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First Air cooled.. 70 Camper.
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khalimadeath
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian wrote:
Means it probably came from a Type 3


So a type three block with single port stuff on it? Does that mean its the 60HP motor?.. im confused now. I was reading through my Chiltons manual and was trying to figure it out.
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madmike
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2014 5:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cliton's manual is better then none at all, But Bently is the shits Cool
U block/case may be a replacement or Type 3 ,big oil gallys is a plus Cool
Anit no 60hp with a single port Laughing
Nice bus,My drum brakes work good enuff,(once adjusted they are better)But I don't drive faster then my angle can fly Laughing and live in BFE ,,only Deer&Elk country to watch for Rolling Eyes Madmike
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

khalimadeath wrote:
Not to thread jack but I am having a similar issue. My 70 Bay has a single port however the engine case has the following engine code (which was not on that list posted ^^)

U0484393


I am in the process of using a U043 case to build a stroker for my bus. (Even older) It will be a dual port 74mm stroke X 88mm bore. It has 10mm studs that were inserted. It has a nice sized oil pick-up (18mm od) I think this one was for a Type 3 as it has the type 3 blank off, I am not sure if it was added later or not but it also has the dip stick tube.
Both our case numbers fall within the early 1971 Type 3 group here: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/serialnumberst3.php But yeah they may also be aftermarket ????? Not sure! Has your case been inserted?
Looks like a fuel injected 54 hp pancake engine case! Those were very nice running engines! Not sure what the difference in case design is for Horse Power probably just the case deck height! Should not matter at all. I plan on building mine for about 90 HP.
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khalimadeath
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pics!

Found the missing tins and ordered them, cleaned up the engine. Lots of maintenance
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Prep
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Paint
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Moving along nicely. Now that the engine is all tidied up I can focus on making it a nice ride (suspension)
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wcfvw69 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 8:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Curious if you pulled the fuel tank panel and checked your fill hose and vent line hoses? I just pulled mine today and found they were original and that's why I have fuel smells with a full tank.
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khalimadeath
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wcfvw69 wrote:
Curious if you pulled the fuel tank panel and checked your fill hose and vent line hoses? I just pulled mine today and found they were original and that's why I have fuel smells with a full tank.


You know I did, and everything looked and smelled in very good shape. No evidence of leaks or damage in the lines or tank. Not a spot of rust anywhere inside of there. At no time of ownership, as of yet, have I smelled gasoline even with a half full tank as it now sits.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Up in smoke... Bus fires... don't let it happen to you!
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

khalimadeath wrote:
wcfvw69 wrote:
Curious if you pulled the fuel tank panel and checked your fill hose and vent line hoses? I just pulled mine today and found they were original and that's why I have fuel smells with a full tank.


You know I did, and everything looked and smelled in very good shape. No evidence of leaks or damage in the lines or tank. Not a spot of rust anywhere inside of there. At no time of ownership, as of yet, have I smelled gasoline even with a half full tank as it now sits.


Did it look like the fuel tank cover had been off before? If not, you can replace the fill hose and the two rubber vent hoses for about $40 dollars. It's a lot of work to yank the engine out if it suddenly starts smelling like gas down the road. If you look at my refresh thread, you can see my bus has the original fuel hose and vent hose and it DOES smell like gas after more than 1/2 of tank of gas. Just a suggestion Smile
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khalimadeath
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wcfvw69 wrote:
khalimadeath wrote:
wcfvw69 wrote:
Curious if you pulled the fuel tank panel and checked your fill hose and vent line hoses? I just pulled mine today and found they were original and that's why I have fuel smells with a full tank.


You know I did, and everything looked and smelled in very good shape. No evidence of leaks or damage in the lines or tank. Not a spot of rust anywhere inside of there. At no time of ownership, as of yet, have I smelled gasoline even with a half full tank as it now sits.


Did it look like the fuel tank cover had been off before? If not, you can replace the fill hose and the two rubber vent hoses for about $40 dollars. It's a lot of work to yank the engine out if it suddenly starts smelling like gas down the road. If you look at my refresh thread, you can see my bus has the original fuel hose and vent hose and it DOES smell like gas after more than 1/2 of tank of gas. Just a suggestion Smile


You know I guess I will pop it off again this weekend to double check, but it has been off before. I didnt have any cloth lines in my engine bay. They were all replaced at some point.
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The tank fill hose 211 201 125 is good to replace for sure! I would also change all the fuel hoses. This 30R6 1/4" ID with inner woven nylon sleeve from CB Performance is excellent but is typically used on aftermarket Carbs like Webers and hose clamps are used. But it's better than the OE bradded fuel line commonly available these days. If your going with the 5mm cloth bradded fuel line which fit's Solex carbs without clamps and is the OEM style just change it every 2 years because it cracks and breaks easier.
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khalimadeath
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok so you guys convinced me to take the cover off. Everything looks fine, BUT now that I am here I will replace whatever you guys want me to. SO what do I need to order? That filler neck is expensive (plus shipping from Canada Yikes!) from that site. Ill try to find it somewhere else. Also I am gonna drain the tank, I already took off the straps. Then what? How do I get it out from there without breaking anything?

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wcfvw69 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 11:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup, you have all the original hoses on that tank. Mine look exactly the same. My cover had never been removed so I know they are the originals.

As far as the hoses go, many have reported that Napa sells a hose that will work for the filler hose. If you search the bay forums, you'll find the part number for the filler hose. The other two vent hoses should not be difficult to find at a local parts house.

I'm removing my tank tomorrow to flush it as well. From what I can see, it looks like you remove the straps, unhook the filler hose, remove the drain valve at the bottom and slide it out. It looks pretty straight forward.
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Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
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**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**
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khalimadeath
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wcfvw69 wrote:
Yup, you have all the original hoses on that tank. Mine look exactly the same. My cover had never been removed so I know they are the originals.

As far as the hoses go, many have reported that Napa sells a hose that will work for the filler hose. If you search the bay forums, you'll find the part number for the filler hose. The other two vent hoses should not be difficult to find at a local parts house.

I'm removing my tank tomorrow to flush it as well. From what I can see, it looks like you remove the straps, unhook the filler hose, remove the drain valve at the bottom and slide it out. It looks pretty straight forward.


So by vent hoses you mean the little guys attached to the hard line looking thing? I guess I will be pulling it Sunday then.
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secretsubmariner
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric at Bughaus may be able to help you with the parts you need.

http://www.bughaus.com/type248.htm

They have a lot of stuff, although I don't know if they have the long big hose that connects right to the tank.

Bughaus has been excellent to work with in my experiences.
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khalimadeath
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

secretsubmariner wrote:
Eric at Bughaus may be able to help you with the parts you need.

http://www.bughaus.com/type248.htm

They have a lot of stuff, although I don't know if they have the long big hose that connects right to the tank.

Bughaus has been excellent to work with in my experiences.


Cool another Bus bookmark for the collection. Basically I open all my bookmarked stores that sell bus stuff and find who has the best price with shipping considering the shipping time as well. J bugs is close to me and gets packages out very quickly. I think Ill be stopping by Napa to try and find these hoses.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the filler hose for our 68 Single Cab we used NAPA 1055 NBH GAS HOSE per Ratwell's recommendation. It was around $25 - you'll need about a foot of it tops. Be sure to clean out the drain tube and breather lines in your gas door compartment while you're doing all this. It's also a great time to put a fuel shut-off under the Bus and then run the filter after it - big plus the next time you have to pull your engine!
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khalimadeath
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bughaus wrote:
On the filler hose for our 68 Single Cab we used NAPA 1055 NBH GAS HOSE per Ratwell's recommendation. It was around $25 - you'll need about a foot of it tops. Be sure to clean out the drain tube and breather lines in your gas door compartment while you're doing all this. It's also a great time to put a fuel shut-off under the Bus and then run the filter after it - big plus the next time you have to pull your engine!


Okay cool good call.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another off-road bus...yes! Very Happy

Look up the off-road mods thread around here Wink
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stuartzickefoose wrote:
Another off-road bus...yes! Very Happy

Look up the off-road mods thread around here Wink


Ha, yea I was checking those out. IDK if I will be lifting it any time soon, however I will be at least putting some big tires on it for the time being.
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

General grabber 27x8.5x14 is a great tire for a basic look upgrade plus stock runable with out having to change things.
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