Rebuilt engine smoking after warming up

[longbdr58]

So I finally was able to get my rebuilt type 4 dual carb engine installed with some help from a pretty good VW guy but after the engine warms up it starts to blow out white smoke out of the exhaust. The installer stated it was the old gas I had in the tank, he added a couple of gallons of fresh gas with a little octane booster to help but it is still smoking after warming up. I called the builder and he stated since my engine had bad rings and valves before the rebuild that it is possible there is oil burning off in the exhaust pipe and muffler and that's why it starts smoking after it warms up. I really have not been able to drive it much because its still on non op but the power seems to be weak as well, the guy who helped me install it said that was from the bad gas as well. Anybody experience any of these things? I know valves need to seat also but the smoke seems to be more than just that especially as it warms up.
Thank You

[SGKent]

that is a hard one. Lets say that the engine was tipped on its side for awhile during the time it sat, and the muffler was on it, there could be oil in the exhaust - in which it does take time to burn it off. I doubt old gas would do that unless someone added diesel to the tank. New rings and reworked heads would not pump oil like that.

Turn it off and check the dipstick level. It is possible too much oil was added.

If you want to know for sure you may need to let it cool off and look at the spark plugs to see if one or more is wet with oil. Then you can start wondering why. Do document that you spoke with the engine builder about it and they said to run it as it is and see if it burns off.

[longbdr58]

I know the engine did not set on its side. I will check the oil level and pull the plugs to see if they are wet but will need to wait until morning. The van has been in my garage the whole time so I'm pretty sure diesel was not poured in the tank. The gas was about a year old though, I guess I could drain it and start with 100% fresh gas, the fuel filter is new and looks very clean.
Thank You

[babysnakes]

I just did a ring job on my 1600. I honed the cylinders and used new rings. I am no pro at this. The engine smoked for about 300 miles, then the rings seated and the smoke went away. I went through the recommended ring seating procedure. I am also running Brad Penn oil. Maybe my honing skill are not up to snuff and the oil may be to slippery for good ring break in. No more smoke.

[longbdr58]

Good to know, its been so long since I have a had an air cooled VW engine rebuilt I don't know what to expect

[Wildthings]

How is your brake fluid level at this point? Brake fluid will cause white smoke verses the blue/white smoke of burning oil. Try removing the vacuum line for the brake booster and plugging off the nipple and see if that makes it go away.

Water will also make for white smoke, but this is usually seen during cold or very humid weather and when the engine is still cold.

[longbdr58]

I will check that out, thanks

[Potsie]

So... Did you figure it out? I'm about 150 miles into a new set of pistons and cylinders (on a Beetle though). Mine is smoking while it idles, with a big puff as I take off. I'm trying to figure out if the rings need to seat or if I have other problems. Has yours stopped smoking yet?

[longbdr58]

Well I ruled out old gas because I ran until it died, I know there was some old stuff still in there but I added 5 gallons of high octane, it seems to be running a little better. I know it's not brake fluid because the line was bone dry at both ends, I was a little low on fluid but I just went through the front brakes and did not refill. The smoke seems like it has calmed down a bit though, I cant really drive it right now because it has been on non op and I haven't been to the DMV yet. I have about one hour on the engine driving in the neighborhood and letting it idle at about 2000 rpm for about 5 to 10 minutes at a time. As soon as I get it registered I will take to the builder so he can fine tune it, I think I will readjust the valves myself before taking to him, I would hate to drive the ten miles with the valves too tight. It will be a few weeks though but I will update this forum.
Thanks, Mike

[Potsie]

Thanks for the update, good luck!

[longbdr58]

So last week I decided to check the valves, 1 and 2 were good, when I got to 3 and 4 I found the issues, # 4 intake adjuster had loosened up and the adjuster screw was really loose. I adjusted and closed everything back up and it seemed to have solved all the smoking and low power issues. I have not had a chance to get it over to the shop for a good tune and check up, I'm hoping there is no damage, it seems to run and sound great.
Thanks everyone, Mike

[Potsie]

Thanks for updating. I hope that solves your problem. My smoking problem (new p/c set) has pretty much cleared up too. It now has about 400 miles, including one pretty long drive that had at least 40 minutes between 60-65mph. I have not seen any more smoke at stop lights. It smoked one time idling in the driveway, but that time it took 5-10 min before it started.
_________________
Knows just enough to be dangerous.

[aeromech]

Hi there,
I'm just curious how your 1976 bus passes a smog test with dual carbs?
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound

[merlinj79]

[longbdr58]

I bought a large box of FI parts that I'm going to have looked at to see what else I need to put it back. Car Craft in Riverside CA said they could put it back to FI if I ever wanted to but at what cost?
I will update if that happens.

[aeromech]

[longbdr58]

Yes I figured $1000-1500. If my friend of a friend comes through on the smog I will have two years to gather parts. I was going to try and find a complete FI engine and or late bus that has everything I need and sell of the rest. Whatever I can score.

[aeromech]

Going into the project that's what I figured but I was way off. First, you need to know if it's a FED or Calif. bus. You can get that from the VIN. Have you ever smogged this bus before or is it new to you? What year is it again? Keep in mind that I'm no expert. I relied on several people to guide me. It took me hours and hours of planning and researching parts plus I had to know the right people. I bought an EGR valve for $145 but then had to spend $43 on 5 gaskets that are NLA and I was real lucky to know the right guy who I got them from. The PCV valve is NLA and one guy told me he had to pay $400 to get one from Croatia. I got lucky and a guy GAVE me one.
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound

[Tcash]

You have already said too much. If I worked for BAR and got a hold of one of your Lic. numbers or VIN's from pix. Your friend of a friend would loose his license and possibly be out of a job.
Think about it?

[longbdr58]

Yes I have owned since 93 and got it smog tested when I bought it with all the FI on it. I think around 96 I changed it to dual carbs, I only changed it because I could not find a shop that could fix the problems I was having with it. I had to get it tested a few times this way and they would just pass it, not a big deal back then. I put in non op status in 2000 and was waiting for the 30 year smog year (2006) to roll around but Arnold caved and changed the law to 76 and newer.