replace the firewall and other seals?
2. I've read that the driver's side upper engine bolt isn't essential. (seems odd but ok). Do I need it and what size is it?
3. Is the bolt I found on the passenger side upper engine mount correct and if not what is the correct size/kind of bolt? If it's correct, what in the world do I use to hold the bolt end to tighten it?
4. Is there anything else I should do maintenance-wise while I'm this far in?

Thanks as always,

Brett
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1974 Super Beetle (Jill)

1972 Fastback (Maude)

[Glenn]

[Her74buggy]

The bolt in your picture is for the passenger side top (assuming left hand drive)
It is like that due to the starter. The flat spot is what keeps it from turning when you tighten the other end.
Unfortunately it is common to not replace the top drivers side bolt but I assume the designers put it there for a reason so I picked up a stainless bolt and nut at Ace Hardware for a buck or two and put one in. Can't remember the size but i am sure it is listed on a schematic somewhere or someone will chime in with it. I took another bolt to compare. Easy piece of mind.
Removing the engine is easy and will allow you to do the seal and firewall.
What else to do? If it is on the stand do whatever you can since it will all be accessible. I just did exhaust, cleaning, rear seal, new clutch, valve adjustment, rebuilt carb, intake boots, new fuel lines, etc because it was out and easy. Depends on what yours needs but most engine work is easier on the stand so take advantage of it being out and do what it needs.

Edit - we were typing at the same time. Never mind my post.....just read what Glenn said

[wuwei75]

hi there,

I appreciate the reply. Of course I found some info on the d bolt after I posted. However, in my particular situation I don't see how the d design keeps it from spinning. When I split the d bolt into the left side all the way against the starter it just spins freely regardless the direction I turn it. Am I missing something?

Thanks,

Brett
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1974 Super Beetle (Jill)

1972 Fastback (Maude)

[Northof49]

If you remove the driver's side rear wheel it is a lot easier to get at the missing bolt. It is located just inboard of where the external clutch lever arm connects to the clutch cable. There may well be a nutsert already in the engine case, so all you have to do is thread in the bolt from the bell housing side. A short extension on a ratchet does wonders with a regular length socket.
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1958 Karmann Ghia owner

[Her74buggy]

I jus checked mine and when I get it seated right it stays tight. I can't get a picture from the other side though to show you.
If it was spinning how did you loosen the nut and get it out?

[wuwei75]

[wuwei75]

[Northof49]

[wuwei75]

[wuwei75]

For some reason even when I push it all the way as far back toward the engine (flush against starter), it still spins freely. perhaps I'm missing something on the starter or bell housing?

[Tim Donahoe]

The "D" bolt at the starter is shoved through the upper starter flange with the flat side of the "D" resting against the body of the starter. It cannot turn once engaged in this manner.

However, when you try to install that bolt's nut, the bolt wants to back out on you. There are two methods to keep this from happening.

The first, go to ACE Hardware and get some plumber's putty. It comes in a small tub. Clean the bolt and area where the bolt will meet the starter flange. Get a bit of putty and make a snake--like when you were a kid, playing with Play-doh. The snake should be about 1/4 inch thick and about an inch long. Wrap the snake around the inside edge of the "D" in the bolt and squish it on well. Stick the bolt in the starter flange hole and squish it home. You may have to push it home with a screwdriver.

Now the bolt is temporarily stuck in position.

Now go around to the engine compartment and gently start the nut on the protruding starter-bolt head. Finger it down as tight as you can. Then finish it off with your wrench--only 22 lbs., if I remember correctly.

The putty will have squished out and it will fall into oblivion.

The second method? Some people simply duct tape the bolt at the back side of the "D". I have never tried this and it seems like it's a bit too tight in there to get the tape onto the "D" head.

Remove the duct tape after tightening the nut.

Get the top driver-side bolt, too. It's no big deal to install it, using two extensions, stuck together; a socket/rachet, and a flashlight to see the hole.

Tim

[Cusser]

3rd method: get a kid to help for that step.

Actually, I've always been able to shove that D-head bold rearward into position, then carefully get the nut started in the engine compartment. After the nut catches, I pull the nut towards the rear as I tighten, to keep the D head in position. Once it's tight enough that it stays "caught", then I can use my 17mm socket or 17mm box wrench; next time I will try my 17mm "gear" wrench there, to see if it has enough room...
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[Tim Donahoe]

Well, trying to set that nut on the "D" bolt--for me, at least--without the plumber's-putty trick is like playing a game of Wack-A-Mole. But the score is ass-backwards ....

Tim

[gjetson]

Plumbers putty? Really? Somehow I don't think the
guys on the assembly line used plumbers putty.
Do as Cusser suggested and you will have no problems.

[Relyt]

Image from Asiab3

Here you can see the "D" is supposed to wedge against a piece on the starter. If yours no longer has a place to wedge it against I would suggest replacing it with a normal head bolt and getting help tightening it down.

What I did to hold it in place is to put a piece of electrical tape around the shaft right next to the head, it's able to wedge it into the hole enough to let me start tightening it.
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69 Beetle - Daily driver
1600 SP (unknown history)
30 PICT 1 w/power circuit (Volkzbitz)
205T (Bill)

[Glenn]

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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

עַם יִשְׂרָאֵל חַי

[Tim Donahoe]

Plumber's Putty is cheaper

And that guy who built the VW in Germany didn't need plumber's putty because he was not alone. So, until I can rent a neighbor's kid to come over and stick his finger on the back side of that "D" bolt, I will keep making my little snakes ... and smiling at how well the trick works when there's no one else around to help me.

The only time I got any help from my girls was when I needed someone to pump the brake pedal after I put in a new master cylinder.

Tim

[Dwayne1m]

I used duct tape to hold the bolt. Worked fine for me. Just have to be gentle when you start the nut, and as you are turning the nut pull the bolt towards the fan housing to keep it locked into place on the starter.

[EvileNV]

I just rest a small sledgehammer on top of the transmission and it holds the bolt in place, just don't forget to grab that hammer when you're done!
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69 Beetle, 64 GMC 1000 (1/2 ton), 59 Ford Ranch Wagon (for the wife and kiddos), 92 Motorhome for vacationing.