Hello! Log in or Register   |  Help  |  Donate  |  Buy Shirts See all banner ads | Advertise on TheSamba.com  
TheSamba.com
 
73 Thing Brakes overhaul
Page: Previous  1, 2
Forum Index -> Thing/Type 181 Share: Facebook Twitter
Reply to topic
Print View
Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
mkparker
Samba Member


Joined: October 12, 2004
Posts: 332
Location: Sherman, Tx
mkparker is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 5:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Mkparker - interesting technique



Pretty universal technique as far as I can tell, certainly wasn't my creation. I have my theory why it works, but I'm just a shadetree. Maybe someone with real knowledge could verify or supply a better technique.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=592199&highlight=brake+bleeding
_________________
Michael


Pit Boy 6163 Spec Trophy Truck
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
7T3Thing
Samba Member


Joined: March 30, 2014
Posts: 28
Location: Upstate New York
7T3Thing is offline 

PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 7:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure why that would work, but running out of options.
I also note the bleeder is over the line connection point, is that going to cause an issue (on that thread, Beetle guy said he dropped the backing plates off to bleed)?
Is the Tee fitting just a fitting, or is it a valve of some sort? I have the lines routed differently, as the aftermarket one are longer.

Thanks.
_________________
Working with my son on his 1973 Thing
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
mkparker
Samba Member


Joined: October 12, 2004
Posts: 332
Location: Sherman, Tx
mkparker is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

T is just a T.

You want the bleeder at the highest point...that's where air goes. I didn't read the thread I posted completely. I have never seen the brakes bleed well by not having the shoes drag at least some.

With the shoes contacting the drums, you eliminate the wheel cylinder pistons extending and contracting as you are bleeding. Any air in the system has to go to the top and out of the bleeder rather than getting compressed moving the pistons. That's my theory and it cost nothing to try. New (cheap) master cylinders are notorious for not functioning correctly. Not saying that's what you have, just throwing out possibilities. Surely some of the "pros" here have an opinion?
_________________
Michael


Pit Boy 6163 Spec Trophy Truck
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
doublecanister
Samba Member


Joined: September 23, 2008
Posts: 1184
Location: Richmond, Va
doublecanister is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 10:26 am    Post subject: bleeding brakes Reply with quote

Ok, i'll give yall my 2cents on brake bleeding.

if you replaced the entire system or let it all go dry,

1st Bench bleed the master cylender, (if its already in the vehicle you can do it there too> just maybe need longer hoses/Napa has a bench bleed mc kit.

That eliminates air at the M/C

hook it back up into the system.

start at furthest wheel from M/C
say, rear passenger, then go rear driver, front pass, front driver.

Gravity bleed them so you get majority of air out.
then do the pump and bleed a few times on each wheel.

a 1 man brake bleeder works well here too if you're doing this "han solo".

This is the method I've used on every vehicle i've ever worked on and have had good brakes either disc or drum.

heck, on the old 51 ford truck, it's brake system went dry from sitting, I just poured fluid in and bled the system and got brakes back, they weren't the best so I (did the M/C bench bleed method on the vehicle) and it made a big difference.

you can get a Master Cylendar "bench bleed" kit from Napa, it's little screw caps with hoses and it cycles the fluid out of the M/C and back into itself for air elimination.

Also, the making the brake shoes drag prob isn't a bad idea for bleeding, i know for adjusting, spinning the wheel and adjusting the pads, they should drag just a bit, then you should press the brake to center the pads and redo a few times.
You can get a wheel that can test spin ok but can get tight while driving if the pads arent centered good, it throws off the adjustment. prob more prevelent on 'self adjusting drum brakes' than vw but it's what i learned.
(had that happen on my 95 F150 and had to re-ajust the brakes on it).

hey, hope it helps, I'm not a mechanic by trade but been wrenching since 3yr's old!
(first job, I helped my brother put Lakewood traction bars on a 73 Pinto that had N50's with Kragar's on it) LOL Very Happy (it was the 70's!)

T
_________________
****************************************
2020 - Mustang Eco Boost [High Performance]
1973 - Thing
1966 - Mustang GT- Fastback
1951 - Ford F1 pickup Flathead V8
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
citroen
Samba Member


Joined: February 28, 2010
Posts: 1578
Location: louisville ky
citroen is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

just a little advice from the Domeck Brothers, as most people know we have built quite a few things. We always replace all brake components on all the things we restore master cylinder, wheel cylinders, all lines all adjusters, all shoes. We never bench bleed a waste of time. Just adjust the shoes make sure the adjusters are turned the right way the drum will fit with the adjusters installed wrong bleed the fronts first then the rear readjust the brakes bleed all the wheels again and if you do not have a leak you will have a good pedal, and as I said make sure the adjusters are correct I had a vw mechanic that I ask if they were right and he said yes but a low pedal when we checked he had every one backwards installed them correct brake pedal right at the top We have never had a problem doing it this way.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
CarlSpackler
Samba Member


Joined: December 12, 2005
Posts: 665
Location: Mason, Ohio
CarlSpackler is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 10:55 am    Post subject: Re: 73 Thing Brakes overhaul Reply with quote

What are the chances that my '73 Thing has RH threads on both sides? It sure looks that way.
_________________
'67 Micro Bus
'73 Thing
'91 Westy
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
CarlSpackler
Samba Member


Joined: December 12, 2005
Posts: 665
Location: Mason, Ohio
CarlSpackler is offline 

PostPosted: Sun Nov 05, 2017 4:36 pm    Post subject: Re: 73 Thing Brakes overhaul Reply with quote

Never mind. They are.
_________________
'67 Micro Bus
'73 Thing
'91 Westy
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Display posts from previous:   
Reply to topic    Forum Index -> Thing/Type 181 All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page: Previous  1, 2
Page 2 of 2

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

About | Help! | Advertise | Donate | Premium Membership | Privacy/Terms of Use | Contact Us | Site Map
Copyright © 1996-2023, Everett Barnes. All Rights Reserved.
Not affiliated with or sponsored by Volkswagen of America | Forum powered by phpBB
Links to eBay or other vendor sites may be affiliate links where the site receives compensation.