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windfish
Samba Member
Joined: September 05, 2012
Posts: 1126
Location: NC
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 Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 5:24 pm Post subject: Patching heater channels |
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Top and sides of the heater channels on my '70 bug aren't too terrible and the pipes that run through 'em are solid (barely any surface rust), bottoms are rusted though. I think the car sat for a long while inbetween owners; previous owner used caulk to 'repair' the rust. So much caulk.
Got a pair of Klokkerholm bottom panels from CIP and they're alright. Reasonable thickness and about the right shape.
They are, however, covered in a thin black paint that I don't think is going to hold up long term (just enough for shipping). Bottom is easy enough to deal with after it's welded up, but I'm curious what should be done about the inside. Once welded I won't really have access.
Got a can of POR15 that I'm using on my floorpans, so that's an option, but I don't know how it'll hold up while welding. Drilled 1/4" holes every 2" that I'm going to plug-weld (good 'nuff?), so I could just go slow and let it cool between holes.
How do other people do this?
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wcfvw69 
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Joined: June 10, 2004
Posts: 13389
Location: Arizona
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| Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 10:30 pm Post subject: |
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Remove the bottom of the heater channel. Most drill out the spot welds. Yea, there's a lot of them. Once it's open, remove as much of the loose rust as you can. There are a lot of rust converters, sealers out there to spray over the rusted areas.
After you drill your holes on the new panels, you can use your POR15 on the side that will go inside. Make sure you follow the directions or it won't stick. On the areas of that panel that your welding on, you can spray a weld thru primer on it.
Once it's all welded up, you can buy then spray a rust preventer into the cavity with a long application hose that some kits have (waxol is one) to help cover all the areas up further. My 69 has a big hole in it where it comes out in the rear fender well. That's where I slid the treatment pipe in to spray the rust preventer.
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windfish
Samba Member
Joined: September 05, 2012
Posts: 1126
Location: NC
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| Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 6:13 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Bill
That's more or less my plan.
Decided against removing the spotwelded lip, just used my angle grinder and cut it clean to the side. A little extra thickness isn't nessisarily a bad thing here, though I did use an air chisel to break all the spot welds on the old floor pan against the tunnel (replacing floor pans as well, that's really what prompted this expedition).
Did a bit more searching, POR15 is good for ~450F (tech sheet) and it self extinguishes, so that's neat.
I picked up a can of Eastwood frame coating with the long nozzle thing, will use that to pick up the spots I missed after its closed up.
So I made some progress today.
Previous condition of the heater channels -
Inside the driver's side
Again, the heat pipe is in excellent shape, main bit of rust is in the inside top rear and the front by the pedal cluster is a bit crappy. Everything else is very decent. tbh, I'd have liked to replace the whole channel but that's not really doable for me at the moment (no garage, only able to work on it in spurts).
Went ahead and sprayed rust converter, it at least looks better.
The patch panels, prepped with two layers of POR15. Left the edges bare for welding purposes.
Oh, and I didn't quite trust the way the nuts were held in. Probably okay, but I had visions of getting it all welded up, going to put the floor pan on and having a nut spin.
This one I didn't quite leave enough space from the paint, but I got to see the POR15 catch fire then self extinguish.
Also replaced the running board nuts while everything was nice and accessible. Most of mine had broken off bolts in them, so I drilled everything out and replaced, 6mm bolts (with 10mm heads) -- consistent with the rest of this car.
My welder (Hobart 140) doesn't have one of those easy spot-weld attachments, so I opted to plug weld. Drilled holes every 2" in the heater channel lip, then welded through those to the patch panel.
Reasonable penetration (?)
So yeah... Driver's side done.
If the weather holds I'll get to the passenger side tomorrow. |
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windfish
Samba Member
Joined: September 05, 2012
Posts: 1126
Location: NC
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| Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 9:21 am Post subject: |
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And she's done. Floor pans (WW) in as well.
Sprayed over the POR15 with 3M undercoating. Also cleaned up the tunnel and gave it a new coat; tunnel's old undercoating was flaking off, but it did a great job protecting the metal.
And Rustoleum truck bedliner on the inside.
One thing I do want to note for those looking to patch the bottom of the heater channels - the Klokkerholm bottom panels are fairly decent, but the front two floorpan nuts don't agree with the WolfsburgWest pans. Had to notch out the two front holes on the pan to accommodate, but not a big deal.
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flyboy161
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Joined: December 26, 2009
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Location: Perry, GA
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wcfvw69
Samba Purist
Joined: June 10, 2004
Posts: 13389
Location: Arizona
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| Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 7:41 am Post subject: |
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Nice job!
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc
Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.
**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours** |
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