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aeromech
Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 16971
Location: San Diego, California
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 Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 1:41 pm Post subject: |
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Looks to me like they are there
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sodbuster
Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2004
Posts: 1086
Location: wherever my baywindow takes me.
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| Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 1:46 pm Post subject: |
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Ah yes so they are I could not make them out there in the dark. Whew! I stand corrected. And in this case it's a good thing!  |
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aeromech
Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 16971
Location: San Diego, California
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| Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 1:47 pm Post subject: |
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I've forgotten them in the past. I hate it when that happens.
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Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
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blackivory69
Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2013
Posts: 309
Location: California
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| Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 6:34 pm Post subject: |
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Yes. Those 2 tins between cylinders are already there. Those are just my extra. Sorry for the confusion. 
But I'm still missing the ones that busdaddy showed me, the one by the cylinder. This one https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1084818.jpg
It's look like it can easily be made. But my question is, can it easily be installed also? How important is this tin?
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1970 Double Cab. Stock engine (1600 SP)
1973 Thing (Mexican Safari)
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blackivory69
Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2013
Posts: 309
Location: California
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| Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 6:44 pm Post subject: |
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| Desertbusman wrote: |
| blackivory69 Do you still have any unanswered questions about your tins, trans, or pump? |
Well, actually nobody really answer my question about this Hoover Bit that I made. I know it's not the real McCoy. And can easily buy. I know it's not gonna win in a Beauty contest either but all I care is, WILL it work? Or will it bite me my rear later?
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1973 Thing (Mexican Safari)
1970 Karmann Ghia Convertible
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Desertbusman
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Joined: June 03, 2005
Posts: 14655
Location: Arizona
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| Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 8:06 pm Post subject: |
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No, it won't do. Just trash it. Already discussed why.
| Desertbusman wrote: |
Hoover Bit- Here is a good pick of a stock one installed. Thanks Karl. Yours looks like it seals the gap reasonably however it does not have the means to solidly bolt the fan shroud to. And you need that bolt mounting. The shroud is a three point mounting. At each side end and in front at the cooler mount. It won't be stable without it.
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ALSO-
And don't run your engine until you get these taken care of-
| curtis4085 wrote: |
| #5 goes where pictures. I front of #4 cylinder. |
| Desertbusman wrote: |
| There is a L and R tin "5" that goes under the rear underside lip of your cylinder tins. It directs air around the rear surface of #2 and #4 cylinder barrels. |
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blackivory69
Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2013
Posts: 309
Location: California
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| Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 8:57 pm Post subject: |
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| Desertbusman wrote: |
No, it won't do. Just trash it. Already discussed why.
| Desertbusman wrote: |
Hoover Bit- Here is a good pick of a stock one installed. Thanks Karl. Yours looks like it seals the gap reasonably however it does not have the means to solidly bolt the fan shroud to. And you need that bolt mounting. The shroud is a three point mounting. At each side end and in front at the cooler mount. It won't be stable without it.
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ALSO-
And don't run your engine until you get these taken care of-
| curtis4085 wrote: |
| #5 goes where pictures. I front of #4 cylinder. |
| Desertbusman wrote: |
| There is a L and R tin "5" that goes under the rear underside lip of your cylinder tins. It directs air around the rear surface of #2 and #4 cylinder barrels. |
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Cool. Thanks Desertbusman. That's what I want to know. The RED LINE really helps. Lucky for me there's a big VW show/swap meet tomorrow in Orange County. So I'll be there tomorrow hunting those parts. I'm guessing I need to take off the shroud just to install the Hoover Bit, right?
I'm buying another OG Doghouse also for this motor. In case this will not do the job, I'll swap it. 
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1970 Double Cab. Stock engine (1600 SP)
1973 Thing (Mexican Safari)
1970 Karmann Ghia Convertible
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airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12728
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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aeromech
Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 16971
Location: San Diego, California
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 7:45 am Post subject: |
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I've said many times that I learn something here every day and today is no exception. I have seen those air deflectors on heads before but many many times I've seen heads without them. I never knew they were needed until now. Thanks
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Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
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airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 8:33 am Post subject: |
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| aeromech wrote: |
| I've said many times that I learn something here every day and today is no exception. I have seen those air deflectors on heads before but many many times I've seen heads without them. I never knew they were needed until now. Thanks |
From what I understand, they prevent cooling air from reaching in between the intake valves, where it is essentially not needed. This creates a dam forcing the air around the exhaust valves and ports where it is needed most. When people refuse to run a thermostat I encourage them to run two left side pieces, that way there's no slot leaking air. Every little bit counts.
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Desertbusman
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Joined: June 03, 2005
Posts: 14655
Location: Arizona
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 1:08 pm Post subject: |
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| asiab3 wrote: |
| When people refuse to run a thermostat I encourage them to run two left side pieces, that way there's no slot leaking air. |
So please elaborate on why that is involved with thermostats.
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airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12728
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 2:16 pm Post subject: |
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| Desertbusman wrote: |
| asiab3 wrote: |
| When people refuse to run a thermostat I encourage them to run two left side pieces, that way there's no slot leaking air. |
So please elaborate on why that is involved with thermostats. |
The left piece is solid metal, the right piece has a slot for the thermostat control rod. It's a small way for cooling air to escape, and I'm of the opinion that every little bit counts. 
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Desertbusman
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Joined: June 03, 2005
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Location: Arizona
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 2:23 pm Post subject: |
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Good point
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51156
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 4:06 pm Post subject: |
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| asiab3 wrote: |
| Desertbusman wrote: |
| asiab3 wrote: |
| When people refuse to run a thermostat I encourage them to run two left side pieces, that way there's no slot leaking air. |
So please elaborate on why that is involved with thermostats. |
The left piece is solid metal, the right piece has a slot for the thermostat control rod. It's a small way for cooling air to escape, and I'm of the opinion that every little bit counts. |
Not on any factory head, both left and right have the slot for the thermostat as heads are ambidextrous, the only dedicated LH head I can think of is late FI Beetle and they still have a slot in the baffle. No doubt it's to reduce the parts count and simplify manufacturing and parts stocks but what if that slot is cunningly designed to allow just the right amount of air by to cool that area of the head yet still send most to other areas?, it's not easy trying to outsmart those engineers and sometimes you don't realize a simple thing like a slot does more than one job. I've deleted the slot on LH ones when making missing ones but now that I think about it maybe that's not such a good idea?
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Desertbusman
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Location: Arizona
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 4:48 pm Post subject: |
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All of the heads I have and have used have the slotted baffle. No way am I going to monkey with them although had thought about it once. All you need is to mess up and have a loose one fall out.
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airschooled
Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012
Posts: 12728
Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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| Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 12:28 pm Post subject: |
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Revisiting this topic, since it was helpful and thorough....
| blackivory69 wrote: |
| WILL it work? Or will it bite me my rear later? [img] |
[quote="Desertbusman"]No, it won't do. Just trash it. Already discussed why.
| Desertbusman wrote: |
Hoover Bit- Here is a good pick of a stock one installed. Thanks Karl. Yours looks like it seals the gap reasonably however it does not have the means to solidly bolt the fan shroud to. And you need that bolt mounting. The shroud is a three point mounting. At each side end and in front at the cooler mount. It won't be stable without it.
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I recently read this, and realized last weekend that my fan shroud was modified by a PO to eliminate my hoover bit mounting hole. I have been running for two years with no third mounting point, and I haven't seen any issues yet. I think most of the shroud stability comes from the gen/alt strap and the backing plate held down that way. I'll see what it feels like in comparison on the engine I'm building right now...
Robbie
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