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willieb
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 1:46 pm    Post subject: distributor pops out Reply with quote

I have a 1600 dp stock engine with a 009 dizzy.
for some reason the dist. works it's way out of it's home even when clamped tight. I had a clamp that was thinner that all the ones I looked at that worked but with the normal stock clamp it won't stay in place? The thin one got bent and won't work any more. any ideas thanx louis
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a good used stock "original" VW clamp.

The cheap aftermarket ones are soft and twist.
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willieb
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanx Glen, I have a couple "real ones" I'll give them a try. I seems that the distributor could sit a bit deeper into the dist. drive shaft though.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The top of the shaft should be 45mm below the surface of the case. If it's lower than you need to maybe add a shim. It could be wearing into the case and be a problem.
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tasb
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Typically the problem starts from over tightening the bolt on the clamp. They only need 30 in pds
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Last edited by tasb on Sun Jul 06, 2014 11:39 pm; edited 1 time in total
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gears
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 11:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

More like 7-8 lbs, I would think.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 3:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

gears wrote:
More like 7-8 lbs, I would think.

7 ft-lbs.... that's barely more than hand tight.

Same as you do for the oil strainer studs.
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willieb
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I checked the depth to the top of the dist drive shaft and it is 48mm, It says the thickness for the washer should be 0.60 mm for the one washer needed for a single carb engine, well short of the 3mm difference between 45mm and 48mm.?

Reading further in Bentley I see that some rebuilt exchange engines have the drive shaft bore is machined out and the lower shim washer replaced by a 3mm spacer.
This engine has several thousand miles on it and this hasn't been a problem until now!
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can install the distributor so the dog doesn't drop down into the slot in the drive and then see how high the body is sitting above the block, you need to take into consideration the thickness of the clamp if it is not installed. This will show you how deep into the slot the dog should fit with everything aligned properly.

On my Canadian rebuilt WBXer I added several shims under the drive to get the engagement where I wanted it and to cut down on the timing scatter I was getting.
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willieb
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there potential for a problem where the distributor drive pinion engages the distributor drive gear being to low or to high?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

willieb wrote:
Is there potential for a problem where the distributor drive pinion engages the distributor drive gear being to low or to high?


That is what several of the above posts are about.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not bus. But sometimes #24 breaks falls out and creates up and down play in the distributor shaft.
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willieb
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 6:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The initial problem wildthings was , the distributor popping up out of the hole but I guess it stands to reason if the dist. Is not in the right place there is bound to be a problem.

Last edited by willieb on Tue Jul 08, 2014 7:01 am; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 7:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The aftermarket clamps are made from a softer metal and then to move. The driveshaft under the distributor has a helical gear which is pushed up when the engine is turning. At higher rpm it can put pressure on the distributor causing it to rise. The clamp needs to hold it down.

I've only used stock OEM clamps and never had a problem. And trust me, I run much higher RPMs than you do in a Bus.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Along the lines of what Wildthings was saying, I eventually began trimming my distributor bodies to sit deeper. I'd leave only minimal clearance, and found I could eliminate the spring with no apparent ill effects. I'm sure I'll be told why I can't do this, but I did ..
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willieb
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn, The problem I have is that the distributor wouldn't quite reach the dist. drive shaft so I had to use an aftermarket clamp because it was thinner, the original ones are thicker making the even further away.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I eventually began trimming my distributor bodies to sit deeper
Wilson suggest shimming up the drive gear to take up the play. The play can account for timing fluctuations. Although I have done it in the past. I never liked the idea of having more than one washer under the drive gear. To remedy the risk of the second washer ending up in the case you can braze the washers together.
I like your idea of cutting the dist. body.
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gears
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like two shims just because it probably minimizes case wear .. just as multiple flywheel shims probably minimizes bearing flange wear.

I HATE installing all this stuff after-the-fact, so my distributors are always installed before the case halves go together. Proper up & down clearance is confirmed, and you can even use bluing to make certain the gear mesh pattern is centered.
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